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2G Gsx engine not cranking

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eclipsecrazy1989

Proven Member
37
2
Mar 25, 2015
Hemet, California
Hey guys, i'm working on a gsx and I have a new battery hooked up, when I try to start it I get a click and then nothing until I release the key. After I release the key I can here a short spinning sound coming from the starter I believe...
Any ideas? Please let me know what you think and what I can do to fix it, thanks.
 
While checking for chewed up wires it may be worth while to either unhook battery or make Damn sure the key is off... And Ya ten to one your going to have a bunch of bad wires and possibly more issues... My advice for wire repair is to do it properly if it's in the engine bay make sure you use sealing crimp wire connectors AND shrinkwrap also if a wire has several bad spots on it follows it and see where it goes or to where it's not damaged any more and cut out the bad section all together and replace it with a new piece.... If there is a bunch of connectors and splices on one wire it has more resistance also more opportunity to fail... And when crimping after you connect wire and crimp it down before sealing it with lighter just pull on it and make sure it doesn't pull out... Just some simple tips the basics always bite people in the ass... Minimal splicing and heat shrink everything... Just helpful tips.... hope you get her running soon... I'm in the process of trueing up my exhaust header I learned a stupid lesson buy cheap expect cheap results... I'm in need of fp exhaust manifold just don't have cash... Damn oh well that's the price to pay I guess...
 
Thanks, ya I'm pretty confidant on wiring, but I got the intake manifold out and checked all wires, my knock sensor was the only damaged wires in the engine bay. But I'm in the same boat with the FP Manifold, once I get mine running I will be shopping for one as well.
 
^ I'd recommend soldering , sure those crimps might last a few months but then what? I'd rather make 'y's and twist my wire 'y's together than use any crappy plastic covered crimps , t taps , spades ect..


Soldering is always a forsure thing you can buy one for dirt cheap (as cheap as that box of crimp connectors)

As for the 'y' thing it's helpfull in tight spaces to solder wires together when your by yourself example: ( hard to hold solder +hold the wires + acually solder it while upside down or what ever LOL) it's a 100% a good connection (I'm sure there's cleaner way's like loops ect.. this worked best for me in tight spaces )

Example ( to avoid confusion of my ways haha)

Pic 1 make 'y' on each wire

Pic 2 put them bastards together

Pic 3 twist each oppiseing 'y' wire together

Pic 4 twist the other side of the 'y'

Pic 5 what your left with after twisting then twist those together

Pic 6 what the end result is then soldier that part (heat up the wire then apply solder to avoid cold solder joints use the iron accordingly if you need more heat apply it ect..)

Oh and +1 on heat shrink wayy better than electrical tape imo just make sure to put it in first! Haha if I had a nickel LOL good luck

Ps I was bord ^
 

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Lol! Awesome visual aids! +1 abd ya that's a cool idea, ill have to try it out on the knock sensor, a buddy of mine has an extra starter so I'm going to get that and go from there to start worrying abd hopefully get the car fired up
 
Well, a friend of mine who it's a dsm veteran out here said that the fact that it's so easy to move my crank is probably because of crank walk causing no compression, so looks like I will be pulling the oil pan off to make 100% sure it's not crank walk :/
 
Hmm let's hope not bro! Damn 7 bolts haha , still routing on the starter just not engaging ! , how easily does it turn ? We used a breaker bar to turn my 6 bolts crank I wouldn't say it was hard to turn mine. I thought if the crank walked it would not turn at all? Basically siezeing the engine ? Srry haven't delt with crank walk b4 check for play
 
Ya I used a torque wrench and it didn't have really any resistance, so I am going to pull the oil pan to see for sure, but there isn't any play on the pulley it feels pretty stable.
 
Yes, finally got to it today drained the oil to pull the pan and decided to try to turn the crank again, and it's not moving at all now :/ this car just wants a new motor for sure
 
The clutch feels fine, supposed to be an exedy clutch, still stock feel though, abd idk about the timing, but it ran as a daily till it stopped sui I couldn't see it getting out of timing
 
You don't need a torque wrench to bar the engine over, just use a breaker bar. Crank walk would not stop your engine from turning. Make sure the car was not left in gear the last time you tried to bar it over. An engine doesn't turn over one time and then not the other. As for your starter, try jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver, this is a quick way to determine if the starter is good or bad. Then you can determine if your starter is the issue or if you have a wiring issue. Good luck!
 
Guitarkid the belt is fine, and I'm not sure how to check timing on a car that won't turn, how would I go about that?
99gsxboy
The torque wrench is just what Iused it had nothing to do with the torque part it was just to turn the crank. It was very easy to turn, and now not at all the first time I tried it today it was in gear but I noticed that and took it out of gear and tried again, still not moving
 
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