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HELP! rebuild 7 bolt? or swap another motor?

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boostsickness

10+ Year Contributor
33
0
Mar 15, 2009
mississauga,
So I’m pretty sure the 7 bolt is toast. It started making a loud slapping/clanking noise anytime the rpm’s go above 2000, its not lifter tick, it sounds entirely different and a lot louder. Now it’s making the same loud noise at idle, its struggling and hesitating severely. The timing belt was loose, the sound may be the valves making contact with the pistons? Doesn’t this primarily occur with interference engines if the timing belt breaks or possibly slips?

Given the description, any estimation of the extent of internal damage? The car is undriveable and the engine is going to need a rebuild. My main question is, in my position would it be better to rebuild the 7 bolt? Or swap in another motor, most likely a 6 bolt.

Budget – $3000-3500 (Including labour)

Thanks.
 
im guessing your timing belt jumped on you.

if you tear it down and you can have a nice rebuild with that kinda money. built head, motor, new accessories... the works. if you ca do it yourself. or at least most of it.


first thing though i would do is pull the timing cover turn the crank with a ratchet and see if the marks line up on the cam gears... also check the play of the timing belt..or any wear/damage to it

AS FAR AS SWAPPING A 6 BOLT IN... NO... JUST REBUILD THE 7BOLT....
 
Pull the valve cover off and see if anything is loose.

i would pull the timing belt cover and check to see what you can figure out that way before pulling the valve cover. pulling the valve cover would be a later step to check.:thumb:
 
If your timing did jump, you can most likely get away with just rebuilding the head. Easy to do youself, take off, take to machine shop, install with all new gaskets and timing parts. Do arp headstuds while your at it. Save money for mods.
 
Sorry guys forgot to mention. I took the timing belt cover off as well as the valve cover, The timing belt does have some play in it. When I took the valve cover off I couldn’t see anything that looked unusual. I also had my mechanic look at it. He said I should look into parts for a rebuild. Right now I’m trying to decide whether to spend the money rebuilding the 7 bolt of go a different route.
 
so dump your oil pan and see what it looks like under there... if you need to do anything.... just rebuild the 7 bolt. no need to do a damn 6 bolt swap.

first ya need to figure out what happened before you decide to do anything...
 
Post a pic of how much play there is. I know mine always felt a bit "loose" but I think I am paranoid.
 
So I’m pretty sure the 7 bolt is toast. It started making a loud slapping/clanking noise anytime the rpm’s go above 2000, its not lifter tick, it sounds entirely different and a lot louder. Now it’s making the same loud noise at idle, its struggling and hesitating severely. The timing belt was loose, the sound may be the valves making contact with the pistons? Doesn’t this primarily occur with interference engines if the timing belt breaks or possibly slips?

Given the description, any estimation of the extent of internal damage? The car is undriveable and the engine is going to need a rebuild. My main question is, in my position would it be better to rebuild the 7 bolt? Or swap in another motor, most likely a 6 bolt.

Budget – $3000-3500 (Including labour)

Thanks.

Sounds like a spun bearing to me. drop the oil pan. see if there are any metal shavings in your oil. and then see what you can salvage off your old engine.


Doyle
 
With that budge, I would get a 6bolt. Rebuild 7bolt then it crankwalks, then your back to square one.
 
for 3000-3500 you could have a realy nice set up. but what are your goals for your car? do you want to make BIG power or are you just aiming for a 300hp street car. a stock rebuilt 6 bolt would be a good idea and would be cheaper then a 7 bolt and you wouldent have to worrie too much about crank walk and the 6 bolt head would be an easy swap too because you can still use you 97 CAS
 
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