2G Gold metal flakes in oil.

[MattiaFTW]

Hi all,

Thought it was about time for a new oil change. Last one was around 2k miles ago, I know it's pretty quick but I like to keep my engine happy as it is daily driven and put to a lot of stress. Built the enigine not more than 5k miles ago.New everything only crank was not changed, but polished to correct clearance. Changed the oil for the first time after 600 miles and changed it again somewhere around the 2k miles mark. Didn't check the oil second time( I know my bad) but I checked it today. Apart from a couple of mini gold flakes, I also found around 4 bigger pieces. 1 seemed transparent, 1 yellow and transparent and 2 just bigger gold flakes. In oil filter nothing apart from standard mini flakes. No big pieces in the filter nor the housing.

Any suggestions what the bigger pieces could be? Turbo is within tolerances in radial play. + Is made of as, ceramic and steel. So the turbo bearing is almost impossible. The plastic pieces are pretty hard and brittle. Just really don't understand how it can be this yellow/gold.

Thanks in advance, there is some info on my profile but not that much. If you need any info feel free to ask.

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[MattiaFTW]

All bearing look decent. Now changed them all but have some trouble with rear main. Ik update when and how end of the weekend

 

[curt-s]

Debris went thru those bearings. Did you clean everything before assembly? When it comes back from a machine shop, it is not thoroughly clean. It is a MUST to be surgically clean.
Did you clean the dead end throws of the crank you used? They hold a lot of crap so it is very important.
Pull your Balls to properly clean your Crank | DSMtuners.com https://share.google/c9n0NMZglqA6A8mNE

Indeed. This was from a crank that was stock but just polished and 100k km on it. I think I ran 7 cans of break cleaner through each passage and behind the balls until it was what I would consider clean.
Now imagine if that loosened and went through bearing clearances.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Its easily overlooked but VERY important. Glad you took the time and $ (7 cans). That's about the amount that it usually takes me too. In fact, I have a crank that needs cleaned right now, as the machinist called and said my bore job was finished. I'll take pictures of what comes out of that crank (stock 6 bolt).
Here is the break in oil I use on all my rebuilds. Alot are old school flat tappet cam motors so it is SUPER important to have the zink and phosphorus in the oil. I run the 30wt for 500 miles then I use it again or go to the 20w50. Not all motors need a 50wt oil though,TBH.
You can see that I was able to get it through Amazon.

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[curt-s]

I used Driven BR40 for break-in and now use HR5 regularly.
I have no idea what my bearings look like. Schrodinger is my buddy.