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Guess what I found on my new 1G....

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Vegas Smith

20+ Year Contributor
5,193
3,153
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
The wrong head gasket! In your opinion, do I have to resurface the head if I remove it to change the HG? Are ARPs a must for 400hp and under? Thanks.
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You can check the head to see if it's warped and needs an resurface
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But about the arp's like 91stocker said why not, they are cheep enough and the head is off any way. I went ahead and got them and iv been on stock boost for 2 years after. I'm only at 182 fwhp if I remember correctly Not for long though.
 
It's difficult to say. It's running but "falls flat on it's face when you get on the throttle" says the DSM shop I took it took to to fix another problem I didn't have the ability to fix. One of the cylinders is misfiring but the car supposedly has a GM MAF and SD sensors hooked up at the same time. So, it's difficult to say what specific problems, if any, the hg is causing.
 
Well, because the pictures show it's wrong. I mean, I guess since the car starts up then it's a good start; no pun intended, but it's clearly not the appropriate hg for the car right? Maybe an evo gasket.
 
i say change the head gasket install arp head suds since they are cheap and your already there and if the head is not warped slap it back together just my .2
 
Pauley you can see from the pics that the head gasket is sticking out prob a 1/4" from the surface of the head/block. The pic on the left shows a partially exposed passage I believe this is why the OP is worried. I just checked two of my cars and the head gasket sticks out past the surface in the same spot but their isn't a partially exposed hole under the original turbo feed. One of the cars is low mileage and I'm pretty sure its a factory head gasket.
 
My recommendation would be not to run the car anymore until you pull the head and see what's going on. That corner is where the oil supply to the head is, and the head gasket seals this port. Your current gasket doesn't look like it does this, which is a serious problem. I'm surprised the car isn't profusely $hitting out oil of that corner. Or is it?

In short, if that port isn't sealed, you lose pressure to the head, cams, rockers, blah, blah, blah...See where this is bad?

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Bottom line, that's the wrong head gasket. You need to pull the head.

As far as resurfacing, you won't know until you measure it as mentioned above. Measure the deck and head surfaces, and check to verify they are true. If they are, clean them up and throw on a new gasket.

ARP studs aren't required, but most would highly recommend them even for a build under 400hp. They are cheap insurance, and there's really no reason not to install them.



Edit:
I almost wonder if someone put the gasket on upside down? Looking at an old picture of mine, it almost looks like the rear drain port hole is up front on your motor. Honestly, I've never tried to put a head gasket on upside down, so someone school me up if this isn't even possible ROFL:
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I don't think a compression test would show you much unless the head gasket is completely wrong, and the fire rings don't even align with the cylinder bores and head.

I wouldn't even waste my time doing any testing. The gasket is either the wrong one, or it's installed wrong. Both issues can only be corrected by pulling the head. So, pull the head OP. There's no point in testing, IMO. It's clearly wrong.
 
What makes them so sure?
 
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