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fresh built motor problem

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freeman 188

15+ Year Contributor
211
0
Mar 6, 2007
medicine hat, AB, Canada
brand new engine out of machine shop heating up while driving on highway , weisco pistons ,eagle rods, acl bearing ,fully built head resurfaced so is the block . here is what has been done to solve problem ,changed water pump ,changed several thermostats ,changed rad ,fans work , everything in cooling system has been checked several times . compression is cyl 1,150psi ,cyl 2 ,145psi ,cyl 3,150psi ,cyl 4,150 psi . I just performed a leak down test and cyl 2 is leaking air through the valve cover and is at 38percent on the tester . the other 3 cylinders are fine . what could be the problem , oh and a cometic head gasket and arp studs . :mad: and the turbo is getting really hot that it turns red something I never noticed before oniy under heavy loads .
 
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Umm what does your afr say , to rich or to lean can cause excessive heat . when the block and head were done did the dip and check passages for correct coolant flow maybe . past that more info as far as afr for starters please
 
Head studs torqued down to 90 ft/lbs? It's not burning coolant is it? Yes, incorrect of air/fuel can do it too.
 
Is there anything blocking airflow to the radiator? FMIC? I have seen mud clogging the fins of an FMIC which in turn blocks flow to the radiator.
 
I talked to my Brother and .... what engine management ,fuel map, injectors , turbo and exhaust are you using ? also a bad ingnition timing might have an affect .. jus some other things to think about . hope we can help as well as the seniors here :thumb:
 
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check my profile and you will see what I have as for management , my afr is 14.6 at idle and 11.6 at wot which is good ,my spark plugs are burning tan brown , I pulled the head off to look for and cylinder damage and all is good ,head is going back to machine shop in the morning to be pressure tested again . I am going to get my machinst to come to my garage to check the deck height again also . my head studs are torqued to 90lb .
 
When you put the engine back in the car, did you burp the coolant system? I had the same problems until I burped the system. To burp the system, take your radiator cap off (top of thermostat housing) and let car heat up to operating temperature. Use a tall funnel and keep the funnel half full and let the coolant cycle a couple of times. You should see the coolant flow when the thermostat opens. Good luck.
 
I have done that to ,had block rechecked and it is good ,head is at machine shop now , they checked for warpage and it is good also they are going to pressure test it within the hour , so I will know more . the frost plug with the temperature tab on it has melted off from the head which indicates it got hot . I only let it go up to 106 degrees cecliousor 223 fahrenjeit then shut it down .
 
head came back in perfect condition . I did the timing 2 times now as that what I tought it was also ,but it is set at 3 degrees . the fans are stock ,stock rad ,and 160 degree t stat . I had a 192 in there first . the one thing I am going to change is the ecu to see if there is an issue with it . maybe it is doing something with the timing curves . the ecu is stock also ,as none of my after market parts are on this car until it is broken in . only turbo and intercooler and exhaust . is it possible my 3" flex pipe has collappsed .
 
is your water pump operating correctly? also you might want to check to see how easily water flows from the top of the radiator to the bottom. possibly some sort of block. how long does the car have to idle from a cold start untill it gets hot like this?
 
it doesnt heat up at idle only where it should be it starts to heat up while driving at normal speed on the highway .what do you suggest for cooling up grades besides aluminum rad . I almost got it back together ,will see how it runs tommorrow .
 
if you upgrade the cooling system im not sure it will fix the problem, may help but probly wont fix it. we need to figure out exactly what the problem is. sounds to me if it does not over heat at idle but does at a higher engine rpm, the suggestions earlier about timing and such or running to lean may be a possibility.
 
Good luck with the car bro, is your thermostat new? When my thermostat was bad the car overheated while I drove then changed it to a gates racing thermostat n now it drives with no problems
 
When you set your timing did put put it in limp mode by grounding the ecu wire? If you did not and your computer is advancing your timing, then you set it at 3, that would put your base timing really retared and could be causing your manifold to glow. Shouldnt cause your car to overheat though.
 
no I did ground the ecu while I put it on timing , going to try it today to see if anything has changed ,I sprayed copper coat on the cometic gasket this time around .
 
problem fixed , cop setup went bad ,my timing went out of wack ,decressed it so bad it didnt even read timing marks. went back to stock setup and everthing was good ,thank god ,LOL
 
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