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Ghost_GSX

10+ Year Contributor
130
1
Jan 2, 2011
Hubert, North Carolina
So I got my 6-bolt motor in my 96 gst today. Took a few trys and she ran fine. Idle was at 2k but I wasn't too worried at that moment. Took a roll around town and she ran good as far as driving around (spun 1st and sometimes 2nd). Got back home and adjusted the throttle cable on the back of the intake manifold, and now she idles normal but has no go at all. When I rev it in neutral it climbs the rpms really slow.

But I did get it running. :hellyeah:

I'm running a stock t-25, Greddy 24v fmic, 1g bov (yes its recirculating), 1g tb, 1g intake minifold, 99 flash-able ecu from my gsx

The worst thing was my starter went out and it was a freebie from a friend so now I have to go buy one.:(

Can anyone diagnose the problem?
 
No. My stock gauge is reading boost but its not reading as much as it did before.
Driving it back home I was in 5th gear at 1k rpms and it was at the the 2nd line from the top.
I was reading through a few posts and i read the coolant temp sensor could cause a problem like this also.
A friend told me I should check my timing, and another said I might be running to rich.
 
I don't think I'm feeling fuel cut. It does smoke a bit like its running rich.
I think I might be leaking oil from the external oil cooler as well but I dont think that would be my issue
 
As Josh said, a boost leak test is a good idea. The stock boost gauge is just a guesstimate of how much boost you are running. Boost leaks cause you to run rich, so that may very well be possible. You've messed with piping, do a blt and get back to us.
 
Yea, what did you do with the throttle cable?

Usually to adjust idle it's wither the BISS screw on the TB or in tuning software.

If you messed with the cable and it is only opening the throttle a little bit that can amount for a slow rev.
 
Yea, what did you do with the throttle cable?

Usually to adjust idle it's wither the BISS screw on the TB or in tuning software.

If you messed with the cable and it is only opening the throttle a little bit that can amount for a slow rev.

I adjusted its position on the back of the manifold
moved it slightly towards the tb
 
I agree. If your moved it too far towards the TB its most likely not opening all the way. If it was running fine before you moved it theres a good possibilty that could be the culprit.
 
During the boost leak test make sure your checking for leaks around the bov and any connections on the intercooler piping. If you got even have a tiny leak in those areas you'll feel it on acceleration. It also wouldn't hurt to checkl all your vacuum lines and make sure those are all connected correctly seeing as you just put in the 6 bolt it wouldn't hurt to double check those either.
 
Update:
Tachometer is Not reading Correctly (Tach reads ~900 when actual RPMs is at ~1900).
Car dies at Cruising speed when I press on the clutch and hold it for about a minute or so.

Any more suggestions?
(And please no BLT answers)
 
The boost guage you've got it said your running 0 vacuum? Where did you tap the line for the gauge into? BTW Its kinda hard not to tell you its a boost leak when that is more than likely the problem. Also when you did the 6 bolt swap and wired up the CAS did you set your timing with a timing light?Did you set the TPS?


Alot of things need to be checked before giving it hell.





Jesse
 
TPS is Set.
Haven't set Timing yet. (don't own a Timing light)
Car was Wired by previous owner for a 6-bolt swap
I highly doubt a Boost leak will cause my RPMs to be way off.
Boost Gauge is tapped into the TB at A1.
My thought is the 0 Vacuum is coming from my High Idle, which makes sense knowing my Tachometer is off. What could cause the Tach to be reading off?
 
At idle you should have about 20" of mercury(with stock cams). If your boost gauge reads zero at idle and it's plumbed correctly (manifold vacuum not ported vacuum )
Than you have a boost/vacuum leak.
And yes a vacuum leak right off the intake manifold like a broken or mis-aligned intake gasket WILL cause your idle to race AND make your car stall.
 
At idle you should have about 20" of mercury(with stock cams). If your boost gauge reads zero at idle and it's plumbed correctly (manifold vacuum not ported vacuum )
Than you have a boost/vacuum leak.
And yes a vacuum leak right off the intake manifold like a broken or mis-aligned intake gasket WILL cause your idle to race AND make your car stall.

I don't think You are reading everything I have been saying. A BLT is not going to be my answer.

My thinking is electrical. I may not know a whole lot about these cars, but being mechanically inclined I don't think "AIR" will screw with my RPMs as I described as above.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
At idle you should have about 20" of mercury(with stock cams). If your boost gauge reads zero at idle and it's plumbed correctly (manifold vacuum not ported vacuum )
Than you have a boost/vacuum leak.
And yes a vacuum leak right off the intake manifold like a broken or mis-aligned intake gasket WILL cause your idle to race AND make your car stall.

thats what i was going to post :rocks:
 
ok.. lets start over.

1. Check your timing, Barrow or buy a timing light. timing is a very important part. 2g's are 8 deg BTDC
2. You obviously have a boost leak for the 235434 time. Could be multiple things piping to FIAV to the TB needing rebuilt ect ect. This will cause the high idle, throttle problems ect.
3. Your RPM issue 2gs have two places it gets RPM signals, One is the Crank Angle sensor on pin 89. The other is the Ignition Pulse detect signal on pin 58.(ECU PINS) If your RPM is off You can check the cas that has been wired in. It now takes the place of your crank sensor, it may not be shielded.



I really don't know why you have not taken any of the advice given, and keep insisting all who have given advice are wrong. You must know alot more than i do.
 
I don't think You are reading everything I have been saying. A BLT is not going to be my answer.

My thinking is electrical. I may not know a whole lot about these cars, but being mechanically inclined I don't think "AIR" will screw with my RPMs as I described as above.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

That's great your gonna need it with these cars. I've owned one for 6 years now and it's been constant maitanence.

I myself have been a diagnostic tech for the last 10 years and to me a vacuum leak WILL cause ALL of those problems. Check your injector seals. Check your intake gasket.
Best way is a boost leak tester and some soap and water in a spray bottle.

Trust me.
 
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