Headstuds Retorque Question

[stevetalon]

So I have my valve cover off right now and i want to retorque my 6 bolt stock headstuds. I have been pushing coolant lately at like 10-19 psi and i think my solid welded motor mounts are to blame. What should I torque them down to and is the socket i need a 10mm allen socket? Thanks

 

[red_devil]

You shouldn't re torque the stock head bolts.

 

[stevetalon]

why not if they might have been vibrated loose

 

[Boomdeeze]

If your leaking coolant, wouldn't you rather just get a new HG and some new studs or just upgrade to ARP's? Instead of trying to re torque the stocks and possibly breaking one

 

[stevetalon]

Well I have a felpro composite headgasket and brand new arp headstuds just don't want to do a headgasket. I have a 5 layer metal one on right now and its seen the same boost and didn't push any coolant. Can I get away with installing the arp headstuds and see if it stops?

 

[red_devil]

It is not recommended to re torque them since they can strech and were properly torqued from the factory. Ive never heard any one complain about them coming loose with solid motor mounts.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Well you can always do it but wouldn't you rather just put the new HG on since you already have it? Might be a little more work but then you will know your HG isn't bad

 

[pboglio]

You could try and retorque them. If your pushing coolant starting at 10 psi, either they are completely loose, or the headgasket is blown.

 

[stevetalon]

Ok well i'll just wait to put the arps on when i put the composite headgasket on. So before I put my valve cover on should I check the torque on each at about 75lbs?

 

[haswesley]

I may still be a newbie here, but I have a lot of experience with my '93 Talon TSI and engine rebuilding in general. I have a 6 bolt swap in my car with ARP studs and many, many other upgrades. So, 75lbs. is a good, rough estimate for factory headbolts since they are "torque-to-yield." But, you can install the new ARP studs now, if you want to. I would start by torquing the factory bolts down first. Change the ARP studs one at a time. Remember to put the lube on the ARP stud threads and the nuts before torquing. This ensures you've torqued them down correctly without excessive friction from the nuts causing your torque wrench to read higher torque than you actually have. Hope this helps.

 

[stevetalon]

Ok man thanks i'm just going to put the arp's in one by one and see if it helps. People have told me that you can install arp's with the head on one by one and others tell me no don't do it so i guess i'll try it.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

It is not recommended to re torque them since they can strech and were properly torqued from the factory.

Well it isn’t really the factory torque since he has a MLS Headgasket. I don't see a problem with just checking the torque, but be careful as they are known to stretch and break. I would definitely put in the APR's though.

 

[Boomdeeze]

When you put in the ARP's make sure u go in 3 steps, I went 40-75-110. (Torque wrench didn't go lower than 40) Just a little info to help you out Not saying you didn't know this already.

 

[rstchris]

I went through this last summer, I pushed coolant at first only at 20+psi ang got worse. I retorqued the arp's and helped a small amound but still pushed coolant. The thing is that when the gasket leaks at any time even just a little it washes away the sealant and makes it easyer to leak again. The only right way for a permanent fix is to replace the HG and if you want to use MLS then don't let them surface with the stone.

 

[stevetalon]

Well I retorqued the stock ones and three tightened when i went from 50lbs to 60lbs. They are all torqued now at 80lbs. I think your right rstchris. The ring probably got jacked when it first leaked so i will replace the headgasket with arps soon. Thanks guys for all the help

 

[pboglio]

I'm not disagreeing with installing a new HG, standard procedure. However, I was pushing a good amount of coolant under heavy boost. I swapped to ARP headstuds installing them without pulling the head, that was 5 years ago and 100 h.p. lower than what I'm at now. If you were blowing coolant at 10 psi, then the HG is probably toast.