The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

help with engine swap (vr4 engine 2g dsm)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

turbo98eclipse

15+ Year Contributor
1,096
15
Jul 27, 2004
northern, New_Jersey
ill try to make this as short as possible--

i recently purchased a 96 gsx which needed a new long block... my friend came across a JDM engine, so i got it for pretty cheap. after looking it over i concluded it wasn't off of a dsm (at first i thought it was off of a 1g 7 bolt dsm due to its turbo td04hl) but judging from the way the intake pipe was shaped and also the coolant necks, it looks like it may be off of a galant vr4... which leads to my actual problem:

i attached a couple of pics--

1) what should i do as far as a coolant fill/cap? the galants had one on their radiator which is why there isnt one where the dsm's have it. change the housing completely or fab one?

2) can i still use the neck which looks like it leads to the lower hose? (thermostat housing)

3) what do i do with the black coolant neck that is sprouting off the top of the turbo? on the galants (see pic) it comes up and heads towards the driver's side and disappears... im not sure where it goes--

thanx for any help!!:pray:

wow-- so apparently the "sprout" on the turbo is for its IC piping... wasnt aware that they we pointed upwards on galants--

any info on questions 1 and 2?

thanx

guess ill post this for reference

looks like i need a usdm thermostat housing (water neck/water inlet... what ever you like to call it) and a new j-pipe

solved my own prob's-- thanx!
 

Attachments

  • coolant question.jpg
    coolant question.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 400
  • ben_vr4_engine.jpg
    ben_vr4_engine.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 7,926
Last edited:
Thats not a vr4 engine. its a Mitsubishi rvr. its also not a 1g 7bolt, its a 2g 7bolt notice there is no cam angle sensor, its blocked off like 95-96 has cam sensor on the intake sprockets like early 2gs. trust me i purchase the same motor.
 
I put the exact motor in my 2G, It came out of a mitsu RVR. I had to do a few things to get it running right. with no check engine lights.

1) J-Pipe for the turbo, I cut the stock T-25 tubing so I could clamp it to the J-Pipe. I got the J-Pipe off Ebay for 50 shipped.

2) Swap the Power steering bracket with the USDM motor bracket, otherwise; good luck trying to get a belt to fit.

3) Swapped the Intake manifold with the USDM one. This is purely to get rid of the CEL. On the USDM model there isn't EGR or a place to mount the MDP sensor. I ran the car for about 5 months with the JDM intake, it seems to run fine. I'm anal about having a CEL though.

4) Swap the thermostat housing with the USDM one. There isn't a filler cap on the RVR motor.

5) I'm not 100% sure on this but I think I swapped alternators; I don't remember why though.

Most of it's just swapping on 2G parts, fairly easy to get everything working though. Good luck, mine runs flawless. I have pictures of it in my profile, if you need any help shoot me a PM.
 
I'm putting one of those JDM RVR motors in a 98 Spyder right now. The crazy thing had plumbing for a top mount IC. Anyways I changed out the steel power steering bracket, but not the cast one on the block. Now the steering belt that was in the box the customer brought me is too big. Is the other bracket wrong too? I can't see how.

I hate basket case cars. Now I have to rewire the CMP plug and switch the primary coil wires.
 
I put the exact motor in my 2G, It came out of a mitsu RVR. I had to do a few things to get it running right. with no check engine lights.

1) J-Pipe for the turbo, I cut the stock T-25 tubing so I could clamp it to the J-Pipe. I got the J-Pipe off Ebay for 50 shipped.

2) Swap the Power steering bracket with the USDM motor bracket, otherwise; good luck trying to get a belt to fit.

3) Swapped the Intake manifold with the USDM one. This is purely to get rid of the CEL. On the USDM model there isn't EGR or a place to mount the MDP sensor. I ran the car for about 5 months with the JDM intake, it seems to run fine. I'm anal about having a CEL though.

4) Swap the thermostat housing with the USDM one. There isn't a filler cap on the RVR motor.

5) I'm not 100% sure on this but I think I swapped alternators; I don't remember why though.

Most of it's just swapping on 2G parts, fairly easy to get everything working though. Good luck, mine runs flawless. I have pictures of it in my profile, if you need any help shoot me a PM.

OMG. I cant believe you didn't swap back on the rvr intake manifold. theres a thread on those manifold and its a cheap upgrade for 2g dsm with us intk manifolds.
 
I'm putting one of those JDM RVR motors in a 98 Spyder right now. The crazy thing had plumbing for a top mount IC. Anyways I changed out the steel power steering bracket, but not the cast one on the block. Now the steering belt that was in the box the customer brought me is too big. Is the other bracket wrong too? I can't see how.

I hate basket case cars. Now I have to rewire the CMP plug and switch the primary coil wires.

Yeah, you have to replace the cast iron bracket too.

OMG. I cant believe you didn't swap back on the rvr intake manifold. theres a thread on those manifold and its a cheap upgrade for 2g dsm with us intk manifolds.

Really? Dang... oh well. I sold the intake for like 65-70 dollars. It wasn't a total loss I guess.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top