1G HELP! fresh motor PROBLEMS

[chuckd]

hey guys hows it goin?

anyways. i have a fresh rebuilt 1ga tsi awd auto

it has
balance shaft elim kit
solid tensioner
450 injectors
2g maf
big 16g turbo
stock fuel rail (auto)
stock fuel pump (as far as i know)
90 tsi manual computer.. (as far as i know) came out of a donor car but its been replaced before. (6 and 14 were swapped)


anyways..
fresh rebuild.. has a rough time starting and runs rich.. then when it does start it heats up preety quickly.. well the exhaust manifold at least..

runs ungodly slow until boost builds and even with the wastegate not hooked up it wont boost above 9 psi.. (please help ) also exhaust mani gets red hot ..


second problem
coolant temp doesnt work on dash and upper radiator hose is hot has hell and hard.. even with thermostat out of the housing.. didnt check the lower hose..
i have approx 10 miles on this car..
varying rpm and bringing it up to around 5 grand and lettin it motor brake down and such..
but its just so darn sluggish till boost hits and even then it wont boost over 9psi..

third problem..
gets weak spark in 1 and three( 1 nearest pullys. )

timing is set exactly where my buddys is and his car ran fine!!

 

[chuckd]

seriously.. edit your post it doesnt belong here..

and sorry if i made anyone mad.. but i wasnt in the mood for sarcasm when i posted these questions.

 

[steve]

but i wasnt in the mood for sarcasm when i posted these questions.

Perhaps then you shouldn't have been a smart ass in your first reply to Justin.

If you want credibility then the correct response should have been the simple "timing marks on my cover are all hacked up and i cant make out what they say"

Perhaps you missed this when you read the site rules you agreed to.

5. DSM Wisemen:
Those who have the DSM Wiseman title are members of the DSM community who have been around the block and are knowledgeable in various areas of DSM performance and they typically go above and beyond when helping others on our site. They are considered the resident experts in the subjects they offer help in. They represent what this site is all about. They are to be treated with respect, as they've earned it with their contributions to the site and to the DSM community in general. Debate is fine, but insulting a Wiseman will not be tolerated. If you have a problem with a Wisemans' post, Report the post to a Moderator. Do not get into a pissing match with them publicly. They volunteer their time to help inexperienced members on our site and will not be hassled or subjected to ridicule by members who have made fewer contributions to the site than they have.

/Rant

 

[chuckd]

i wasnt being a smart ass.. when i first replied to justin so im sorry if i came off that way.

 

[Lavery]

All you need to know about setting base timing is here. You can use the link I posted above if you have access to an adjustable timing light as an easier alternative. If you cannot borrow one, there are new ones on eBay for around $35 shipped; Sears wants $65-70 for a good one.

Set your base timing using a light...the "eyeball" method isn't effective. If all sensors were created equal Mitsubishi would've put the timing marks on the cam angle sensor itself.

Once your base timing is set, you need to figure out why your coolant temp is not registering. Either the sensor is bad, or the wires are cut / broken. If the ECU has no idea what the coolant temp is, it will default to a rich setting to protect the engine from going lean.

Your weak spark could be the result of a weak coil or bad wires. Check the resistance of the coil and the wires using an ohmmeter.


I don't sense an attitude in the least. You saying I have an attitude is like me saying "I liked reading your original post in this thread, but I didn't appreciate your stupidity".

All I did was state that I think I'm in the same boat as many others who are wondering how you rebuilt your own engine but haven't figured out something as simple as setting base timing after the rebuild.

Sorry that you didn't take kindly to my advice. I'll just keep to myself or help others the next time you're in need.

Arnt the DsmWise men supposed to be the more professional posters? Last time i checked this wasnt DsmTalk

 

[4g6350trim]

im new to this so chill.. mabye some help would be nice instead of your constructive critisim

 

[snowborder714]

Arnt the DsmWise men supposed to be the more professional posters? Last time i checked this wasnt DsmTalk

If you don't like a post, report it. Someone will take a look at it and see if someone was in the wrong. As far as this thread, I don't really see anything horrible that's been said. I would also question how someone can rebuild an engine yet not know how to time it. Just some people portray their thoughts differently than others. And you can interpret typed words in many different ways on the internet.


chuckd - Please try to use proper posting from now on. Proper spelling, punctuation, capitalization, grammar, etc. would be very helpful and much appreciated.

 

[chuckd]

what about mr threadjacker? thats worse than bad grammar.

back to the subject at hand..

hey guys hows it goin?

anyways. i have a fresh rebuilt 1ga tsi awd auto

it has
balance shaft elim kit
solid tensioner
450 injectors
2g maf
big 16g turbo
stock fuel rail (auto)
stock fuel pump (as far as i know)
90 tsi manual computer.. (as far as i know) came out of a donor car but its been replaced before. (6 and 14 were swapped)


anyways..
fresh rebuild.. has a rough time starting and runs rich.. then when it does start it heats up preety quickly.. well the exhaust manifold at least..

runs ungodly slow until boost builds and even with the wastegate not hooked up it wont boost above 9 psi.. (please help ) also exhaust mani gets red hot ..


second problem
coolant temp doesnt work on dash and upper radiator hose is hot has hell and hard.. even with thermostat out of the housing.. didnt check the lower hose..
i have approx 10 miles on this car..
varying rpm and bringing it up to around 5 grand and lettin it motor brake down and such..
but its just so darn sluggish till boost hits and even then it wont boost over 9psi..

third problem..
gets weak spark in 1 and three( 1 nearest pullys. )

 

[JusMX141]

back to the subject at hand..

What's left to discuss?

Set your base timing, fix the harness on the coolant temp sensor and / or replace the sensor, and post back here with your results.

 

[chuckd]

did all that..

i set the timing to 8 degrees. and hardwired in all the sensors. (had too due to bad connectors)
changed coil packs.
cranked the boost controller and it still is sluggish (not as bad though) and wont boost above 9psi.

 

[EclipticalGS]

Boost leak

 

[chuckd]

having a strange feeling that the exhaust is clogged.. goin to pull it and take it for a test run..

 

[92AWDHX40]

Trial and error, go from there.

 

[chuckd]

ok guys.. changed nothing and pulled the exhaust.. and she pulled 25 psi.. and was SLIGHTLY peppier down low. but i think its cause of the rich condiditon and the rings arent seated yet..

gonna be swapping in a manual fuel rail tommorow (less fuel pressure) and hooking up a narrowband air fuel ratio guage.. i know it isnt the most accurate thing in the world but it will give us a general idea of whats going on.

 

[steve]

i have a fresh rebuilt 1ga tsi awd auto, it has:
450 injectors
2g maf
big 16g turbo
stock fuel rail (auto)
90 tsi manual computer (as far as i know) came out of a donor car but its been replaced before. (6 and 14 were swapped)

What year car is it? There weren't any 1990 model year turbo automatics.

Which ECU exactly (MDXXXXXX)? Does the number on the edge connector match the last 4 digits of the E2T number on the case?

A 2G MAF outputs a 20-30% lower airflow signal than the 1G MAF. This will cause you to run leaner.

Are you sure of the fuel pressure, the fuel rails within the model year are the same auto and manual but the regulator is different. The higher pressure regulator from the auto is going to cause the 450s to flow more than what either the turbo automatic or manual ECU are programed for but it's not enough or matched to counteract the changes cause by the MAF swap.

Now that the car is making some boost you need to watch what you run. The stock pump and injectors can't support much more than 12-14 psi boost from a B16G before they max out and your AFR drops.

Without a logger it's going to be hard to tell if your knocking. If you have a loptop you might want to spend your money on making a cable to log the car over a narrowband O2 gauge. You can make the converter cable from the ECU to quasi RS232 but you may need to buy a qualified USB to serial port if you computer doesn't have a DB-9 serial port.

 

[chuckd]

thanks for the informative reply.

this is my freinds car its a 91..
i snagged the computer out of my 90 manual awd. but there are two different years scribed on it (90 and 91) so i dont know which to belive.
i swapped the wires suspecting it was a 90 and the tach works fine..

i realize the fuel rails are the same but the fpr are different. so i am gonna swap in the manual one.
since it still bogs real bad down low. if it quits boggin down low after the swap i know my fuel pressure was too high causing the car to run rich.

 

[steve]

At this point knowing exactly which ECU is required. When you get the chance, get the numbers off the case and off the edge connector which will require you to remove the top cover. While your at it, pictures of the board would be a good idea.

The combination of ECU, MAF, injectors and fuel pressure are going to make a difference in how the car runs. Setting the CAS to 5* BTDC can make the difference between the engine knocking and not. The three degrees may not seem like much but the lower airflow values from the MAF are already going to cause the car to be lean and use more aggressive spots in the timing maps because the ECU doesn't think the engine load is as high as it really is.

 

[chuckd]

thanks again steve.. learning as i go along..

ok so i will set the base timing back to 5 degrees.. and i will get pics of the computer and board..

thanks again.

ok the numbers on the supposed 90 manual tsi are as follows md145903 and e2t34478 and little numbers 9414 the numbers on the connecter edge match the last 4 on the case.. and heres a pic.

the stock one that was in the 91 the stickers for the warrenty are still intact..

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[steve]

That is a 1990 Federal MT AWD EPROM ECU. At lease one of the capacitor has been replaced but I can't see if there was any damage. As you though pins 6 and 14 would need to be swapped on a 91+.

 

[chuckd]

thanks for confirming it..

what exactly does the board on the right of the capacitor do? the single board by itself..

 

[steve]

It has two functions. On the back side are five thin film 1k resistors used in by the solenoid and ISC driver chips. On the front is the circuit to monitor the input from the ignition switch and turn the MPI relay on and off to power up the ECU and half the engine bay. On a 90 ECU you'll notice that the top part of the front side of the board is unused and only the resistors on the back are in that space.

These hybrid IC are made from a ceramic and are very brittle.

 

[chuckd]

well i exposed the traces and solder bridged them.. i then exposed the traces further up above the solder bridge and checked it there and at the pin where its soldered to the main board. with a continuity tester and well it has continuity.. so im gonna cover it in some sort of epoxy and call it a day.. see if she will run. although it did before i discovered this.. but see if its any better.