Header & Helicoil Question

[GibsonLP]

So........this is an interesting question.

Recently I picked up a '92 GST Eclipse "project car"

The car is in good shape, but has a wicked exhaust leak from the header.

So the problem is: One of the six header bolts that connects the header to the block was sheered off.

Question: Is it possible to use a Heli-Coil on this with out dropping the Radiator/Front.

I'm willing to tackle this one on my own if I don't have to tear appart the whole front of the car. I'm an ex-fbody guy, and did not enjoy working on my '96 LT1 camaro.

Can I fix this problem with out doing some deep surgery?

Honest Thoughts are welcome.

 

[SinaiTSi]

Just so you know, our turbocharged engines have manifolds. It's really the N/A cars that have headers, even though everyone knows what you're talking about, just thought I'd let you know the "correct" term. As for the stud, I know a lot of guys that couldn't get all of them on and don't worry about it and just run the car maybe like 1 short. Even though I don't necessarily suggest this, just thought I'd let you know it has been done. I had a stud break off in my head one time, and I just removed it with a screw extractor. Even though it was out of the car, which made it a lot easier, if you remove the exhaust manifold you really should be able to get to it with the head still in the car. It's really not that bad once you get used to wrenching on a DSM. Let me know how it goes if you decided to fix it.

 

[leet]

It is possible if you have access to an angle drill.

I installed multiple heli-coils in the head using an air powered 90degree angle drill.

Just be sure to drill your holes straight.

I cannot remember if any of the holes come close to any water/oil passages (this was done a few years ago and my memory is easily the worst on this board, I blame hallucinogens) so you may wish to verify that before you go drill-crazy.

 

[turbo8765]

You shouldn't have bolts, you should have studs. If one of the studs has broken off, then use some sort of extractor (sears) to back out what's left of the stud and install a new one. The only reason you would need to use a helicoil would be if the threads are damaged. It seems as though you are saying you have a stud that is merely broken off.

In either case, I'd pull the manifold. It's really not that difficult and dramatically increases the likelihood that you'll get the job done correctly.

 

[turbo8765]

It is possible if you have access to an angle drill.

I installed multiple heli-coils in the head using an air powered 90degree angle drill.

Just be sure to drill your holes straight.

I cannot remember if any of the holes come close to any water/oil passages (this was done a few years ago and my memory is easily the worst on this board, I blame hallucinogens) so you may wish to verify that before you go drill-crazy.

The bottom center stud threads into an oil passage.

 

[keymaster]

The far left and right studs are directly in front of a water passage.

 

[GibsonLP]

Much apperciated everyone

Obviously I still a newb when it comes to DSMs. I'm gonna give it a shot. I'm not sure if the threads are damaged or not, so I may just try and back the stud out. I know I'm going to pick up a new set, and a new "manifold" (they are surprisingly cheap compared to the set I bought for my Z28)

Being a new member to this board, I'm really happy to see how active the tech section is, and how knowledgable everyone is.

New question? Suggestions on a reasonable stainless manifold for my nearly stock GST? I'm not going to turn it into an animal in the near future. I've searched around an read some very bad things about slowboy, but they seem to have the best price.

 

[SinaiTSi]

I would just pick up a 2g manifold or even an Evo manifold. Since you have a 1g, it won't be a bad idea to upgrade while you can anyways since the 1g manifolds are notorious for cracking. People have gone 400+ HP on a ported 2g manifold and the evo flows even more, yet is a bit more pricey, but both of which will be cheaper than a tubular mani. I've also heard complaints about the tubular mani's cracking and most people don't use them unless they're building an all out race dsm. There's also another option and that is the GT Evo Manifold, it is modeled after the Evo III manifold and it is what I use, and I like it a lot. Turbochargers makes it and at a very reasonable price too. It's what I'd recommend to you, over a tubular type.

http://www.turbochargers.com/store/...d=121&osCsid=429a2437e5982bbe34dd6db0e9be24d8

As for slowboy, I've bought plenty of things from them and never had a problem. Everything that I bought was mostly just stuff that you throw in a box and ship though. Yet I have read about people having issues with them, so I dunno, you just got to take your chances as with any company online really.

Welcome to Tuners.

 

[GibsonLP]

I would just pick up a 2g manifold or even an Evo manifold. Since you have a 1g, it won't be a bad idea to upgrade while you can anyways since the 1g manifolds are notorious for cracking. People have gone 400+ HP on a ported 2g manifold and the evo flows even more, yet is a bit more pricey, but both of which will be cheaper than a tubular mani. I've also heard complaints about the tubular mani's cracking and most people don't use them unless they're building an all out race dsm. There's also another option and that is the GT Evo Manifold, it is modeled after the Evo III manifold and it is what I use, and I like it a lot. Turbochargers makes it and at a very reasonable price too. It's what I'd recommend to you, over a tubular type.

http://www.turbochargers.com/store/...d=121&osCsid=429a2437e5982bbe34dd6db0e9be24d8

As for slowboy, I've bought plenty of things from them and never had a problem. Everything that I bought was mostly just stuff that you throw in a box and ship though. Yet I have read about people having issues with them, so I dunno, you just got to take your chances as with any company online really.

Welcome to Tuners.

Awesome, that sounds like a great alternitive. I want to build up my 1g to about the 300hp point. I'm realizing pretty quickly that almost all the conceptions I have about power adders are meaningless because I've always messed with small bock chevys

This is a scary new world called "DSM" but...........I think I'm gonna like it.

BTW: This Board is much better than the F-body forums I've spent time on. Everyone seems to know so much about these cars, and its pompus about sharing info

 

[shadowdrag]

Which bolt are u talking about? Is it on the side of the mani to the block?

If I was u, I'd get that stud replace ASAP. One of my side stud (the right) from mani to the block shear off and I left it out for the longest time. As time goes by, the engine get very very hot and the motor and mani tend to warp out of shape. After I replace the stud and with new gasket (not the OEM steal), I've notice that it does'nt matter on how many gasket I replace or how tight I tighten the nut, the dam thing leaks horribly. This was a big learning experience for me.

EDIT: Only the dealership will have the exact fitted studs. All auto parts and includding ACE studs will not fit and will strip the threaded hole. I have like ten studs in my garage from ACE and Nappa that will not fit.

 

[GibsonLP]

Which bolt are u talking about? Is it on the side of the mani to the block?

If I was u, I'd get that stud replace ASAP. One of my side stud (the right) from mani to the block shear off and I left it out for the longest time. As time goes by, the engine get very very hot and the motor and mani tend to warp out of shape. After I replace the stud and with new gasket (not the OEM steal), I've notice that it does'nt matter on how many gasket I replace or how tight I tighten the nut, the dam thing leaks horribly. This was a big learning experience for me.

EDIT: Only the dealership will have the exact fitted studs. All auto parts and includding ACE studs will not fit and will strip the threaded hole. I have like ten studs in my garage from ACE and Nappa that will not fit.

Yes, from the Manifold to the bock. I've had the car for less than 2 weeks, but honestly don't know how long its leaked like this.

I've heard the OEM studs are garbage and break very easily?

Is there no one that makes some descent after market studs?

I'm gonna have to get that new mkanifold ordered quickly, and get a good gasket on there, and cross my fingers.

Love this forum.

 

[SinaiTSi]

Slowboy makes a SS stud kit, can't say how much stronger they are than standard as I've never used them, I usually just stick with OEM. They're really not that bad and I've only had 1 break off this entire time. Also kinda pricey for the SS kit though, just one of those things you have to decide for yourself.

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2032&


Also, check out www.jnztuning.com
They sell tons of stuff for DSMs are very reasonable prices, I believe they're selling steel studs for .99 a piece which comes out to be cheaper than the SBR kit.

One other option for OEM stud kit.
http://linux.forcedperformance.net/...P&Product_Code=FPMSK&Category_Code=DSM-Engine


They're just a few of your options, good luck with everything.