Getting boost way to late, plz help!

[OneFastGST]

i finally got around to tuning.. and seems as though im not getting full boost till about 6200RPM's.... what could cause this? i have the AGP RS49 and when the turbo was shipped to me i had to assemble the wastegate, so who knows if i did it right, it looked right though [= there are a series of nuts on the wastegate, and the rod that connects to the flapper is adjustable... could that be the reason why im getting boost so late? Or could it be the boost controller? i am at a loss?! i dont know what to do!

PLZ HELP

 

[oldman]

1. Did you pressure test after the turbo install? If not do one, unless you feel really lucky.

2. The arm could be a little too long keeping the wastegate to open slightly. Use a white out and mark the wastegate lever as it sits, remove the arm and see if the mark moves. Any slight change will make a big difference. If this is the case, you can either shorten the arm half turn at a time until the door closes TIGHTLY or you can loosen the compressor housing bolts and rotate it a little until it tightens up.

Do the leak test either way, it's a must after a job like turbo install. Good luck.

 

[CMiuc12s]

(2. The arm could be a little too long keeping the wastegate to open slightly. Use a white out and mark the wastegate lever as it sits, remove the arm and see if the mark moves. Any slight change will make a big difference. If this is the case, you can either shorten the arm half turn at a time until the door closes TIGHTLY or you can loosen the compressor housing bolts and rotate it a little until it tightens up.)

I agree with oldman, it sounds like that your wastegate lever is really loose and you need to tighten it quit a bit! And do a leak test! Better safe then sorry!

 

[OneFastGST]

2. The arm could be a little too long keeping the wastegate to open slightly. Use a white out and mark the wastegate lever as it sits, remove the arm and see if the mark moves. Any slight change will make a big difference. If this is the case, you can either shorten the arm half turn at a time until the door closes TIGHTLY or you can loosen the compressor housing bolts and rotate it a little until it tightens up.

Do the leak test either way, it's a must after a job like turbo install. Good luck.

ive already done a boost leak test, but im not really understanding what you are explaining to me, after i make the white out mark where the arm is now, what do yu mean by "remove the arm"? also, how do i know when the door is completely closed or not?

Thanks everybody for your help!!!!!!!

 

[oldman]

ive already done a boost leak test, but im not really understanding what you are explaining to me, after i make the white out mark where the arm is now, what do yu mean by "remove the arm"? also, how do i know when the door is completely closed or not?

Thanks everybody for your help!!!!!!!

I'm talking about white lining the wastegate lever against the housing, not the actuator arm. Remove the arm from the lever and check and see if the white line on the lever and the turbine housing is still lined up. If it doesn't line up after you remove the actuator arm, it means the wastegate was not fully closed with the arm on probably due to the arm being too long. I hope I made it clear.

 

[adidas_coin]

Im having a similar issue after my auto to 5speed swap. peak boost @ around 4k, nuthig was changed as far as the wastegate ect. I also need help.

 

[adidas_coin]

sorry, peak @ 5k plus.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Shorten the wastegate arm until it is so short that it is almost impossible to get back onto the flapper.

 

[oldman]

I seriously doubt he has an adjustable actuator on his 16G.

 

[CanadianTSi]

I seriously doubt he has an adjustable actuator on his 16G.

My Response was to the OP

 

[DSM90AWD]

My Response was to the OP

Well you're two years late on that one then

 

[CanadianTSi]

Well you're two years late on that one then

Hah Damn, got me on that one.

 

[meeklo1569]

someone wrote .. turn the compressor housing from the hotside after unloosening that clamped bolted thing .. (keeps the turbo together) hence it'll short the legth from the coolside to the flapper.. keepin it shut, that does make sense.. but who knows whats goin on under that hood when your driven underload boostin.. turbo cars are work

 

[adidas_coin]

mine was fixed by shimming the diaphragm away from the turbo. just so the flapper would be closed at idle. Now however. im getting some smoke after a good rev. turbo damage from the flapper being stuck open for a week(little driving)??? Need help.

 

[DSM90AWD]

Now however. im getting some smoke after a good rev. turbo damage from the flapper being stuck open for a week(little driving)??? Need help.

There is zero possibility that the flapper having been stuck open has damaged your turbo (e.g. little/no boost). More likely that as you are now seeing regular boost pressure, you're crankcase is being over-pressurized (PCV valve bad/blocked off), have high oil pressure or there is a restriction in the turbo oil drain (or can not function correctly due to the first two items listed)

 

[adidas_coin]

Pcv is vented, haven't checked drain tube yet, any other ideas or you think it has to be the drain tube?