Help me get ready for the dyno

[jpmxrider489]

So I guess im looking for some guidance. I'm hoping to get my small 16 dyno this weekend. I have no leaks and all sensors are working. Im looking to get to the 300-350 mark I been hoping for. I am on a new set of OEM head studs and new hg. From what I read its all mixed opinions. I'm thinking between 16-20 psi. Im not on any special tune with link. I searched for stuff to help me get my number.

Any tips before I go up there?

Do you guys think ill have lift?

How optainable is my goal?

What psi do you recommend for this goal?

What would I need to do? (set ignition timing or other stuff?)

This is my first dyno run ever. So I just want to know what to look for. Thanks for all the help.

 

[snowborder714]

Make sure to verify:
-boost leak test
-base timing
-base fuel pressure
-good tune
-proper tire pressure

You should have no problem running 20 psi on the small 16g. I have been running mine at 20-25 psi for the past few years on a stock motor.

I think on a good tune, you should be able to obtain 300, but I think 350 is pushing it (but this question is better asked in the bench racing thread ).

 

[jpmxrider489]

Are you on stock head studs as well?

Ill be sure to get my slip and video on here. Im pretty stocked for it.

 

[snowborder714]

Fully stock engine (as far as I know...). The previous owner swapped in a '94 7 bolt, thinking that all 1g's have 6 bolts I don't think I've paid attention to the head bolts when I've had the valve cover off, but I think I would've noticed some ARP's sitting in there.

 

[Leonthefaded]

When you say 20psi on a stock motor do you mean stock internals or no supporting mods?

 

[perks563]

Are you on stock head studs as well?

I just got my car on the dyno about a month ago. Mods are in my profile, but Evo3 16g and supporting mods. I was at 23psi with creep to 26psi, and I put down 304hp/274tq. I originally thought I was gonna hit 350, but a lot of people more wise than myself said that I would be around 300 and they were right.

Also more importantly, my tuner (dacowgod) was very adamant that he didn't like the idea of going more than 20psi on stock head studs. I for one, took his advice and got h11 studs

Make sure you let us know how you did! Videos are always cool.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Stock internals is more than enough for the full ~40+ lbs/min you can squeeze out of a 16G. Head studs would be a good insurance plan.

Unless you are at altitude, at 20psi you will be moving more air than the stock fuel system can support.

 

[jpmxrider489]

I got 1000cc. I have all the supporting mods. All the internals are stock. Does anyone have a video or a good link to get a good tune? I know its all reading and learning. But I'm a hands on visual person. All I really know how to do is the compft on link. It then lets you see what it recommends. Is that enough to get me to 300? It dont sound like im gong to get to 300. Maybe I should reset my goal to 250.

 

[snowborder714]

If you don't have a good tune (leaned out, high timing, etc.), you don't get your initial goal. You can't just load a good tune. I could send you my tune, but our cars are different so it won't be ideal. You either need to spend the time on the dyno to tune the car, or do some street tuning before the dyno.

If you want to come to CBRD at some point, I'd tune the car on the dyno

 

[jpmxrider489]

If you don't have a good tune (leaned out, high timing, etc.), you don't get your initial goal. You can't just load a good tune. I could send you my tune, but our cars are different so it won't be ideal. You either need to spend the time on the dyno to tune the car, or do some street tuning before the dyno.

If you want to come to CBRD at some point, I'd tune the car on the dyno

Where is that?

I know how to give more fuel but just not timing. Ill try to do what I can from now and Saturday . Hopefully this will a good learning experience.

 

[jed344]

Just read up and do some street tuning wont be as good as a tune from a shop on the dyno but will be alright. I am amazed still at how much stronger my car pulls with some timing advance.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Anyone have a good link on timing adjustments? I saw one where he adjusted the CAS on the left of the head but I have the CAS under the cam gear.

 

[snowborder714]

CBRD is in York, PA.

Have you loaded the Evo 8 mod1 timing and fuel tables? If not, that's a good place to start.

 

[jpmxrider489]

The fuel table would be different since it uses 550cc. So I guess I could keep mine. But the timing table might be good to do. How do I get to that? Sorry for all the newb questions.

 

[snowborder714]

The DA fuel table doesn't apply to certain sized injectors. It's a generic table that is counting on your airflow being dialed in correctly. If it is, then whatever values in your DA fuel table are present at the certain load/RPM combo, it will make the car do that.

It sounds like you have a lot of reading to do as far as tuning. Or find someone local who knows tuning and work with them.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Sounds like ill do some reading. Any good links you recommend? So do you think taking the car now to get dynod is a bad choice? What hp goal is realistic at this moment?

 

[snowborder714]

Again, keep the bench racing to the proper thread.

I personally see the dyno as a tool for fine tuning, not for initial tuning. Some people only tune on the dyno as it's safer and legal. I don't see the use in going to the dyno now without any tune unless you want to get an initial reading before you actually tune it.

 

[JwpRider]

I would at least check your head bolt torque is set or upgrade to ARP's. Get a hold of Ricky (Dacowgod), he does Link tuning. He is the local expert and has tuned many DSM's. He may be able to set you up with a 'remote tuning package'...(or if you are switching to SD, he could get link dialed in)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/freelancer-products-services-10/remote-tuning-troubleshooting-22865/

 

[boost97gst]

Like sno said, load the DA tables from the evo 8 mod1. Just copy and paste. Make sure your wb agrees with your afrest, and try to do the same with your boost guage and boostest. If you see knock, review the log, track it in the timing table and find the cell you knocked in. If you arent lean there, then back timing off a degree or two then try again and see if knock is gone. Its kind of trial and error from the way i understand it. But that mod1 table has a bit more aggressive timing and not a pig ass rich fuel table . You will like it bro.
And, good luck on dyno, cant wait to see results.
Btw, how arent you running extremely rich right now under boost? Or are you? Are you just using the fuel sliders?

 

[snowborder714]

Here's what I'd suggest in the immediate future.

1. Make sure your idle is dialed in.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

2. Make sure your cruise is dialed in. This requires cruising at a steady pace on the highway and adjusting the MAF Comp sliders (assuming you're on a MAS). Use CombinedFT and WBFactor to help get it dialed in.

3. Make a 3rd gear WOT pull from 2k to redline. Evaluate the wideband and use WBFactor to adjust the MAF Comp sliders for each Hz level to get it to line up to the AFRatioEst values. When it does, you should be able to track datalog in DA MaxOct and see your fuel table line up exactly to those 2 lines.

If you need log help, please post up in the correct forum.

 

[Pipnorcali]

Toss in some ngk's and some good gas and you might hit 300 with 20psi