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Head rebuild... gonna happen

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flaatr

10+ Year Contributor
265
1
Oct 18, 2010
San Jose, California
So it looks like the head is coming off my 90 GSX motor Monday and there is a pretty good chance it will need to be stripped down... :banghead:

Knowing this, what suggestions would you guys have on what I should do/get for the rebuild? I don't think the valves, springs or cams are damaged but I'm 99% sure I'll need new lifters and a head gasket so revised ones will go in and perhaps ARP hardware will be used, I hear 1G head bolts are about as strong (true/false)

I'm having a local DSM shop do the work as I have zero time at the moment and I want the car checked out anyway (new purchase). I trust their opinion and will ask them the same questions but it wouldn't hurt to come in with some ideas to kick around :thumb:

-Raffi
 
Telling us why the head is coming off will help with informing you of what needs to be done... But, obviously the head should be resurfaced and inspected by a machine shop, new timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, hydraulic tensioner, balance shaft belt, balance shaft belt tensioner, water pump, cam seals are optional pending their condition but they are cheap and you are right there so might as well. You may consider having the machine shop replace the valve stem seals as well while the head is off the car and they can also get a good look at the valve guides during this process. You will pay a little more but its worth it not to have to pull the head again later for a set of $35 valve stem seals. ARP head studs are always a good choice and knowing your goals for the car will aid in deciding what headgasket to go with be it a MLS or standard cometic. I highly recommend using only OEM belts and timing components.
 
I would go with a gates high performance before paying for an oem. You really cant go wrong with an oem replacement as long it is a reliable company. Just go for ebay parts no name brand.
 
The car was running ~22PSI on a rebuilt top and bottom end (5K mi). I think the headgasket is toast and the lifters need replacing with updated (stock ones used during rebuild for some reason). The head is basically a mildly modified stock head... by that I mean ported with new stock components.

Fueling is adequate but could be better... runs a bit rich but that's better than lean.

I think new valve guides makes sense for multiple reasons and this is a good time to remove the balance shaft junk.

-Raffi
 
Stock lifters work fine, they are just prone to ticking. You can upgrade to "revised" lifters that wont tick if you want, but thats the only difference.

You can probably get away with using a stock composite gasket on 20psi but when you start going above that its a good idea to look into a MLS. Its really all in the tuning.

How high do you plan on reving this engine?
 
The car was running ~22PSI on a rebuilt top and bottom end (5K mi). I think the headgasket is toast and the lifters need replacing with updated (stock ones used during rebuild for some reason). The head is basically a mildly modified stock head... by that I mean ported with new stock components.

Fueling is adequate but could be better... runs a bit rich but that's better than lean.

I think new valve guides makes sense for multiple reasons and this is a good time to remove the balance shaft junk.

-Raffi

And when you say built....how built? since it out were you thinking about going all out and doing the larger SS valves with higher lift valve springs and cams? thats what i would do since your there. and having the head pressure checked, decked, new valve stem seals and look at the guides too. but how much money are you looking to spend?
 
All good advise...

I should know more about the head tomorrow and I'll look into the oil port mod.

-Raffi
 
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