1G Hard intake pipe

[arch18]

I have a 1G and I want a hard intake pipe I can use with a 2G MAF. I plan on using a short route FMIC. Any suggestions?

 

[Dsmkauai]

I have a cheap eBay for a 2g works just fine. Also have a Fp one

 

[arch18]

Do you have any pics of how it looks and fits? What do I need to make it work? Thanks

Also, I read on the FP site that the hard pipe will not fit on a 1G because it is too long...

 

[gusu]

FP makes a 1g pipe and a 2g pipe. The stock 1g MAF sucks and you can't just run a 2g MAF with out some way to correct fuel.

My question is why are you wanting a hard 1g intake pipe? If you upgrade your intercooler piping later or get a new intercooler it may not fit.

You are going to probably need to get a different filter and until you get your new short route installed it may be a good idea to hold off until you know how it will fit. You are going to need to figure out a new location for your coolant reservoir.

I know some people may not see it my way, but I wouldn't go with a K&N filter. For one they are spending and two they don't catch as much dirt as people would lead you to believe. Plus those mushroom shaped green ones would save you a TON of space and could easily give you more options as to where to mount your reservoir.

For example. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251744703047?lpid=82&chn=ps

 

[Dsmkauai]

2g maf/vibrant filter and intake pipe on my gvr4.

 

[arch18]

Thanks for the advise! The mushroom filter sounds like a good option, I'm going to look into that. I'm going to hold off on the hard pipe and use the stock intake tube and get a filter. And about the 2G MAF, I've been reading and I was under the impression that it didn't need a tune to run correctly on the 1G. I guess I need to look into it again.

 

[gusu]

No, you'd need something along the lines of a AFC or Link. But some people run the 2g MAF and Evo 550s together because it gets you "close" to correct fuel trims. Since the 2g MAF flows more air the readings are lower than the 1g sensor as far as the untuned and uncorrected ECU can tell. However sine you have an extra 100cc of fuel, it sort of makes up the difference.

Personally I wouldn't do it. Either way you are dumping fuel or running lean. Dumping fuel may not be immediately detrimental to your motor, but over time that extra fuel washing down your cylinder walls will cause additional damage. It might be slight, it might not be. The truth is the condition of your motor will come into play far more than anything else. Just because someone had a positive experience running it does not mean you will. However, if you want to run the risk of doing it anyway keep that in mind. With these cars, if you are on a budget now you will probably be on a budget for years. Today's band-aid fix could very easily end up being a long term solution.

 

[bigbird94]

I made an injen intake and kn filter fit on my 1g. I have relocated the fuse box and have short route intercooler piping though. It all depends on your set up.

 

[arch18]

I really appreciate the helpful input! Thanks

 

[arch18]

I'm going to look into S-AFC and the DSMLINK. I'm not sure what the difference is but it looks like I will need some sort of tuning devise to run things smoothly. I want to purchase once and not worry about it in the future.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Ecmlink and don't look back! Way worth it. Or black box ecu and use ceddymod or evoscan...

 

[gusu]

DSMlink is old. ECMlink is it's replacement.

ECMlink is full tuning, where as a SAFC is kind of a shit solution as it only allows fuel correction. SAFCs were great back in the day when a proper tuning solution was far more expensive.

Either way, you will need to know what you are doing or pay for a tune or for someone to set up your SAFC for something.

You can also go with far more expensive options like a aftermarket ecu such as the Haltech ECUs. Haltechs are only really useful if you are going hardcore into modding. ECMlink is honestly the best solution vs how much you will spend.

Just as a example, you can use a Haltech ECU to run a electronic throttlebody instead of using a throttle cable. You can do a great deal other things, but 99% of us would never use very many of the options.

If I were you, I wouldn't waste money on the SAFC which you will end up getting rid of if you continue to mod your car anyway. Link is amazing, cost effective and has lots of features.

ECMlink supports things like anti-lag, launch control, tuning (obviously), 1g/2g MAF, Speed density (Better than running a MAF and allows you to vent to atmosphere if you want), GM MAF (Not as good as speed density but allows you to vent as well), you can also do things like not run a ISC and use emulation instead. There are many more options as well, but at least you have an idea.

 

[arch18]

Thanks for the info. I'm looking into it!

 

[arch18]

I decided to try the mushroom filter that gusu recomemded. I'll let you all know how it works

 

[413mudman]

I like the HKS Super suction intake filter. Mushroom looking

 

[arch18]

I bought a knock off

 

[arch18]

I think I will also stick with the factory snorkel as well. I'm trying to avoid figment problems with a short route fmic. I think I'm going with the VRSR

 

[agentorange313]

My advice is to check what intake people are using with a 1g VRSF FMIC. Then you wont have a problem when you upgrade to that FMIC set upin the future. If you are using a 1g intake, make the skip oiver the 2g MAS and get an evo. It will have the same outer diameter measurement as the evo, no need to buy a 4" to 3.125" reducer.

Heres some info: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo-8-maf-with-1g-can.462551/

 

[arch18]

What will I need to pair with the evo mas to keep the car running correctly? I don't have the cash to drop on a dsmlink right now?

 

[gusu]

What will I need to pair with the evo mas to keep the car running correctly? I don't have the cash to drop on a dsmlink right now?

The Evo MAF flows roughly 20% more air so you'd more injector than even the 2g MAF to attempt to correct it through that method.

I run the VRSF kit, it's great and easy to install. The J-pipe is a bi***! Buy some M8x1.25 allen and a stuby allen wrench or cut one down to size. It will make your J-pipe install much less time. You can either use something like a dremel to cut the "D" or just tin snips and pry it away with some plyers. The metal is extremely thin, and don't worry you'lll know exactly what I am talking about once you start taking stuff apart.

 

[Maes]

Gusu the j-pipe is such a pain that's some good advice