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Hood vent mod on a 1G

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For best aerodynamic effect you should really mold some sort of lip around the opening to draw the air out of the vents.
 
Please explain how will massive amount of water pouring onto your turbo, exhaust manifold...etc.
About the same thing as being next to a big rig in rain, and taking the splash through the radiator onto the hot bits. It seems like it should matter, but apparently it doesn't. Not like the first Fieros whose hood leaked water onto the drive belts, which seized things when it froze.
I'd want to have some kind of gutter/deflector over electrical parts, but otherwise there shouldn't be an issue. And really, how often are your driving in truly heavy rain?
I know a good puddle will tell you if your harmonic balancer's dying. OMG
 
About the same thing as being next to a big rig in rain, and taking the splash through the radiator onto the hot bits. It seems like it should matter, but apparently it doesn't.
I would have to disagree with you there old timer but I'll leave it alone because I'm not here to "rain" :D on anyone's parade, just pointing out the obvious so reader's can make a well informed decision before hacking their hoods. My opinion is this would be great for a track only car but for a DD, not so good.
 
What about the carbontrix hood vent? It seems like placement is very crucial for these vents because they could potentially be right above the exhaust manifold / turbo like you said. I was looking into a carbontrix vent for later on because my underhood temps were higher than I wanted.
 
When I saw the first pic, I was disgusted. but after seeing all the work you put into finishing it, it really looks well done. Very nice job.
 
I daily my car with the hood. At speed the water stays out, but of course while driving it comes in. Then again in moderate to heavy rain I can't go over about 40mph without fear of hydroplaning.
 
Please explain how will massive amount of water pouring onto your turbo, exhaust manifold...etc. not be a problem, give us the details. Were you actually running so much power on your 420a (massive turbo upgrade with FMIC I would assume) which warrants such mod or is this purely an appearance mod at the expense of other possible issues. OP, how much power are you pushing and what are your thoughts on the questions I've raised?

Not that I have to explain myself to you oldman but my intentions were never to turn my 420A into a track car. Its just my first vehicle bought for 700 bucks, I've never wanted to make it fast. If I wanted a fast dsm i would have started with a gsx and went from there. My car doesn't have to be pushing over 1000 hp in order for me to want the greyforest hood mod.... it actually is functional. I was just stating my opinion which is that it really wont hurt anything (as supported by defiant's observations). So stop getting butthurt old man ... enjoy life... ride around in your dodge cargo van breathe some fresh air
 
You're right, I'm butthurt. ROFL

Defiant's observation is just that, an observation, I was actually hoping to get a serious response from a real user like you who can shed some light on a legitimate concern, I know it's a concern because I've accidentally left my hood open one time on my driveway and personally seen what water and rust can do (electrical system aside). Do you have any prove that the hood is functional "in your case"? What was your underhood temperature before and after?

Lastly, don't knock on my Dodge cargo van, that thing's got balls. :D
 
There used to be a winter picture of a car that had been sitting idle with the greyforestgst hood mod and it had melted snow on the hood behind the vents and nowhere else and you could clearly see the heat rising from the vents.
 
i have better stuff to do than taking my time to test under hood temperatures in my almost stock car. but i know it is functional... how you ask? all i have to do is place my hands over the vents and feel the fans blowing air straight onto the headers and then out of the vents... its quiet nice on a cold day. so yeah it does work in my case... and every other.
 
i have better stuff to do than taking my time to test under hood temperatures in my almost stock car. but i know it is functional... how you ask? all i have to do is place my hands over the vents and feel the fans blowing air straight onto the headers and then out of the vents... its quiet nice on a cold day. so yeah it does work in my case... and every other.
That doesn't mean anything, just because you can feel air coming out of the vents while it's parked doesn't automatic mean it's needed, that it makes a difference in performance nor does it mean the overall flow/ventilation is better. Case in point, removing the weather strip between the hood and firewall has been proven to hurt flow by diverting air from its originally designed path. For you to claim it's functional for you, you must be able to show differences in underhood, intake and coolant temperatures before and after under different driving conditions, parked, cruise and WOT.

I'm not necessarily saying this isn't functional, it can definitely help with a track/street car pushing high HP where underhood, intake and coolant temperature becomes a REAL issue. However, for a stock or near stock car where overheating isn't an issue to begin with, this is simply an appearance mod. There is also nothing wrong with doing it for looks either, unless there is a heavy functional price to pay, that is what I'm trying to get at. Can you imagine what happens when you pour cold water on a glowing red hot turbo or exhaust manifold? What about the alternator? These are all legitimate questions, if you don't care or can't answer them, please move on.
 
i know where you are coming from and it is something to think about because it could harm some parts, but my argument is that it is functional and nobody has posted complaints about water damaging their parts. Just to prove it to you with data results i'll perform the damn experiment on a weekend and take pictures of the thermometer (or whatever heat sensing device i choose) readings in different engine usage periods or driving conditions. i'll definately not be choosing to open my coolant cap to check the coolant temperatures though so i'll save that one for a daring individual. Im a bit busy with school so don't expect this tommorow, plus i will have to wait for my car to cool between every separate data collecting instance in order for there to be the same amount of heating time in every experiment.... so this will take a while.

peace
 
Just as another note on this. My other vehicle is a 94 Toyota truck with a fuel injected 302 from a 94 F-150. I had to cut and raise the hood to clear the truck intake. I drove it for over a year with this setup in the rain and snow. You would be surprised how little rain got in while driving and the vent points straight foward. I agree that it would be a definite concern if a big gulp of water landed directly on your very hot exhaust manifold but as I said I have a custom heat shield covering mine which should redirect a significant amount of water away from it. Here is a pic of the hood on my truck
 

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That doesn't mean anything, just because you can feel air coming out of the vents while it's parked doesn't automatic mean it's needed, that it makes a difference in performance nor does it mean the overall flow/ventilation is better. Case in point, removing the weather strip between the hood and firewall has been proven to hurt flow by diverting air from its originally designed path. For you to claim it's functional for you, you must be able to show differences in underhood, intake and coolant temperatures before and after under different driving conditions, parked, cruise and WOT.

I'm not necessarily saying this isn't functional, it can definitely help with a track/street car pushing high HP where underhood, intake and coolant temperature becomes a REAL issue. However, for a stock or near stock car where overheating isn't an issue to begin with, this is simply an appearance mod. There is also nothing wrong with doing it for looks either, unless there is a heavy functional price to pay, that is what I'm trying to get at. Can you imagine what happens when you pour cold water on a glowing red hot turbo or exhaust manifold? What about the alternator? These are all legitimate questions, if you don't care or can't answer them, please move on.
Again with another note. I relocated my alternator to the rear of the engine with a kit that I built myself because I didnt want to pay $150.00 for one. So that removes another issue. Thanks Travis
 
Just as another note on this. My other vehicle is a 94 Toyota truck with a fuel injected 302 from a 94 F-150. I had to cut and raise the hood to clear the truck intake. I drove it for over a year with this setup in the rain and snow. You would be surprised how little rain got in while driving and the vent points straight foward.

Again, tuft it. You'll probably find that like on the snout intakes on the old Formula Firebird, the air's coming up over the top of the bumper and hood and skipping right over the top of that intake.
 
Since all of you mention water and all othe hazards with vented hoods.How many performance cars are out there with vented hoods from factory? the Mitsubishi Evo 3-9 with no issues, the shelby series 1, the ford GT grantet the engine is in the rear but the radiator is in the front. weather there is a vent or scoop on or in the hood it will work.Also like the op stated he did it for sitting in trafic and not so much for performance.If you want it for performance either buy a hood that has a vent or scoop or do reaserch and make your oem hood vented or scooped. And by the way to the op great work and nice work.
 
you do realize this is a 5 year old thread that you brought back from the dead
 
Yea def not a mod for a DD but I guess a drizzle wouldn't hurt other than that your time and work shows nice man
 
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