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HKS 264/264 on 2G Review

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I read in SCC or somewhere you should always buy new valve springs and retainers when purchasing new cams as the stock springs won't work with the larger lift. Anyone had any problems with the cams with stock springs and retainers?

Jake
 
I've used 272s on my stock 2g head and valvetrain for the past 20k miles and my compression is still 185 psi across. I rev to around 7300rpm usually. Stock valvetrain should be able to handle up to 8000 rpm w/ cams. You'll be surprised at how good our stock parts are!
 
Would there be any advantages to doing springs and retainers while your at it? Engine safety or performance...
 
If you plan to rev past 8k regularly, I'd say go for it. But not, that money could probably be better spent elsewhere.
 
Originally posted by marksae
Why don't you call a shop and ask?
Well... reason I'm asking here is that I'm kinda weighing my options right now between purchaseing the 264/272 cams and paying for labor, as to just selling my FP Big28 and purchaseing a FP Green or the new FP 2544 which I can install myself. I don't trust my skills enough to mess with anything to do with the timing belt. So that's why I was more or less wanting to know the price of the cam install, plus there are not that many great shops around here where I live.
 
I can't give an estimate from a shop since I did the install myself... but it shouldn't take more than 2, maybe 2.5 hours to do the job for an experienced professional. I'm pretty confident I could get the job done in maybe 1.5 to 2 hours after muddling through it once already. Btw, while the vfaq's all say you need to yank the motor mount, I didn't need to... and I honestly don't see why you would. It may make the job easier, but I couldn't see how. :confused:

If you do it yourself, or take it to a shop, I suggest in advance you make sure you don't need to tap the intake cam for your cam angle sensor. I'm not sure if all HKS cams for our cars don't come threaded for it, but I do know mine didn't, hehe. If there's no threaded hole in the passenger side of the intake cam, then you'll need to tap it. You'll need a 17/64 drill bit and a 8x1.25mm tap. Of course, you may also want a tap handle (or whatever those are called), and a vise to hold the cam while you work. The tapping might take you maybe 15 mins, as it's not the easiest thing to drill into those damned cams... at least not for my cheapy steel bits and hand drill.
 
I had to drill and tap my intake cam also. I took my time and was careful. So that part took me about $45 because you have to drill and tap pretty deep. If I were you, I'd find a local DSMer that's done a cam swap before to help you. If you can do a timing belt, a cam swap is only the next step further. Of course, you should have shop manual, torque wrench, and timing belt tool. If all this is too over your head, then take it to a shop.
 
Just like we were shopping for cams, I suggest shopping around for the right shops. See if they have profesionals. See if the shop has a warrany they can offer you. And listen to what others tell you from experience about a shop. I know too many people that go to ricey ass shops run by a bunch of people that talk In Korean in the next room about how their ripping you off. I know too many of these people that have had their cars f'cked up by these amateurs. It may be worth it to make the special hour long drive to get shit done right.

...Or just learn how to do it yourself or with the help of another DSMer.

Good luck,
Jake
 
Thanks for the info fellas, I really appreciate it. I did notice on RRE's site when looking at there cam prices, they said they would drill and tap the cam for me if I let them know. If not I can probably do it myself since I drilled and tapped my exhaust manifold which wasn't that big of a deal. I was thinking around 2 hours for labor as well. Thanks again!!:thumb:
 
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