Going to DSMLink need help.

[CheaCheaBoy]

I just bought a 20g.
It is installed, but running at stock boost.
I was going to tune with a SAFC with PTE 680s,
but a tuner said I can not run higher boost over 20PSI.

I also have a MAF-T, he said it is not recommended on a 2g.
Should I sell it or stay with the stock MAF.

I need help on what I have to buy. I already have a laptop.
And where can I find it for a good deal besides ebay.
Also how much will this run me?

 

[steve]

Find a real tuner. This one doesn't have a clue or you don't understand what he saying.
You run a huge risk on eBay buying a DSMLink. Use the classifieds here or buy it from one of their resellers.

Steve

 

[Enraged78]

I just bought a 20g.
It is installed, but running at stock boost.
I was going to tune with a SAFC with PTE 680s,
but a tuner said I can not run higher boost over 20PSI.

I also have a MAF-T, he said it is not recommended on a 2g.
Should I sell it or stay with the stock MAF.

I need help on what I have to buy. I already have a laptop.
And where can I find it for a good deal besides ebay.
Also how much will this run me?

Your tuner either did not provide you with enough information, or something is getting lost in translation between there and here.

While you CAN tune a SAFC with the PTE 680's, it is not recommended because you can't control injector deadtime. Larger injectors take longer to open, and the ECU's deadtime setting allows the computer to open them sooner to account for this. DSMLink allows you to set for deadtime, injector size, and WOT A/F ratio with very little effort.

As far as running over 20PSI, and the 2G MAF, he may be getting confused with the 1G and 2G models. First generation DSMs have a notoriosly small Mass Airflow Sensor. Once the 1G MAF goes above about 1600 HZ, it starts to behave erratically. It will 'drop' counts, and the ECU will start to act funny. Depending on your setup, this MAY happen around 20PSI on a 20G equipped 1G. 2G's are a slightly different story. While the 2G MAF is bigger, it also drops counts around 1800 HZ. DSMLink can account for this by using a MAF simulation mode that interpolates your airflow based on calculated boost estimate. As long as you don't have a nasty case of boost creep, this works very well (provided you remember to turn it on ).

As far as the MAFT goes, some people have some reservations about it, and I am included with those people. While the MAFT does a fine job of translating airflow, and can do it while pressurized, it does not report the correct temperature back to the ECU. All the MAFT versions I have seen report 80 degrees farenheit, all the time. This means that above 80 degrees you will run slightly rich, because air density is lower than the ECU expects. Below 80 degrees, you will run leaner as the temperature drops, because the air is more dense than the ECU expects. Now, the MAFT technically accounts for this based on its design, but the ECU will not account for air density correctly. If you live in a cold climate, and drive the car in sub zero temps, this may be a problem. Please note that I have NEVER seen a car negatively affected by this, but I prefer to err on the side of safety.

Some people will also tell you that the MAFT temperature effect is completely negligable, and not to worry about it. They are probably right, but this is still my opinion.

DSMLink and your stock 2G MAF would run great with the setup you have. Buy DSMLink from a reputable vendor, NOT EBAY, and look for a qualified tuner in your area. Seeing as how you're in the Mass area, I would highly recommend that you give Victor Research in East Hartford, Ct. a call. They are an incredibly qualified shop with an in house dyno, and they can even get you a good deal on DSMLink. DSMLink is in the neighborhood of $500, and you will need to get a socketed ECU. These can run anywhere between $50 (if you find one in a junkyard and they don't know what it is) all the way up to $400 or more.

Good luck,
Matt.

P.S. Fix your boost leaks!

 

[CheaCheaBoy]

Thanks Matt for all that info.

I am going to be in RI for college this fall, maybe we can hangout and cruise.
Bars huh? huh?


So in English,
The MAFT is not helpful. Temperature is also a factor that affects it.

Should I get rid of the MAFT since I am going to DSMLink?
I already bought an intake pipe for a blow-through setup.

Do you recommend keeping the MAFT?

 

[Staytuned]

You do not need the MAFT....it will only make tuning with DSMlink harder. It will mess with airflow signal and make dialing in the dead time and global fuel trims a nightmare. Ditch it and stick with a 2G MAS you will not out flow it and if you do in the future you can still use DSMlink to tune around that with MAF clamp feature.

 

[scottsee]

I bought my DSMlink setup via ebay last Christmas for $399, drop shipped from ECMtuning. I guess I was one of the lucky ones..

 

[Iroc_g]

Im runing DSMlink with MAFT. Although i have only rough tuned the car, and not had any dyno tuning done, i must say it works very well. I guess i would never know if im leaving something on the table unless i tried a stock MAF. I really like the features of the MAFT though. It locates the MAF in a better spot, and for the BOV freaks, allows yuo to vent to atmosphere without problems.

 

[steve]

I guess I was one of the lucky ones..

More than you can imagine.

Steve