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Head Gasket Confusion

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rsofedm

Probationary Member
28
0
Dec 9, 2010
Edmonton, AB_Canada
91 Talon TSi - 269,xxx km's
I just bought the thing and am doing basically every maintenance item possible. Headgasket is one of those. I have an OE gasket and OE bolts. What is the correct procedure?

14 ft lbs + 90deg turn + 90 deg turn
72 ft pounds in 3 incriments

Also, do the bolts get oiled prior?

attached is the Chilton manual which indicates torquing to 65-72 ft/lbs in 3 steps but I read both answers in other places for both 1G and 2G

oh, and I also have no idea how to clean the old gasket crap off the block. I don't really want to use a putty knife to scrape it off unless someone confirms it's ok to do.
 

Attachments

  • cylinder head - removal and install.pdf
    56.9 KB · Views: 52
I recommend you use a razor blade and a rage to wipe the surface to clean off the block. That's what I used. And as far as that document you posted, it's pretty much on the right track, however, I believe the tightening sequence it shows is incorrect. I believe you're supposed to tighten the head bolts in this order:

3 5 9 7 1

2 8 10 6 4

I tighten them little by little each go around until I reach 72 ft/lbs. Once you're finished with your head gasket replacement, I recommend that you really don't push it. Once you have for a little while, make sure your engine is still warm then re-torque your head bolts to make sure they're still at 72 ft/lbs. Hope this helps. :thumb:
 
I recommend you use a razor blade and a rage to wipe the surface to clean off the block. That's what I used. And as far as that document you posted, it's pretty much on the right track, however, I believe the tightening sequence it shows is incorrect. I believe you're supposed to tighten the head bolts in this order:

3 5 9 7 1

2 8 10 6 4

I tighten them little by little each go around until I reach 72 ft/lbs. Once you're finished with your head gasket replacement, I recommend that you really don't push it. Once you have for a little while, make sure your engine is still warm then re-torque your head bolts to make sure they're still at 72 ft/lbs. Hope this helps. :thumb:

interesting. I'd just be nervous about a razor blade gouging up the mating surface.
The sequence you showed above is what the attached PDF showed for untorquing the heads. So... should I be doing the above sequence to torque or reverse of what I removed with?
 
The block is cast iron, you won't gouge the surface very easily. If you are worried, a putty knife will work just as well. The head surface, on the other hand, is a different matter (aluminum) and it will gouge very easily.

The removal sequence is as follows starting from the outside and moving inwards:
4-6-9-7-1
2-8-10-5-3

The tightening sequence is just the opposite -- starting from the middle and moving outwards:
7-5-2-4-10
9-3-1-6-8

Being that your car is a '91, I'd assume it is a 6-bolt. The torque is 65-72 ft.-lbs and engine oil is not called for to lubricate the threads per the FSM, but a slight glazing isn't a bad idea. Thread all bolts down by hand until you feel resistance. Once they are all at that same point, begin tightening using the above sequence in stages. Personally, I give a turn or two to a bolt and move on to the next one so as to take the head down as even as possible, but if you do as the FSM says in two or three cycles, you should be fine. Once you are done, you will want to run the engine and check the torqu when warm, as mrbill86 stated.
 
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ah yes. I keep forgetting about the iron block. I'm used to the aluminum block of my other car.
What about cleaning it off the head then? any recommendations?
 
ah yes. I keep forgetting about the iron block. I'm used to the aluminum block of my other car.
What about cleaning it off the head then? any recommendations?

I recommended at least getting the head checked. If its in spec a machine shop can clean it up real nice for you for very little money. If its out of spec, youll want to get it re surfaced.

The block isnt as huge of a deal since its cast iron, normally i just clean up with a razor blade and a rag with acetone. The chances of it warping too much are slim unless its gotten VERY hot. I always have the head checked though when i pull them for any reason, since theyre aluminum, it doesnt take much to throw them out a little bit.
 
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