Help Taking my Turbo apart.

[VanIsleDSM]

I can't get this plate off the back of my compressor cover:

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RTVed on there, I've tried getting under it on the edge to pry up but it's a no go, also tried from the inside with a rag around a screwdriver and the twist method, after getting it nice and hot with the heatgun, still no budge. Any more force and I'll start to distort the aluminum. Anybody have any suggestions? I'd like to take it off so I can anodize it, and I'm polishing the compressor cover, so I want to be able to clean it all out inside too.

I'm totally stumped, I spent a couple hours today making a jig on my lathe and working a 3 jaw puller with the grinder so I could hook under that plate, and I made a tapered piece of wood to fill the inlet hole so the puller had something to push on.. I then put some serious pressure on the thing while torching the housing.. no luck. I can't really think of anything else I can possibly do.

How would a shop separate these pieces? I'll take it somewhere to have it done if I have to, but I don't really know what more they could do than my little puller jig. I don't see how you could press it off. Damnit! I've never spent this long trying to get something apart.

 

[JusMX141]

This is why I don't RTV a flange-fit compressor cover in place. Not only can the housing not be re-clocked unless the cover is completely removed and cleaned, but most of the time the RTV will weld the cover to the backplate.

Soak it in gasoline, kerosene, or diesel overnight then try again. RTV sealants do not like petroleum fuel products.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Thanks, I'll try soaking it, but I don't know if it'll be able to penetrate at all..

Was like this when I got it, can still be clocked though, when you remove the snap ring you can spin the cover and it'll re-seat on the o-ring wherever you want.

This is quite frustrating.. Because the plate and the cover had no electrical contact, I decided I would clean up the plate while on the compressor cover, and then just maneuver it into my anodizing tank and only the plate would anodize. But after screwing with it trying to get it off.. now there's continuity between the 2 parts so I can't even do that.

 

[JusMX141]

You're lucky because the center housing also attaches with a snap ring....most T3 Garrett backplates mount with four screws, so you'd only have four possible clocking positions if the compressor cover were glued to the backplate.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Well I guess it's just gonna stay in there. I just tried putting conformal coating on the area around the plate, and suspended it in the tank so not much more than the plate was submersed. It's anodizing right now, hopefully it'll turn out alright.

Then a lot of chemicals, compressed air, and water should clean it out well enough I suppose.

What compressor housing is this exactly? .. off topic, but incase you happen to know. It's from an AGP L1R turbo, 2.75" inlet. Can't seem to find any info on it.

Edit: Waste of my time.... wow, a lot of time. Wasn't even a 6/7 series alloy so it turned grey when it anodized and had no affinity for dye. Maybe one day I'll machine a new back plate from 6061, anodize it, and then destroy that one taking out it.. but for now throwing in the towel, it can just be grey.