Hard Starts For About 10 Minutes, Then It's All Good (ECMLink Logs Attached)

[bo0st]

It takes me about 10 minutes to get my car to idle good.

I have to start it repeatedly, keep giving it gas, wait for it die, repeat this process for about ten minutes and then next start, idles normally on the first hot start.

I've attached 4 ECMLink logs (they are short)

Please let me know if you see anything that would cause this issue.

The car is a 95 GST manual transmission with just a K&N intake, Greedy BOV & ECMLink V3 full (that's it, nothing else) oh and a 1g CAS

 

[wibblersnatch]

Well I'm on my iphone and I can't view your logs. It sounds like a coolant temp sensor to me. I'm pretty sure DSMlink logs coolant temps. Next time you go out to your car after it's sat for a while don't try and start it. Boot up link and check your coolant temp. It should be fairly close to what it is outside. Best time would be in the morning. After it's sat all night.

 

[WFO-TSi]

I’m guessing that the 4 logs you posted were back to back. Anyway, buy the time you are at the end of your 4th log your Front O2 is still not cycling like it should be. That’s after 3+ minutes of combined run time, and a 176 degree coolant temp. When your car is after that 10 minute point and idling good is your Front O2 cycling like it should be?

Could I get you to do up another set of logs this time capturing ISCPosition?

Or if you want you could run through this procedure once the car is warmed up on your own…

“…adjust the BISS until the ISCPosition value logged in DSMLink/ECMLink hovers around 30 at normal warm-engine idle in neutral.”

The full write-up can be found here:

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[WES_393]

The ECU is staying in open loop mode, which is probably because the front O2 didn't cycle for over 128 seconds. That will cause the ECU to stay in open loop. I'd start by testing/replacing the front O2. But I'll bet that's the issue, I didn't see any other red flags in the logs.

 

[gofer]

...do the basics before your start thinking its the tune or spending money replacing parts, you don't have any mods that should be causing starting issues without a tune.

Have you done a BLT?

How long has the car been doing this, ever since you installed Link or before?

 

[bo0st]

Well I'm on my iphone and I can't view your logs. It sounds like a coolant temp sensor to me. I'm pretty sure DSMlink logs coolant temps. Next time you go out to your car after it's sat for a while don't try and start it. Boot up link and check your coolant temp. It should be fairly close to what it is outside. Best time would be in the morning. After it's sat all night.

I'll be doing that soon and posting a log. Thanks!

I'm guessing that the 4 logs you posted were back to back. Anyway, buy the time you are at the end of your 4th log your Front O2 is still not cycling like it should be. That's after 3+ minutes of combined run time, and a 176 degree coolant temp. When your car is after that 10 minute point and idling good is your Front O2 cycling like it should be?

Could I get you to do up another set of logs this time capturing ISCPosition?

Or if you want you could run through this procedure once the car is warmed up on your own...

"...adjust the BISS until the ISCPosition value logged in DSMLink/ECMLink hovers around 30 at normal warm-engine idle in neutral."

The full write-up can be found here:

idlesurge [ECMTuning - wiki]

Thanks! I'll add ISCPosition to the list of capture's & post another log.

The ECU is staying in open loop mode, which is probably because the front O2 didn't cycle for over 128 seconds. That will cause the ECU to stay in open loop. I'd start by testing/replacing the front O2. But I'll bet that's the issue, I didn't see any other red flags in the logs.

Thanks!

...do the basics before your start thinking its the tune or spending money replacing parts, you don't have any mods that should be causing starting issues without a tune.

Have you done a BLT?

How long has the car been doing this, ever since you installed Link or before?

Yes I've performed a BLT, no leaks. The car had this problem before link.

Using link it's been better after adjusting TPS settings & selecting use non 95/96 CAS under MISC

 

[gofer]

That's good news then.

Add a few things to your log, the ones you've provided show a small window of what could be happening because there's a lot of data you aren't capturing.

CombinedFT, STFT, MAFRaw, LrndIdleAdjust, ISCPosition, and Baro.

One of the reasons why your car's starting like shit might be because you've got the "lock in open loop" box checked under the Misc tab. Having it locked will keep the ECU from using the front o2 sensor input voltage to maintain stoich AFR's at idle/light throttle cruise conditions when it should.

Uncheck that box, add those values, then capture another log of you trying to start the car and get it to idle.

 

[bo0st]

I have some new logs if anybody can take a look at it and tell me why I'm having cold starts that would be much appreciated!

Edit: (Log coldstartdiag5 is too big for this forums attachments by a few KB so I uploaded it to MediaFire cold start problem diag 5.elg MediaFire.com

)