Greddy Type-S Problem. Please Read!!!

[jm1080]

ok so I bought a used type-s on ebay (authentic) and it was in real good condition. Anyways when I put on my hard IC pipes I installed it and I noticed that the threads were gone from the inside of the bov where the screw adjusts.

So I got help from some of the guys in the forums. Paul made new threads on the BOV, and put in a new screw, just a bit bigger so it can fit in the new threads. There are no leaks now or anything when adjusted hard. But you cant hear the whistle that the type-S is known for Anyways I start to loosen it up and u hear a soft whistle on idle like a leak. And when I tighten it it goes away. Does anyone have any idea how I can get the whistle back? Could it be the new screw that we put in?

By the way before it made the really nice whiste. Now if it makes a really bad whistle like 30seconds after it blows off and it sounds like a dying bird.....plus its real soft and it sometimes just whistles slowly on idle when i loosen it up.. Anyone have any idea??

Thanks!

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'm running with the single spring.
It took some fussing to get it to work properly, but with the single spring, and alignment of that hold mentioned above it had been working great for roughly 3 years. Its only needed adjustment within the last 2 weeks or so.

 

[jm1080]

Ok guys i got an update on my type-s. Well today I received springs and diaphragm from a member on here. So I took apart my greddy type-s and guess what I saw?? There was no diaphragm!!! Also there was only one spring, but the spring was not the big spring, it was the small inner spring!! The metal plate that goes on top of the spring didnt even fit on the spring and caused the plate to move around. I gave the ebayer positive feedback!! I guess ill report it.

Anyways the diaphragm that the fellow member sent me (thanks by the way) is from a knockoff because the real one is expensive. Does it really matter? Also the diaphragms holes where the screw go into some are ripped out a bit, should I put RTV to seal the rips in the holes? Or just leave it as it is? I will post pics as soon as my cam is charged

 

[Burnett03]

So let me get this straight, you are tuning your bov for sound? Wtf?

 

[95eclipser]

^^^ bro if you cant say somthing product then get off the fourm

i feel yea man when i bought my used rs from a guy with a srt4 he said he always had probs? i later found out the spring was up side down

 

[TSiAWD666]

The bov won't work if the diaphragm leaks. Good luck getting rtv to hold the pressure, but I don't think you'll have much success.

As for tuning the bov for sound or function, this bov sounds like a puny whistle unless you like compressor surge, in which case you get a nice big whoosh on high boost releases but the good ol' bucking car during low throttle/boost transitions. I'd rather have a puny whistle than a bucking self-destructing car.

 

[jm1080]

The RTV is not to hold the pressure its just for the outside where the diaphragm cant reach cause its a diaphragm from a knockoff. Anyways I put RTV to hold springs together onto the plate and on diaphragm just to be on the safe side. Here are pics I took:

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In the first one thats diaphragm I received from member, it was a bit small as you can see in the pic, but I added RTV on the outer part to make it seal. Hopefully it works that way . I added more after I took the pic and made it more clean looking, Im just waiting for it to dry for a bit.

By the way 95eclipser, if the spring is upside down there could be probs? When I looked at both springs there the same on both sides Hopefully I put it in the right side.

 

[jm1080]

Heres an update. I finally fixed my problem with bov and it sounds a whole lot better with 2 springs and its adjusted real soft. You have to click pic to watch vid because it wont let me embed them. On third vid you can hear an after whistle, maby I have to adjust it a bit more or something. Let me know what you guys think.

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[soldave]

Glad you're finally managing to get it sorted out

 

[jm1080]

Glad you're finally managing to get it sorted out

Thanks man, I forgot but the more I harden it the more the signature sound? Or softer? Right now it really really soft, almost all the way off. Im running about 12psi right now.

 

[woowoopdoo]

I think I might be having the same problem with my GReddy Type-s. At low boost it sounds like it purrs. It doesn't do that whistle like in the videos. I'm currently at 17 PSI and at full boost this is what it sounds like. Could there be something wrong with the bov?


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[jm1080]

To me that sounds like its fluttering. I remember when mine was too hard it would flutter, try loosening the spring and see how it works. Also how many springs you running? Mine had 1 small spring at first, then I tried 1 big spring, but it still didnt sound good, and finally i tried 2 springs and the sound much better, but I think it still leaks a bit, im not too sure I havnt adjusted mine with 2 springs (its all the way soft)

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I ran a type S for 5 years before I finally switched over. The one thing I've noticed is that my BOV was always adjusted TOO soft. I've noticed that the BOV will whistle at one point on the 'softer side' and will also whistle on a 'harder side'. If you stripped your screw, just remove the top and drill and tap it out to 7mmx1.00 and replace it with a larger 7mm bolt. Once you do that, try adjusting it to HARD and loosen it up as you drive throughout the week. It is more important that the BOV seals and gives you a whacky noise versus a totally loose BOV that holds boost for shit and gives you a cool whistle.

 

[jm1080]

I just got back from another run, trying to see what happens when adjusted a bit harder. So before on last vids it was all the way soft. Now in this first vid it is adjusted 2 full turns harder.

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The next vid is adjusted 1 in half more harder.

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I cant really tell a difference in boost/speed. But in noise it is a bit different in the second vid. Let me know what you guys think because i still cant tell difference if adjusted harder or softer, but if adjusted harder holds boost better than i guess ill keep it harder.

 

[woowoopdoo]

jm1080: On your first video it sounds like it's leaking a little. On the second one it doesn't.

As long as it's holding boost and not leaking I'm good. As of right now mine is set a little bit harder than half way. I don't know how many spring it's got though. I'm guessing it's still 1. It doesn't sound like it's leaking.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I would keep going harder until it starts chugg chugg chugging. Then back it up a 1/2 turn. This pretty much gives you the stiffest you can go without surging.

 

[rarson]

That "chugg chugg chugg" noise isn't surge, it's BOV flutter. Surge is something completely different.

The BOVs (including stock) leak at idle because the engine is at vacuum, which puts the top of the diaphragm at a vacuum as well. That is one of the reasons why Mitsubishi gave the cars a return tube. As long as you're not dumb and you don't vent it to atmosphere, a BOV leaking at idle is not a problem at all.

Also, if you're not using the bottom port, the pressure on the diaphragm will do a pretty good job of keeping the BOV shut under boost. I would much rather run the Greddy loose than run it tight.

But then again, I think the Greddy is overpriced junk. A modified 1g BOV will hold boost a lot better than the Greddy will, without sacrificing smooth operation.

 

[woowoopdoo]

So should I just plug up the lower nipple on the bov and not use it?

 

[soldave]

Well what's your situation? Are you finding you are getting a slight big of surge before the BOV kicks in properly?

 

[woowoopdoo]

At low boost(4- 8psi or so) it kinda flutters. And at full boost(17- 18psi) it chuggs like in the video. Is it supposed to be like that?

 

[jm1080]

woowoopdoo: loosen it up and see if it works better. Also how can you tell mine leaks in the first video? I think it sounds better in first than 2nd? But yet I cant tell if it leaking or not.

And so I dont get why 2 people have opposite opinions on to harden it or loosen it?? 1 says to harden it to keep springs stiff and hold boost better? And other say to keep it more loose (soft)? which one is it? I dont want to tear the threads of the bov again.

 

[gregalmighty]

Don't plug the bottom nipple. Just leave it open. For bigger turbo applications its supposed to be hooked to a pressure source either from the turbo itself or LICP. As far as determining if its leaking, do a boost leak test. There is no way you can tell by just looking at it or listening to it while your driving.

Edit: jm1080: it sounds like you have yours adjusted properly, I'd still suggest a boost leak test to make sure its not leaking. You want it stiff enough so it holds the boost but you still want it to open. The softer you have it the more it will open at lower boost pressures but you may experience it leaking at higher boost pressures. The key is just finding the happy median.

woowoopdoo: You have yours way too tight, or too stiff of a spring. It doesn't even sound like the blow off valve is opening. That crazy sound its making it the air going back through the turbo and coming out of your intake pipe aka compressor surge.. not good for your turbo. Soften it up or try a softer spring and you should be good to go.

 

[woowoopdoo]

jm1080: It sounded like it was leaking at full boost because it sounded like air was escaping somewhere. And in the other vid it didn't. My friend had a leak in his gst and it sounded just like that. Mybe that's just me, I don't know.

I'll losen mine up and see how it goes. I just hope it gets fixed.

 

[jm1080]

Well I started to adjust it a bit harder to see how it works and it started to flutter, so then I loosened it up a bit from there and guess what happened!!??

The threads came apart from the BOV!!!!! and I already added new threads from before!!! Now I cant even put the screw in!!! Has anyone had experience with this? If I make new threads will the screw be even bigger than before??? It was already big....

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Well you really have no choice, go tap it with the next step up. In all honesty, the screw can be an M10 and still do it's job. Just make sure it seals.

 

[U2_slow]

Well I started to adjust it a bit harder to see how it works and it started to flutter, so then I loosened it up a bit from there and guess what happened!!??

The threads came apart from the BOV!!!!! and I already added new threads from before!!! Now I cant even put the screw in!!! Has anyone had experience with this? If I make new threads will the screw be even bigger than before??? It was already big....

I had no idea that the Type S was so flawed, I had actually planned on getting one... but I'm guessing that it all depends on how you use it?