1G HELP! fresh motor PROBLEMS

[chuckd]

hey guys hows it goin?

anyways. i have a fresh rebuilt 1ga tsi awd auto

it has
balance shaft elim kit
solid tensioner
450 injectors
2g maf
big 16g turbo
stock fuel rail (auto)
stock fuel pump (as far as i know)
90 tsi manual computer.. (as far as i know) came out of a donor car but its been replaced before. (6 and 14 were swapped)


anyways..
fresh rebuild.. has a rough time starting and runs rich.. then when it does start it heats up preety quickly.. well the exhaust manifold at least..

runs ungodly slow until boost builds and even with the wastegate not hooked up it wont boost above 9 psi.. (please help ) also exhaust mani gets red hot ..


second problem
coolant temp doesnt work on dash and upper radiator hose is hot has hell and hard.. even with thermostat out of the housing.. didnt check the lower hose..
i have approx 10 miles on this car..
varying rpm and bringing it up to around 5 grand and lettin it motor brake down and such..
but its just so darn sluggish till boost hits and even then it wont boost over 9psi..

third problem..
gets weak spark in 1 and three( 1 nearest pullys. )

timing is set exactly where my buddys is and his car ran fine!!

 

[boostinout]

hey guys hows it goin?

anyways. i have a fresh rebuilt 1ga tsi awd auto

it has
balance shaft elim kit
solid tensioner
450 injectors
2g maf
big 16g turbo
stock fuel rail (auto)
stock fuel pump (as far as i know)
90 tsi manual computer.. (as far as i know) came out of a donor car but its been replaced before. (6 and 14 were swapped)


anyways..
fresh rebuild.. has a rough time starting and runs rich.. then when it does start it heats up preety quickly.. well the exhaust manifold at least..

runs ungodly slow until boost builds and even with the wastegate not hooked up it wont boost above 9 psi.. (please help ) also exhaust mani gets red hot ..


second problem
coolant temp doesnt work on dash and upper radiator hose is hot has hell and hard.. even with thermostat out of the housing.. didnt check the lower hose..
i have approx 10 miles on this car..
varying rpm and bringing it up to around 5 grand and lettin it motor brake down and such..
but its just so darn sluggish till boost hits and even then it wont boost over 9psi..

third problem..
gets weak spark in 1 and three( 1 nearest pullys. )

timing is set exactly where my buddys is and his car ran fine!!

Sounds like your way advance on your timming. use a timming light and ground the wire on the fire wall for for the cas.as for it cranking make sure that your engine temp sensor is hook up so your ecu knows what temp the car is.

 

[chuckd]

so if the timing is too far advanced it will cause it to run like garbage and run rich ?
it will also cause the turbo to not boost past 9 psi ?


the wire is hooked up.. but if the sensor is good or not thats a crapshoot..
like i said the temp guage doesnt work in the car..

 

[boosteclipse]

Not real familiar w/ 1g, but do you not need some kind of tuning device to run a 2g maf?

 

[chuckd]

i dont belive so.. and it was doin this with a 1g maf

my buddy ran it for over a year with no problems..
and you should see his motor we just tore down.. its a freakin miracle..
over 300k .. 25-28 psi every day for the last 2000 miles beat to hell stock injectors stock exhaust.. 16g turbo.

engine has no ridge.. bearings still look awesome.. stock mitsu internals.. never rebuilt.

 

[boostinout]

Not real familiar w/ 1g, but do you not need some kind of tuning device to run a 2g maf?

I really dont know i only run gm maf and translator. seems like you would have to have your ecu chiped for the injector size.

 

[chuckd]

im using supposedly a d 90 5 speed ecu which is used with 450s.. which is what is in this car..

i have a feeling due to the auto fpr (higher pressure) is causing him to run super rich..

 

[donniekak]

You are running rich, and you need to set base timing, sounds like it is very retarded.

 

[chuckd]

ok.. theres like a few wires that i can ground. what one is it ?

also where shoudl the timing be at on the timing tab on the timing cover.. i see a 10.. should it be just before that.. or after it. ?

 

[boostinout]

You are running rich, and you need to set base timing, sounds like it is very retarded.

Ok on the passenger side fire wall theres one wire under the wiper motor or in that area. look on your hood it should say I think its 10 or 5 degrees btdc @750 rpm

 

[JusMX141]

also where shoudl the timing be at on the timing tab on the timing cover.. i see a 10.. should it be just before that.. or after it. ?

You didn't rebuild the engine yourself by chance, did you?

 

[chuckd]

why yes i did and i did everything by the books.. with a dsm head overlooking my shoulder..

the timing marks on my cover are all hacked up and i cant make out what they say except for 10.

so yeah..

 

[Incoltnito]

I'm curious if your coolant temp sensor doesn't work and is telling the ecu it's like -50 degrees, causing it to dump fuel like crazy. Is it your dash temp gauge that doesn't work or actually the coolant temp sensor?

 

[chuckd]

i dont know i will throw a ohm meter on it tommorow and find out.

until i put my ecu in it did flood all the cylinders pretty darn well..

 

[ziggo0]

One of the worse things you can do right now is run the engine. Washing cylinder walls with fuel on a new build that needs the rings broken in is horrible for it.

 

[chuckd]

thats why we are trying to get this sorted out..

 

[LunarEclips]

I'm curious if your coolant temp sensor doesn't work and is telling the ecu it's like -50 degrees, causing it to dump fuel like crazy. Is it your dash temp gauge that doesn't work or actually the coolant temp sensor?

bingo.... check coolant sensor....its throwing off timing....check this!!

 

[Incoltnito]

As far as your timing mark question, I noticed no one gave you an answer. My motor is virtually identical to yours, so I believe this is accurate.

You should set the base timing at 5 degrees BTDC....just to start, you can play with it later. I'm not aware of a DSM engine bay too much, but my car's wiring is the equivalent to a 90' DSM, so it should be close to same area for you. You should be able to spot it on the firewall along with the main wiring plume. It has a red/yellow (one) wire leading to the connector....that's what you ground out to set timing. You probably already knew that......so to answer your question finally about the timing marks.

Where you see the 10 on the timing cover is 10 degrees BTDC. Move the timing mark towards the firewall....eyeball that sucker close to 5 degrees. If you have it set past the 10 mark towards the radiator, then you'll be running obviously closer to 15 or more degrees BTDC. Besides the bad gas that was in my tank when I first got her running, the timing was way off and the car fell on it's face.

 

[BrokenTsi]

When I did a fresh build of my engine, I didnt set the base timing. I just put it in the middle and fired it up. I was more worried about checking to make sure if the damn thing starts.

When I went for my first drive, it ran like crap. No power, hardly any boost.....I backed off the CAS and it was a whole new car. Then I set the timing.

The temp gauge on the dash will not affect anything. Its just a gauge, it has no influence on the ECU. However, the coolant temp sensor will make it run like garbage, if it even starts at all.

The symptoms of a coolant temp sensor is usually rich running conditions followed by hard starting/idling. When mine went bad one day, the car wouldnt even start at all when the engine was cold.

 

[JusMX141]

why yes i did and i did everything by the books.. with a dsm head overlooking my shoulder..

The same books should tell you where the connector is that you'll need to ground in order to set your base timing...

....and the "DSM head" that was peering over your shoulder should already know that setting the timing using the cam gears is MUCH easier and more accurate than the crank pulley which can give a bad reading if the rubber is blown out.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

 

[chuckd]

The same books should tell you where the connector is that you'll need to ground in order to set your base timing...

....and the "DSM head" that was peering over your shoulder should already know that setting the timing using the cam gears is MUCH easier and more accurate than the crank pulley which can give a bad reading if the rubber is blown out.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-timing-without-using-lower-timing-cover.html

ok.. i appreciate the answer but i dont need the freakin attitude no need for it.

When I did a fresh build of my engine, I didnt set the base timing. I just put it in the middle and fired it up. I was more worried about checking to make sure if the damn thing starts.

When I went for my first drive, it ran like crap. No power, hardly any boost.....I backed off the CAS and it was a whole new car. Then I set the timing.

The temp gauge on the dash will not affect anything. Its just a gauge, it has no influence on the ECU. However, the coolant temp sensor will make it run like garbage, if it even starts at all.

The symptoms of a coolant temp sensor is usually rich running conditions followed by hard starting/idling. When mine went bad one day, the car wouldnt even start at all when the engine was cold.

thanks for the tips and yeaah it has a real hard time firing cold. and if you even touch the throttle it wants to die out.. but then recovers.

 

[JusMX141]

ok.. i appreciate the answer but i dont need the freakin attitude no need for it.

All you need to know about setting base timing is here. You can use the link I posted above if you have access to an adjustable timing light as an easier alternative. If you cannot borrow one, there are new ones on eBay for around $35 shipped; Sears wants $65-70 for a good one.

Set your base timing using a light...the "eyeball" method isn't effective. If all sensors were created equal Mitsubishi would've put the timing marks on the cam angle sensor itself.

Once your base timing is set, you need to figure out why your coolant temp is not registering. Either the sensor is bad, or the wires are cut / broken. If the ECU has no idea what the coolant temp is, it will default to a rich setting to protect the engine from going lean.

Your weak spark could be the result of a weak coil or bad wires. Check the resistance of the coil and the wires using an ohmmeter.


I don't sense an attitude in the least. You saying I have an attitude is like me saying "I liked reading your original post in this thread, but I didn't appreciate your stupidity".

All I did was state that I think I'm in the same boat as many others who are wondering how you rebuilt your own engine but haven't figured out something as simple as setting base timing after the rebuild.

Sorry that you didn't take kindly to my advice. I'll just keep to myself or help others the next time you're in need.

 

[chuckd]

you cant honestly sit there and tell me that you didnt have an attitude about any of it..

anyways..

upon further inspection.
coolant temp sensor plug(ecu).. wire is ripped halfway down the lead.. and the engine temp guage isnt even hooked up.. broken wire..

going to fix and report back..

the plug wires are brand new. ngks.. i am gonna swap both coils out for a new set. just to be safe..

 

[steve]

Sorry that you didn't take kindly to my advice. I'll just keep to myself or help others the next time you're in need.

And depending on how you continue to reply so will others watching the thread.

 

[4g6350trim]

im sorry yall but i gota question about my head bolt size. its a star like 35 i believe. is there anyone who knows the right size? buscher stage 1 6 bolt with 2g head