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Head Bolts Need Re-Torqued or Blown HG??

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mr2krazee

Proven Member
179
2
Nov 30, 2012
spokane, Washington
hey all, so i recently suffered a couple symptoms of a blown hg, the car will smoke white steam under rev and it drips water out the exhaust at the same time. im in the process of taring the head off to replace the hg and i got to the point of seeing that i have all new timing componets and water pump plus bs removal and all my stuff looks near new on the head and throughout the engine, the mtor appears to be recently rebuilt as the block is freshly painted etc, i just got this car in trade for my old fwd rs laser about 2 months ago and quit driving it about a month ago when i noticed the hg symptoms, what im wondering is, maybe somebody replaced the hg before i got the car and hadnt torqed the head bolts to full spec or maybe they didnt re torque after 500 miles... i need others thoughts on this. should i check the head bolts for proper torque spec in sequence?:confused:
 
You could try to retorque the head studs, but you should do a leak down test to try and locate the problem before you tear it all apart. Don't just go ripping the head off. If you have all the symptoms you are probably going to have to replace the HG, but figure it out first.
 
I would try and torque them id be the cheapest and fastest possibility I guess.

that's the direction im currently leaning towards. just want some 2nd opinions before i move on and purchase parts/perform labor that is possibly unnecessary in which case i would:ohdamn: thanks for the quick reply:rocks:

You could try to retorque the head studs, but you should do a leak down test to try and locate the problem before you tear it all apart. Don't just go ripping the head off. If you have all the symptoms you are probably going to have to replace the HG, but figure it out first.

leak down test sounds good, ive already a compression test and the results were good. i still want to spend as little money possible and i dont have a leak down tester so i think if the head studs are within spec i will perform a leak down test next, but im pretty sure i have a blown HG i also am seeing dark sediment in my coolant system which was previously clean and free of foreign debris. thanks for the quick response:rocks:
 
To re-torque you will need a torque wrench, a short extention, and a 10mm hex-shaped (alien, i believe they are called) socket. You will have to have all these tools to do a HG replacement, so will have to get them either way. And don't forget the repair manual, if you don't have one already.
 
To re-torque you will need a torque wrench, a short extention, and a 10mm hex-shaped (alien, i believe they are called) socket. You will have to have all these tools to do a HG replacement, so will have to get them either way. And don't forget the repair manual, if you don't have one already.

I have all the required tools and more that won't be the issue thankfully.:rocks: thanks tho.

UPDATE:

so i pulled the valve cover and checked the torque spec on the head in sequence, i began at 65lbs and they all moved quite a bit until the torque wrench clicked, i have them all at 65lbs currently, i also found out i have arp studs already installed. i dont think they are the L19s. my question is, should i continue and torque them (in sequence of course) to 80lbs which is what arp recommends? because its obvious they were under torqued.:hmm:

FINAL UPDATE:

i retorqud the arps to 80lbs and the symptoms have vanished. a mod should mark this thread resolved.:rocks:
 
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