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Headgasket questions

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style619s

15+ Year Contributor
172
0
Sep 8, 2007
O'Fallon, Illinois
hey guys ! im replacing my old headgasket with a multi layer one here pretty soon. So i was wondering if anyone has a guide on how to do it or where i could find one... i got all he torque specs for it with Arp headstuds i just need know now how to take the head off
 
2GNT.com - Timing_Belt_Replacement

this will get you started. i know its not what you want but you have to get the timing belt off anyway. follow this and then do whatever else is required to acually remove the head.

i'd just take the whole engine out honestly.

hope that helps you some
BM
 
Some one should do a write up on how to pull the 420a head.
I need to do the same thing but it looks like alot of work but it needs to be done.
 
Some one should do a write up on how to pull the 420a head.
I need to do the same thing but it looks like alot of work but it needs to be done.

Don't worry it's not too hard, I was quite apprehensive the first time and getting the one motor mount bracket bolt out and getting the timing set just right were the hardest parts. Everything else was unbolting stuff and keeping track of it all.

once you get the timing components off, remove the valve cover, unbolt the cams, unplug all sensors attached to the head, unbolt downpipe and or exhaust manifold, then the bi*** is two bolts on the back of the block (there are two brackets bolted to the back of the intake manifold on one end and bolted to the block on the other end, get at least one side off, undo fuel line from fuel rail (two bolts) be careful you don't spray yourself here, there's probably fuel in the line unless you unplugged the pump and ran the car until it stalled before starting any of this, remove the upper radiator hose if you haven't already, remove the hard coolant lines and I think that's about it.

Note you can keep the intake and exhaust manifolds attached, you can leave the throttle body attached, you can leave the fuel rail and injectors in place and if I remember correctly you may also be able to leave the egr tube installed or partially installed
 
Don't worry it's not too hard, I was quite apprehensive the first time and getting the one motor mount bracket bolt out and getting the timing set just right were the hardest parts. Everything else was unbolting stuff and keeping track of it all.

once you get the timing components off, remove the valve cover, unbolt the cams, unplug all sensors attached to the head, unbolt downpipe and or exhaust manifold, then the bi*** is two bolts on the back of the block (there are two brackets bolted to the back of the intake manifold on one end and bolted to the block on the other end, get at least one side off, undo fuel line from fuel rail (two bolts) be careful you don't spray yourself here, there's probably fuel in the line unless you unplugged the pump and ran the car until it stalled before starting any of this, remove the upper radiator hose if you haven't already, remove the hard coolant lines and I think that's about it.

Note you can keep the intake and exhaust manifolds attached, you can leave the throttle body attached, you can leave the fuel rail and injectors in place and if I remember correctly you may also be able to leave the egr tube installed or partially installed


Thats about it in a nutshell right there.

Al tho i have yet to have to pull the cams out of my head pulls. I think it depends on thin wall sockets and swivels and what not but if you can get down in there to remove the head bolts/nuts(if arp) then i wouldn't remove the cams. That would be a lot of extra "stuff" to keep track of.
 
2GNT.com - Timing_Belt_Replacement

this will get you started. i know its not what you want but you have to get the timing belt off anyway. follow this and then do whatever else is required to acually remove the head.

i'd just take the whole engine out honestly.

hope that helps you some
BM

thanks man i was also kinda wondering on how to take that timing belt cover off .. now i know haha
 
Don't worry it's not too hard, I was quite apprehensive the first time and getting the one motor mount bracket bolt out and getting the timing set just right were the hardest parts. Everything else was unbolting stuff and keeping track of it all.

once you get the timing components off, remove the valve cover, unbolt the cams, unplug all sensors attached to the head, unbolt downpipe and or exhaust manifold, then the bi*** is two bolts on the back of the block (there are two brackets bolted to the back of the intake manifold on one end and bolted to the block on the other end, get at least one side off, undo fuel line from fuel rail (two bolts) be careful you don't spray yourself here, there's probably fuel in the line unless you unplugged the pump and ran the car until it stalled before starting any of this, remove the upper radiator hose if you haven't already, remove the hard coolant lines and I think that's about it.

Note you can keep the intake and exhaust manifolds attached, you can leave the throttle body attached, you can leave the fuel rail and injectors in place and if I remember correctly you may also be able to leave the egr tube installed or partially installed

thanks alot me and once i get the cams out they need to go back in the same way right so it'll be easier to time the car right ??
 
thanks alot me and once i get the cams out they need to go back in the same way right so it'll be easier to time the car right ??

Not necessarily, if I remember correctly, when the head is off, rotate the crank until all the pistons are about halfway down in the cylinders. That will give you clearance for all the valves regardless of whether they are open or not, which means you can bolt the head on then bolt the cams back in place, reinstall rear timing cover, reinstall cam gears, then line up the marks on your cam gears. Then you can rotate your crank back to TDC and begin your timing belt install. If at any time there’s resistance, you can always loosen up your cam cap bolts to make sure the clearance is there. Also, another tip, using the old timing belt to rotate the crank makes it a bit easier than trying to do it by hand.
 
If you remove the head with the manifolds attached remember to unbolt the damn brackets that "support" the intake mani from the block. I forgot that once and almost broke the damn IM off while yanking on the head.
 
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