GM-TRANSLATOR with S-afc

[CYCLONE]

Hey correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't you supposed to use a
B-body sensor. B-body=IMPALLA SS
IMPALLA V8
Lumina V6
Am i wright or wrong

 

[Hal]

Good catch.

I guess if I cared enough I would double check the actual part numbers since the 3" MAF was used in quite a few V6 applications.

Of course, even if they have the RIGHT part they probably got a used one from Ted's auto recycle and sheep rental emporium.

God knows, used parts are always the right part, always are in great operating condition and that the clod who went "out back" to get actually got the right part.

The MAF/MAFT is a great product/idea that's been well proven in the DSM world as well as the turbo Buick (G/N) world.

But then again, there must not be any fast Buick Grand Nationals either

Hal

 

[91nbtsi]

"I can tell you EXACTLY why you were getting boost creep.

When you get a lot of timing retard, combined with a excessively rich fuel mixture you wind up with fuel actually burning in the exhaust manifold.

Much like an anti-lag system.

Too bad your "tuner" couldn't figure that out."

My "tuner" is ME, the owner of the dyno and another experienced dsm guy. It is weird though how I tuned it leaner and leaner and got no improvement on the creep issue... Good theory though.

"As far as the MAF/MAFT goes, it sounds like a bad install or setup.
Was the white wire hooked up, and if so to what?

Was the purple wire hooked up, and if so to what? "

HA ok, It was installed correctly. I had the tach wire hooked up to my tach wire on my transistor, under the coilpack. And the AUX wire was not hooked up to anything.

"What was the settings on ALL of the dials (including AUX) as well as the dip switches?

What OTHER things (like an AFC) were hooked up at the time, and what were those settings?

Was the MAF hacked (h/c removed and/or ported)?"

My settings on the translator were, the main setting was 7 I believe, and the rest were all at 0. I just used the trans to get a close base, or so I thought and used my AFC to do the rest. The dip switches were set to a 3" MAF, fuel cut was off, AUX was off..all correctly switched, like I said before I checked everything over.

"The symptoms you describe are indicative of a boost leak AFTER the MAF (split coupling comes to mind), or the MAFT was setup for "contoured fuel enrichment)."

Well, I pressure tested everything to 20psi, a few small leaks at various hoses etc, BUT they were fixed before even starting my car with the translator.

"The MAF/MAFT works great for me, and I'm pretty sure I make more power than you do, even at over a mile above sea level (122 mph traps in a 3460lb car)."

You are awesome. I just got my car running after building my engine, and a whole new turbo setup. I made 350hp @15psi on pump gas, while running 10:1 A/F. There is much more power to come. If you wish to back up your "122mph" with some ET's, or a dyno number, so be it. As to your comment about us being supra's because my friend asked for dyno proof, You have no proof that the translator adds power or anything, IF you do, I would love to see some. I however have 38 pos dyno pulls that prove other.

"I don't suppose you guys even bothered to ask Ram Chargers for help either did you?"

I actually emailed them a week or 2 ago, no response.

"You guys had a problem, couldn't figure it out, so the product is "junk" even though a large number of people are using it with a great deal of success. "

Any proof of this success??? Lets see some proof. Anyone can say, oh yeah the car feels way better, but I'm not buying it without either a track time, or dyno numbers.

"Oh well, I guess it must be junk then since your "tuner" is such an expert. "

Yeah, thats it. No the translator is junk because it didn't perform. I am my tuner, and I am not an expert like you seem to think you are. I am however a 3rd year ME student, and have been tuning DSM's for years now...I do have quite a bit of knowledge under my belt.

"Good catch.

I guess if I cared enough I would double check the actual part numbers since the 3" MAF was used in quite a few V6 applications.

Of course, even if they have the RIGHT part they probably got a used one from Ted's auto recycle and sheep rental emporium.

God knows, used parts are always the right part, always are in great operating condition and that the clod who went "out back" to get actually got the right part.

The MAF/MAFT is a great product/idea that's been well proven in the DSM world as well as the turbo Buick (G/N) world.

But then again, there must not be any fast Buick Grand Nationals either

Hal"

I pulled the sensor off of a running lumina 3.1l...which is the correct sensor. Hal, What have you got that says the MAFT is soo well proven in the DSM world??? Grand Nationals are quite a bit different. And yes there are many fast grandnationals, as well as DSM's, however I haven't seen a fast dsm with the translator on it yet

Do you work for Ramchargers or something??? you seem to be backing this product up quite emotionally. I am just telling it how it was on my car. That is it.

Nate

 

[Hal]

Because you couldn't make it work, you call it junk.

Other people tell you it works for them, and you make excuses because you make so much more horsepower than them.

Sorry, if you would have posted that you had a problem, and needed help you would have gotten a different response.

Instead the "it didn't work for ME so it's junk" just makes you sound totally clueless. You add to that perception when you totally discount the fact that it works for other people (as has been posted in this thread).

You had an issue with it. Maybe you got a lemon, it happens with all products. Maybe you had another problem, I wasn't there so I can't say.

But making blanket statements like you've done doesn't get your problem solved and doesn't encourage people to offer you help.

After all, you OBVIOUSLY know what you are doing, and the rest of us don't.

No, I don't work for Ram Chargers, but I have MAFT's on all of my DSM's. My third one arrived this morning. But what the hell, I don't know anything either since you have a college degree.

That's it! You have a college degree, so you must be correct 100% of the time. You will never make a mistake, or be incorrect for the rest of your life.



Hal

- btw college boy, the white wire goes to the CAS not the coil, go read the installation instructions once again

 

[Ramchargers]

If you call Martin at AMS he did a dyno test on a car that was perfectly tuned on his dyno with a wide band Air Fuel meter and a fully hacked 1G sensor. I did not expect hugh gains since the car was tuned well and already had a good deal of restriction removed from the hacked MAF. He got a 9HP improvment most of the way across the dyno chart at exactly the same boost and A/F ratio. This is good enough for me. Cars not as well tuned or with unmodified sensors will do much better. I am not sure why you went blow through. But I suspect this is why you had boost creep, less inlet restriction and not enough wastegate now. I never got an e-mail about someone having a problem like yours, I did not see a post on our Yahoo support group, and my phone works as well. I am very sorry you had a problem but we now have over 400 units in the field and no one else is complaining about these issues including some of the most well respected folks in the game. If you are not happy and want a refund let me know we will do it, no problem.
Mike

 

[Ramchargers]

In my experience so far I have not seen the need for a S-AFC in fact most of the guys having problems have one. More than enough tuning on the translator to do the job
Mike

 

[91nbtsi]

"- btw college boy, the white wire goes to the CAS not the coil, go read the installation instructions once again"

BTW, maybe you should look at the instructions again, all it needs is a tach signal. It clearly states you can hook it to the CAS or to transistor.

Did I ever say I knew everything because im in college?? You need to settle down bud

Ramchargers: I did write an email to you or your company I do not know who recieves the emails. I clearly stated the problems I was having and asked what you could do about it or what I could do about it. I didn't recieve any response. I sold the unit no problem already so no need to worry about a refund or anything. That was my theory for the creep problem, having it in a blowthrough set-up. I had it like that for lesser intake restriction and just to try it out. Sorry for the bad review, I am sure that it works much better in a regular pre-turbo setup. It is a very good concept and I am sure it works great, because why would you have put them on the market if they didn't It just didn't perform in my setup and wasn't doing what I needed in my setup.

Hal: CHILL. And please don't make any more in-mature college boy remarks, especially incorrect ones.
Thanks.
Nate

 

[Hal]

You are correct, page 2 shows you can use the tach signal, but the last page under "troubleshooting" says CAS. I stand corrected.

All of the installations I have seen use the CAS.

As far a college goes, you brought it up remember? Touting like it made you more "knowledgable".

You sold the unit? Something you claimed was a POS. Instead of sending it back you unloaded your "junk" on someone else?

I wonder how well it's working in his car? Probably pretty good since he obviously doesn't make nearly as much horsepower as you do eh?

You want me to chill, sure no problem. I think all of the points have been well made.

Hal

 

[91nbtsi]

Are you going to give up yet? I was just using the college to show that im not some retard that just threw this thing in and am pissed now because it doesn't work. Read my last post it clearly states my thoughts, no need to ramble on again. Since when did I say I had sooo much power????? You were the guy claiming to run "122 trap speeds." I just asked for some real proof from you since you think the MAFT is so godlike. You gave me none, except to come back and get pissed off. Like I said read my last post, I am sure you will find every feeling I had about the MAFT in it. Why is it a problem I sold it, It is has been very proven in the DSM world hasn't it Hal? I see no problem with selling it. I think it would have worked better in my application with a 3.5" sensor in a pre-turbo setup. Is it ok to you Hal that I wasn't satisfied with the MAFT? or are you going to get mad at me? Im happy that you like it, that is great. I just didn't see any improvments with it how I had it set up. More power to you.
Nate

 

[Ramchargers]

No problem for the bad review I can't expect them all to be good I only wish we would have had a chance to help you with the problem. I am sure we could have fixed it. If I can help you in the future please let me know
Mike

 

[91nbtsi]

Thank you Mike.

 

[crvttc5r]

This thread is like a soap opera i just sat here for 25 min and read the whole thing getting excited just to read the next post.


-matt

 

[16g-95gsx]

Anyone wanna help me fix my problem?

Here is what I posted on DSMtalk, I'm trying to get some responses to hopefully fix my problem.

"Anyway. At WOT like I said for the logs I got in 3rd gear pulls, from 3k to 4.5k, which by the way took quite a long time actually as the car was pulling like absolute ass, gave me .88-.85v on the O2, I cant log knock since I'm a 2g using a pocketlogger, but my timing dropped like normal, then rose to 23* then dropped and leveled off at 21 for the rest of the pull, just about every time. Keep in mind I was only pushing .6kg/cm^2 during these runs, which is about 8.5psi (the profec B turned off completely). My egt's didnt reach over 700*C. The car had a definate hesitation feeling, where you could feel the timing etc jumping all over, and the car just overall felt more sluggish than I've probably ever felt it, aside from a bad boost leak. Hope that helps. I'm trying to get responses from people, to hopefully diagnose this crap. I'm running 625cc injectors with a 255lph pump and the Safc zero'd out so I cant imagine DC should matter at this point. Like I said I have the Base setting on the translator at +10%, and the idle at +5% (YES I KNOW THIS IS RICH A HELL, but seriously it will idle like I have 272 cams if I try to lean it out, and my ST FT goes to about 17% any other way). Right now my ST FT at idle is about -1 to 1%.

Also, to try to help this problem, I later added about 7% fuel from 3k up on the Safc on the high settings, and it still was giving those horrible readings.

Am I correct by tapping this RPM signal wire into the 4th wire of the 7 wires on what I believe to be the power transistor? It's the 2g harness type plug near the ignition coils. The two LED's come on the translator when I start the car up, so I'd imagine I'm getting a signal, I just wanna make sure I have the right wire. It's a solid white wire."