High Idle? 1500 rpms

[CarsonNitely]

just took the engine apart, new head gasket and such... now that it's back togather there is a really high idle... don't think i know a lot about these cars =P 1991 Talon TSi AWD

what should i look for, vaccume lines? si there an idle adjustment i can make???

thanks in advance

 

[CarsonNitely]

sorry 2500 rpms

 

[TimDSM]

You may want to expand on exactly what you did. If it was normal before you took apart the engine and is messed up afterwards, it obviously has something to do with what you did while you disassembled the engine.

 

[insaniti]

there is an idle control screw, maybe he messed with that when the engine was apart?? mine was high when I got the car and I lowerred it, but even when its at its lowest at the screw...its still 1200 or so, pretty high for an idle

 

[CarsonNitely]

where is this little screw you speak of?

 

[doodie]

theres a part of the throttle cable that is attached to the intake manifold. Loosen those 2 bolts holding the cable down to the manifold. Loosen the tension of the cable and give it some slack (but not too much that doesn't give you 100% throttle). Now tighten the bolts back up.

 

[KKoepp31]

Ok, hopefully I can provide some more information. I'm the one trying to help him get his car back together, since it's been a nightmare pretty much since the day he bought it.

A little info on the car. When bought the car had only the one fan in front of the turbo. Radiator also looked pretty banged up, but didn't leak. Lots of hack jobs under the hood. Fan wires hacked into, vacuum lines hacked, all sorts of things you could tell had been messed with.

Car was suffering from overheating problems for quite a while. Started roughly a week after he bought it. First instance of overheating also involved driving the car while red hot for a few miles. Apparently was in the country, no where to stop. Car was towed to my place, on first inspection coolant was pouring out of the timing cover. There was also oil sitting on the intake manifold and also all over the transmission. Suspected a blown water pump. Replaced that along with the timing belt. Also replaced the valvecover gasket, oil cap, radiator cap, t-stat. It stopped the leak, car would run fine for roughly an hour in the summer heat and then the temps would creep back up. Once they started to rise there was no way of getting them back down, even coasting to let air pass over the radiator.

Because of him driving the car for some distance while overheating it was supsected that the head could possibly be warped. Started disassembly of the head, popped the head off, found more hack jobs. Surprisingly the head was not stuck onto the block like most said it would be. Leads me to believe this was a "make it run and sell it" car. Pistons are stamped with 63T on them. Not sure if these are 1g or 2g pistons. I'm a WRX guy, so parts for these DSM's aren't my specialty.

The install of the head went rather well. Somewhat time consuming because I wanted to follow the factory manual to a tee considering how shady everything looks under there. I'm fairly certain I have all the vacuum lines running correctly. Could it make a difference though if they are running to the wrong nipples on the throttle body?

Also, may be of importance. The head was taken into a machine shop to be milled. While there they removed the cams, lifters, cam sensors, etc. I wish I had done this so that I would have known it got put back together correctly.

In the end the headgasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust gasket, radiator were replaced. I've already tried adjusted the little screws on the back of the intake manifold. Is there any other way to adjust things?

 

[KKoepp31]

No one has any ideas?

 

[CarsonNitely]

man, that's not cool...

looks like resetting the idle screw is about all we can try?

 

[Mack]

Check O-Ring on BISS, and BISS setting. Is the air sensor plugged in? Is the throttle cable way too tight? Maybe the ISC is stuck in one spot. Maybe a boost leak, but that's stretching it.