replaced clutch,flywheel and fork and still got problems

[streetstyleauto]

i took my car to turbotrix
replaced the following
-transmission and t case from engine depot(mine was messed up)
-act 2600
-act flywheel
-clutch fork and ball
-all the belts and water pump
i drove it home with no problems maybe 10 miles
i left it in my drive way for a week then decided to take it for a spin
and it wont let me go into gears
if a push really hard it starts to grind
also idle goes up and down
i dont know what to do please help
also if anyone is close to fords nj 08863 and its willing to help me please let me know
thank you guys

 

[DSM nOOb]

I would try making sure the clutch was bled properly

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Sounds like your slave is out of whack. Like it won't fully disengage the clutch or something. I would just search around for info on adjusting the clutch, and you'll be golden.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

You need to be careful here. You don't want to damage any of your new parts.

if a push really hard it starts to grind

Can you clarify this for me?

If you try to force the car into gear with a clutch that won't disengage well yeah.. it'll grind.
But, if you're pressing the clutch pedal down really hard and that's when the grinding occurs that's quite another thing.
It is very common to shim the clutch pivot ball with an ACT 2600 setup, but since all your parts were new, the ball/fork/flywheel/disk/pp, Turbotrix should not have needed to shim the ball. However, if they did, it is possible to over-shim the ball and you increase to the fork travel to the point that you start to re-engage the clutch. It's really weird to wrap your head around but you can actually push your pedal so far as to start performing the opposite action. In this kind of situation when you fully/hard depress the clutch as far as it will go you will get some nasty grinding that can significantly shorten the life of your clutch assembly or even cause a failure.

So, my course of action would be something similar to this:
1. Ensure the clutch is bled properly
2. Inspect the location of the clutch fork and it's position in the inspection window
3. Call Turbotrix and ask them if they shimmed the pivot ball
4. Continue conversation with Turbotrix and ask them if they will stand by their work and if you can bring the car back in for them, to straighten the whole thing out.
5. Figure out your idle fluctuation. It is likely not related to the clutch install but if they did all new belts and water pump etc. Did they do the timing belt, too? Check timing, boost leaks, test your ISC, etc.

Good luck, keep us updated!

 

[Andrews93gsx]

My buddy actually had this same problem. Not saying yours is extactly this but.. We did a motor swap with a JDM motor. So we put the old transmission on lined everything up. We got the swap done and it worked perfect, the next day it wouldn't go into gear. then it would again the next day. We came to find out that the previous owner had adjusted the master cylinder so far that it overextended and pushed the tranny seal in and fluid was leaking in the tranny.

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

Sounds like you have a small leak in your clutch hydraulic system. Is your clutch fluid resivour low or do you have to keep adding fluid to it? If so you have a leak somewhere. I would start by checking for leaks and then bleading the slave cylinder.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

I dont' get it, do you have pedal pressure?

 

[aspekt9]

Check the master cylinder. A heavier clutch on a not so new master cylinder can cause it to leak. I had the same issue and sure enough my master cylinder was leaking a tiny bit. Replaced it, adjusted the rod and engagement was perfect.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

...Of course follow the above directions.

One thing that it could be, though...check for a dragging clutch.

While parked and the car started, slowly ease the shifter towards each gear. Ensure that the engine begins to bog down.

Next, with the car in neutral... rev the engine up a little and see if the car tries to creep forward. If not, put it into first and do the same thing. Kill the engine if you have to just to get it into gear.

Report back with your finds.

 

[streetstyleauto]

I would try making sure the clutch was bled properly

it was... they told me everything that they did to the car

My buddy actually had this same problem. Not saying yours is extactly this but.. We did a motor swap with a JDM motor. So we put the old transmission on lined everything up. We got the swap done and it worked perfect, the next day it wouldn't go into gear. then it would again the next day. We came to find out that the previous owner had adjusted the master cylinder so far that it overextended and pushed the tranny seal in and fluid was leaking in the tranny.

i cant find any leaks

I dont' get it, do you have pedal pressure?

i do i think is normal for a act 2600

You need to be careful here. You don't want to damage any of your new parts.

Can you clarify this for me?

If you try to force the car into gear with a clutch that won't disengage well yeah.. it'll grind.
But, if you're pressing the clutch pedal down really hard and that's when the grinding occurs that's quite another thing.
It is very common to shim the clutch pivot ball with an ACT 2600 setup, but since all your parts were new, the ball/fork/flywheel/disk/pp, Turbotrix should not have needed to shim the ball. However, if they did, it is possible to over-shim the ball and you increase to the fork travel to the point that you start to re-engage the clutch. It's really weird to wrap your head around but you can actually push your pedal so far as to start performing the opposite action. In this kind of situation when you fully/hard depress the clutch as far as it will go you will get some nasty grinding that can significantly shorten the life of your clutch assembly or even cause a failure.

So, my course of action would be something similar to this:
1. Ensure the clutch is bled properly
2. Inspect the location of the clutch fork and it's position in the inspection window
3. Call Turbotrix and ask them if they shimmed the pivot ball
4. Continue conversation with Turbotrix and ask them if they will stand by their work and if you can bring the car back in for them, to straighten the whole thing out.
5. Figure out your idle fluctuation. It is likely not related to the clutch install but if they did all new belts and water pump etc. Did they do the timing belt, too? Check timing, boost leaks, test your ISC, etc.

Good luck, keep us updated!

i didnt have a chance to call them yet but will tomorrow
now
when the car is off i can go to every gear 1-5
but when tha car is on and try to shift gears it start to grind (not the clutch pedal)
..the

 

[90LaserturboWy]

Oh the suspense! What did the shop say? I am having the exact problem. Please reply.

thanks,

 

[tjbiker031]

are you sure the adjustment arm is adjusted properly. Usually you have to adjust it once a new clutch is installed. Did you look at the fork arm moving for range of motion.

 

[95g-s-x]

Your pedal is out of adjustment......plain and simple! Get your wrenches, get on your back, and adjust the clutch pedal rod out little by little until your clutch engages properly. Shouldnt take more than 10 mins the first time.

Dont waste your time calling the shop, do it yourself. If you would have read the vfaq for it, you could have had it done already!

 

[90LaserturboWy]

I had the exact symptoms but mine turned out to be a pressure plate that was incorrectly manufactured and when I tightened it to the flywheel, it bit into it, and my clutch was not strong enough to pry it away from the flywheel. I think you said that yours was driving ok for awhile so I doubt that you have the same problem.

 

[streetstyleauto]

it was the pressure plate ...i sent it back to act and the send me a brand new one

 

[adidasdudegst]

I myself have been dealing with lots of clutch engagement issues lately, hopefully that new pressure plate works out for ya. That master cylinder is key to almost everything adjustment wise.