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Gsx clutch and flywheel replaced, vibration at 60

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2gSpyder4g63t

Probationary Member
16
0
Feb 25, 2010
Crary, North Dakota
I recently bought a 99 gsx the needed a clutch, so I replaced it with an ACT 2100 with street disc, and fidanza light weight flywheel, oem tob, CC shift fork. I've got about 20 miles on the setup now and I was coming home and I got a bad vibration at 60+ faster I go seems the worse it gets. Also note that the a/f ratio is maxed lean. Help
 
Yes I used red lock tight even used new flywheel bolts, low speed seems fine I have brought it into boost but nothing hard at all, vibration seems worst in the rear. I changed transfer case fluid as well. Boost gauge reads about -8 an the vibration gets worse. Limped it home about 8 miles at a hair under 60
 
Not to familiar with the gsx model but think you could've thrown the engine balance off with the lightened flywheel?
 
I've read on that.. Wouldn't know if it threw a CEL code because 3in exhaust no 02 sensor

So perhaps it did knock the motor out of balance would throwing the stock flywheel back on fix this issue if it is the case? I'll get it jacked up and make sure everything is tight before I tear it back apart
 
Yea I would scan the car but if intoning comes up I would change it back as long as the problem only occurred after the install
 
i don't think its a flywheel problem . i would check your front axles make sure there isn't a lot of play at the joints . your vibration probably gets worst on acceleration which would point out to an axle problem. also make sure that the axle is all the way in the trans .
 
Also check your tires and make sure all the weights are there. To me sounds like an out of balance tires.
 
Ok I will check all of these things mentioned thanks for the help guys. My only other question is as soon as this happened my a/f ratio gauge (Aem wideband 02) maxed out to lean, why would this be?

And twicks69 idk the CEL has been on for no 02 sensor on exhaust but I am gonna get a code reader. Any certain place I can get one

Also drivers side has the hanger bearing is it still possible for it to not be seated into trans properly?
 
Last edited:
Twicks is most likely on the right track. Lightened flywheels with no dowel pin on the crank to align the flywheel can cause a multiple cylinder misfire code. I have personally dealt with the issue on two different cars. Symtoms were exactly as you described, feels kinda like being on spaced out rumble strips, leans way out, and barely accelerates.

The theory is that with a heavy oem flywheel, it absorbs the natural engine harmonics, whereas a lightweight flywheel lets the harmonics transfer to the crank trigger sending a false signal to the crank sensor. You can either put the stock flywheel back on or buy an alignment dowel from extremepsi or jnztuning etc. Stock cars do not come with a dowel, they are aligned at the factory.

If you go with a dowel put it in the freezer right when you get it. Then it will shrink a little and tap right into the crank no fuss no damage.
 
I ran into this issue about 10 years ago with my own car and have seen it multiple times since. I think all situations were 2g's, if not all 97-99 setups on 7-bolt motors with stock ECU (plus piggybacks).

It first reared its head when I would cruise around the 2500-3400rpm range in 5th on the highway, then feel like a heavy vibration; multiple cylinder misfire. If I would shift to neutral, the car would normally stumble out or stall, but if I keyed off, then turned the car back on it would go away. I tossed the shit Fidanza in it and put in a crank dowel and replaced the crank angle sensor and cleaned the cam angle sensor. Fixed that.

Of course, if it is happening at all times in any gear at any rpm, pull the transmission and confirm proper installation, and then install a crank dowel. Then reassemble everything properly including replacement of bellhousing alignment dowels, all bellhousing fasteners (including the M8 rear bolt), and reset the ECU.
 
Scanned the car a misfire came up for cylinder one at 83 mph, 3800 rpms so that code is old and the problem was a plug wire. And that was the only code up

Got the car on jack stands passenger wheel bearings got some play in it. Grabbed the wheel at 12 and 6 probably 1/4 an inch of in and out play. Axles seem to be good an in place. However where the axle runs through the bottom of shock absorber into the hub, seems like the axle boot rubs on the bottom of the shock absorber and there appears to be a good build up of grease on there and when I assembled it it was clean...

Drivers side axle, the cv boot where the axle meet the hub is completely tore all the way around, the problem seems to be from rubbing on the bottom of the shock absorber. So my question is will bad axles cause this massive vibration? Also are the the boots for the axles suppose to rub on the bottom of the shock absorber?
 
I also found the that bolt for the bell housing that goes through the dowel pin was very loose on the front and I just got the m8 one for the back side today, if those weren't there(or not tight) would the trans possibly pull from the block, pulling the tcase a bit to make everything run a little off to cause this viberation?
 
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