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Holset Turbos, for Newbs.

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Morphius

DSM Wiseman
1,895
65
Jun 9, 2003
M-Town, Michigan
The point of this thread is for members that are restricted to this forum to post questions regarding Holset turbos. This will help concentrate info in the newbie section and make it more readily accessible for others down the road. (fewer threads to dig through for info.)

Once you've hit your required minimum to post in other forums, we'd recommend moving to the primary Holset threads for further discussion.
 
Hey guys
i've read the holset results thread and it was curious that i only found like 3 setups on a stock engine. so i was wondering could a 7 blade hx-40 with a bep t3 exhaust housing,A Erl T3 Manifold, some 272 kelfords,Arp headstuds & Hg, & Some Other Supporting Mods Like Fuel Injectors,Pump Etc.) and dsm link,+ My current mods (i know i have to get bigger injectors & afpr + some other stuff) Would the car be able to give 435 to 450whp? This is until i buy a stroker kit & build the engine. Also what is the diference between 7 & 6 blade hx-40? What would the approximate spoolup time with the t3 housing & the kelford "272"'s?
Thanks
 
In the holset results thread, GORBS88 put down 485whp with a boost leak that limited him to 30psi. This was on a lower reading mustang dyno. Stock 1g block (lower compression than your 2g block). smaller bc 272 cams than your kelford 272s. Same turbo and hotside. A dnp tubular manifold instead of the ERL.

You will see about 20psi by around 4500rpms in third gear starting at 2K.
 
In the holset results thread, GORBS88 put down 485whp with a boost leak that limited him to 30psi. This was on a lower reading mustang dyno. Stock 1g block (lower compression than your 2g block). smaller bc 272 cams than your kelford 272s. Same turbo and hotside. A dnp tubular manifold instead of the ERL.

You will see about 20psi by around 4500rpms in third gear starting at 2K.

Thanks for the info dsm-onster. You seem like the guy that has lots of knowledge, so i am going to ask more questions if you don't mind. I've Never seen a bep t3 housing, what are the options for the exhaust outlet, (5 bolt,4 bolt V-band, Mitsu Style) ? Also you seem to miss the other question about what is the diference between a 7 & 6 Blade Hx-40? Are they the same?

Thanks
Bryan
 
I've Never seen a bep t3 housing, what are the options for the exhaust outlet, (5 bolt,4 bolt V-band, Mitsu Style) ?
V-Band only.

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what is the diference between a 7 & 6 Blade Hx-40? Are they the same?
The 7-blade is the newest-tech version of the 6-blade. I believe it's Holset's attempt to bridge the gap between the high-flowing 6-blade HX40 compressor and the 8-blade HX40 compressor which makes slightly more airflow at lower boost levels.
 

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The 60mm inducer (minor diameter) 7blade is a revision to the 60mm 6blade. As far as we know, Holset never even released a new compressor map for the revision. So the flow is likely identical and it's very possible Justin is right about it bridging the gap. The most recent hx40 high flow maps trace out the same as the older maps when holset had the 6blade 60mm as the high flowing option for the hx4* frame.

Beware!!!!! There is also a 6blade 56mm hx40, that can be had in billet as well. Obviously it will flow less than the larger 6blade or 7blade. Debatably in the 60lb/min range, around where the 8blade 58mm standard hx40 compressor flows.

8blade 58mm = 62lb/min
7 or 6blade 60mm = 68lb/min
6blade 56mm = 58-60lb/min (?)
 
V-Band only.

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The 7-blade is the newest-tech version of the 6-blade. I believe it's Holset's attempt to bridge the gap between the high-flowing 6-blade HX40 compressor and the 8-blade HX40 compressor which makes slightly more airflow at lower boost levels.

Damn.. That's A Big Outlet! Is That 4" V-Band :boring:? What Do You Guys Do For Downpipes? :confused:
 

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If I am running oil feed from the OFH and still have stock bottom end with oil squirters and balance shaft, what size oil restrictor should I run in my feed line? .065 or .070
I am running an HE351 holset if this helps
 
If I am running oil feed from the OFH and still have stock bottom end with oil squirters and balance shaft, what size oil restrictor should I run in my feed line? .065 or .070
I am running an HE351 holset if this helps


Are you making your own restrictor? If so, I'd suggest starting with the .065 and installing a cheap oil pressure gage (teeing in near the turbo) and monitor what the pressure is over the operation of your engine. You should refer to post 6 here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/362444-holset-turbos-faq.html

Every person's car is going to be different based on the condition of oil pump and bearings. Newer engine with tighter clearances will likely produce more pressure.
 
Thanks you for this thread!!

I pretty much joined this forum just to learn and become familiar with holset turbos. :thumb:
 
I just got my holset in the mail today! But im a little concerned, I bought it off a cummins forum site from someone who claimed it was a holset hx35. I never got pics but we had a return agreement just incase i wasnt satisfied. Now heres my question, it has no id tag, not even a spot for one to go but it says holset on it. Is it a knock off, and should i be returning it? I can post some pics later if needed.
 
I'm looking for info on mounting the WH1C to the BEP bolt-on housing. All I've been able to find is this:

It has 4 bolts at the housing instead of 6. So you will need to buy 2 more bolts and use 6 washers cut to make a flat side. Honestly, I just used bolts that were cut a little short and the bolt head was wide enough to pull the chra to the turbine housing. No sealing issues. Since the Wh1c is for all practical purposes an 8blade hx35 the spool and flow is the same too.

I'm not really sure what this means. Can anyone elaborate on this? Or link to pictures/how to? I haven't been able to find anything. i'm not familiar with how the turbine housing attaches on the turbo's.

I want to make sure I know everything involved before I get a WH1C. Right now I have 2 offers for $250 shipped for a remaned 8-blade hx35 (with 5k miles claimed) or a WH1C. I might be able to get the WH1C cheaper because he's somewhat local.

Edit: Just found a better picture of a WH1C showing the turbine mounting. If I'm getting this right you use 2 of the stock mounting holes on the WH1C center section, and the remaining 4 are clamped down onto the lip of the flange? Using the washer's as spacer's to help get even loading on the bolt head? That seems really sketchy to me, if that's correct. Guess I'll go with the HX.
 
im so glad yall decided to open this topic up in the newbie forum. Ive read the holset threads but im still confused on what turbo i want to get. Right now i want to bid on a holset h1e.
Exhaust Flange-3.3x2.7
Exhaust Outlet Diameter-4.0"
Turbine Wheel Diameter-2.5" 43.62mm
Compressor Intake Diameter-4.0" / 101.08mm
Compressor Wheel Diameter -2.4" / 61.91mm
Compressor Outlet Diameter -2.5" / 63.73mm

the only problem is the blades are chipped..heres a pic
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do they make replacement blades for this turbo....and if so is it worth buying, i can get it for 75 dollars
my goals for my car are 500hp...i just need to decide on a turbo

i posted the wrong pic sorry

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I'm looking for info on mounting the WH1C to the BEP bolt-on housing. All I've been able to find is this:



I'm not really sure what this means. Can anyone elaborate on this? Or link to pictures/how to? I haven't been able to find anything. i'm not familiar with how the turbine housing attaches on the turbo's.

I want to make sure I know everything involved before I get a WH1C. Right now I have 2 offers for $250 shipped for a remaned 8-blade hx35 (with 5k miles claimed) or a WH1C. I might be able to get the WH1C cheaper because he's somewhat local.

Edit: Just found a better picture of a WH1C showing the turbine mounting. If I'm getting this right you use 2 of the stock mounting holes on the WH1C center section, and the remaining 4 are clamped down onto the lip of the flange? Using the washer's as spacer's to help get even loading on the bolt head? That seems really sketchy to me, if that's correct. Guess I'll go with the HX.


I found that confusing myself. As much as I'd like to help, I've only got Hy's so,I can't speak to this. Maybe other experienced users can offer up some pcis to explain?
 
I'm looking for info on mounting the WH1C to the BEP bolt-on housing. All I've been able to find is this:



I'm not really sure what this means. Can anyone elaborate on this? Or link to pictures/how to? I haven't been able to find anything. i'm not familiar with how the turbine housing attaches on the turbo's.

I want to make sure I know everything involved before I get a WH1C. Right now I have 2 offers for $250 shipped for a remaned 8-blade hx35 (with 5k miles claimed) or a WH1C. I might be able to get the WH1C cheaper because he's somewhat local.

Edit: Just found a better picture of a WH1C showing the turbine mounting. If I'm getting this right you use 2 of the stock mounting holes on the WH1C center section, and the remaining 4 are clamped down onto the lip of the flange? Using the washer's as spacer's to help get even loading on the bolt head? That seems really sketchy to me, if that's correct. Guess I'll go with the HX.

There are 6 bolt holes in the BEP housing, and the stock housing uses 4. Since the plates that have two bolt holes each won't fit the 6-bolt pattern, you use a washer on each bolt instead of those plates. I still just used the 4 bolts and haven't bought two more yet. There's no reason to chicken out on the WH1C just because of two bolts; usually the WH1C's are cheaper than the HX35 even though they're basically the same turbo. I think I'd prefer the V-Band compressor housing the H1C's have over the HX35's clip (I hate those things).
 
The quote was what I said about my turbo. Works like a charm. It's not sketchy :). It clamps the chra to the turbine housing the same as the regular clamps. If you're still not ok with it, you can grab some garrett t3 clamp plates, they are identical in function and bolt pattern to the hx35 clamp plates. You can buy them separately if you hunt around.
 
You're better off finding another used h1e. It will definately support your goal. But you will pay as much for a compressor wheel as you can get a decent h1e turbo. Next time, you need to measure both diameters of the turbine and compressor wheels. We can tell you if it will fit the hx40 bolton turbine housing and what it will flow.

As it stands that compressor wheel, if it is the minor diameter you've measured, is bigger than the famous 60mm hx40 pro wheel capable of 200hp over your goal ;)
 
so i called the g pop shop and they said they can do a rebuild for 395 not including the compressor blade....he said around 100 for the compressor wheel.....so i will have around 600 in a rebuilt h1e...is this worth it? and also since i am replacing the compressor wheel is their ne upgraded wheel that i can use? All i know is the turbo came off a 89 dodge ram
 
I'd keep looking.



well i would but the turbo has been purchased....i know im an idiot but you live u learn i guess. The only good thing is i called a place called USED CHEAP TURBOS | San Diego Rebuilding T3 T4 Turbo Parts and they gave me decent quote for 265 for a rebuild plus 80 dollars for a good used compressor wheel. Si i would now have around 425-450 in a new turbo.....I KNOW....I SHOULD OF LOOKED LONGER LOL :heystupid:
 
Hello,

i now have the holset fitted and slowly giving it some boost. I can say that it is a big turbo and it will wake up, but my initial thoughts are that the boost is coming too late for my taste.

Is there a hotside available with a smaller AR than the 0.70, that also comes with a T3 and V band, same as the one bullseye is offering?

i know about the 0.54AR for the mitsubishi internal wastegate option, but i was wondering if there is one available without the internal wastegate option

thanks
vasilis
 
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