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greddy type-s

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mirkoelek

15+ Year Contributor
625
4
Oct 4, 2004
phoenix, Arizona
can you tell me how to adjust this BOV, and how much power gives you to the stock engine OMG
 
let us know why you would need to adjust the bov? Just wondering. ill let you know how when i know why you want to.LOL
 
97GS-TSpyder said:
let us know why you would need to adjust the bov? Just wondering. ill let you know how when i know why you want to.LOL
it says soft and hard on the top, does it make difference?
How much power?
 
the reason you will need to adjust the pressure on your BOV is because it is releasing pressure prematurely or well thats about it...if your driving under boost at about half throttle nad you dont hear your BOV your fine....if you do adjust it higher

and your bov doesnt give you power

just manages boost level thats all and reliefs it when you let of the gas
 
If it is leaking under boost you turn the adjustment clockwise to increase spring tension. If it is surging at full boost lift then you need to turn it counter clockwise to ease up on the spring pressure.


It won't gain you any power.
 
Turn your Type-S as hard as it will go. Drive around and you'll experience what compressor surge is like. The bov will make a 'chuh chuh chuh' noise.. compressor surge, over time, is hard on your turbo. Keep driving around with your allen wrench and reg. wrench and adjust it softer by a quarter turn, drive around again and it should slowly start to get better. Repeat the procedure until it stops surging and makes a clean 'sneeze' sound. :thumb:
 
97GS-TSpyder said:


i dont think it was...


bov does not gain you power period. unless your old bov was leakng all your boost out, but even then its just fixing the problem... if ur stock bov is working properly then really there is no point to change unless you want to up the boost when you get more engine mods... because stock 2g can hold shit, and stock 1g can hold only so much (mine leaked continously and was the cause of lots o problems so i got a hks ssqv and it fixed my idle problems boost problems and stalling problems.

overall IMO i like the hks bov better than the greddy... just a matter of sound taste...

I still want to hear a tial one tho, havent heard that one yet
 
You could obviously tell it was sarcasm by looking at his original post. I was answering the second part as everyone else already answered the first.
 
I got pretty big gain on my car after i put this BOV. It could be that my old stock BOV was leaking, but guys, this is totaly different car now, i swear. Greddy is way to go..... :thumb:
 
WSU99GSX said:
Not going to kick that dead horse, but search on that before you hook it up.

On the GReddy BOV's, there are nipples on both the top and bottom of the diaphram. When hooking it up the bottom hose, always use the one-way restrictor supplied by GReddy(or get one at your local parts store). When pressure builds in the manifold, there is equal pressure on both sides of the diaphram. And since "force = pressure X area" the larger area on top of the diaphram develops greater force holding the valve closed(assisting the spring). As boost rises, the more tightly it is held closed.

But, as soon as you let off, manifold pressure drops, in turn dropping the pressure on the top of the diaphram. Since full pressure remains in the lower chamber, the valve instantly pops open- "blowing off".

It's not that hard to understand really. The MR2 BOV relies on the 2 chamber concept alone, without the use of the spring. In the case of the GReddy BOV, the differential pressure activation is just assisting the spring, making its operation more efficient.
 
91boost said:
On the GReddy BOV's, there are nipples on both the top and bottom of the diaphram. When hooking it up the bottom hose, always use the one-way restrictor supplied by GReddy(or get one at your local parts store). When pressure builds in the manifold, there is equal pressure on both sides of the diaphram. And since "force = pressure X area" the larger area on top of the diaphram develops greater force holding the valve closed(assisting the spring). As boost rises, the more tightly it is held closed.

But, as soon as you let off, manifold pressure drops, in turn dropping the pressure on the top of the diaphram. Since full pressure remains in the lower chamber, the valve instantly pops open- "blowing off".

It's not that hard to understand really. The MR2 BOV relies on the 2 chamber concept alone, without the use of the spring. In the case of the GReddy BOV, the differential pressure activation is just assisting the spring, making its operation more efficient.

Yup sure, that is why in a number of posts Greddy, they people who made the BOV, are quoted as saying not to hookup the nipple. Also it works so well they added the lower nipple to the new Type-RS, er wait no they didn't......not that hard to understand.
 
marcmsj said:
only way to gain power with your bov is if you put a huge greddy sticker on the back of your car. that should give you 80 whp :thumb:

At least 100 if the sticker is on a CF wing.
 
WSU99GSX said:
Yup sure, that is why in a number of posts Greddy, they people who made the BOV, are quoted as saying not to hookup the nipple. Also it works so well they added the lower nipple to the new Type-RS, er wait no they didn't......not that hard to understand.

The type-s and type-r BOV's were designed to utilize BOTH upper and lower diaghram chambers. The lower is just not necessary as the spring does a suffient enough job. I am just one of those that believe the lower chamber will assist the spring in doing its job efficiently. To each his own. ;)
 
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