any way to reduce boost on 16g turbo?

[97grnrs]

I am now stuck on the side of the highway the car has lost all spark and no fuel I am going to get it towed and try a camshaft position sensor otherwise I don't know what happened

 

[96awd16g]

It seems as though most people are going around your boost creep issue and just asking if its tuned for it. Personally I don't give a damn if its tuned, I'd fix my creep issue so its controllable before moving on.

Verify your wastegate hose is tight, and no holes/cracks (a leak would certainly cause this). Next pull the wastegate arm off the flapper on the turbine housing and verify that it moves freely. If all checks out, its time to buy so gaskets and do some porting. I went from all sorts of creep issues (could not keep it under 16-17 psi) and then ported my manifold, turbine housing, and tubular o2 (had some rough transitions and areas I wasnt satisfied with) and I now can hold 10 psi if desired, along with a noticeable decrease in spool times (especially building boost on the converter).


Fix the real issue, band-aids are for children and wounds.

Check the connectors on your ecu first since it was just out.

 

[97grnrs]

the car has no tachometer signal when cranking and no oil pressure gauge movement when cranking either

 

[honda_burner]

It seems as though most people are going around your boost creep issue and just asking if its tuned for it. Personally I don't give a damn if its tuned, I'd fix my creep issue so its controllable before moving on.

Verify your wastegate hose is tight, and no holes/cracks (a leak would certainly cause this). Next pull the wastegate arm off the flapper on the turbine housing and verify that it moves freely. If all checks out, its time to buy so gaskets and do some porting. I went from all sorts of creep issues (could not keep it under 16-17 psi) and then ported my manifold, turbine housing, and tubular o2 (had some rough transitions and areas I wasnt satisfied with) and I now can hold 10 psi if desired, along with a noticeable decrease in spool times (especially building boost on the converter).


Fix the real issue, band-aids are for children and wounds.

Check the connectors on your ecu first since it was just out.

The way it sounds is as though someone already tuned it to work WITH the boost creep as opposed to AGAINST it. He would be running stupid lean at 20psi if not hitting fuel cut.

 

[honda_burner]

I am now stuck on the side of the highway the car has lost all spark and no fuel I am going to get it towed and try a camshaft position sensor otherwise I don't know what happened

If you have no tach and no oil pressure gauge, it sounds ecu related, however if your going to try a sensor, I personally would start with the crank sensor. Those go bad more often than the cas

 

[96awd16g]

Easiest way to lower boost, get a 14b wastegate actuator. It will lower boost to around 9-10...

That's only IF you do not have a MBC in which you can adjust to boost by turning the knob counter-clockwise, and IF you do do not have an adjustable wastegate.

The only other way would be to run an external wastegate and then your talking about getting into a few hundred there IF you go new. If you would please post some pictures of your engine bay we can help diagnose any issues, and let you know what you have installed that we can see

If it is indeed boost creep, a 14b actuator will make little or no difference.

It could very well be tuned for it but personally I would not be comfortable with it til I could safely control boost. Not to mention he verified it is the oem eprom so doubtful its tuned anyway. And its not impossible to hit 19-20 psi with a 16g, on a 2g, untuned, and not hit fuel cut. I've done it more than a few times(not that I'd recommend anyone go try). When my wastegate line split, i hit 22-23 psi before fuel cut. As far as working with or against, boost creep is simply reaching the limits of what your wastegate can flow, in my terms that's a problem. I dont work with problems, I fix them(if you want to term that working against, feel free). Not to mention by making the wastegate flow better your certainly freeing up wasted energu, its no different than an open dump o2 making more power than a recirculated housing, an increase in flow will always make way for more power. So why "live with the problem" when you could fix it, properly control boost, and gain power? Theres simply no excuse not to, unless you lack tools or are lazy. I spend many hours of quality time with my die grinder and carbides, but I LOVE "free" power.

Have you checked ecu connections? Would explain tach signal, no fuel, and no oil reading considering they all depend on the ecu, thats where I would start.

 

[97grnrs]

lucky me, the balance shaft belt snapped and caused timing to jump ad bent valves.. i have the car at my shop right now and the head is off . im hoping to get another head tonight and fix. the piston got a bit marked up too but i gonna have to reuse them

 

[97grnrs]

well the cars all up and running. i put new balance shaft belt timing belt etc.. only head i could find was a slow boy racing head which i spent 400$ for plus gaskets etc.. i also wired in a first gen cam sensor cause the 2g ones were giving me alot of problems.. i added a cat also. car seems to run great right now. it boosts to 10psi and stays there no matter what. i dont know if im cutting myself short only running 10psi on the 16g. it has stock injectors and stock eprom ecu.. would is poss be still safe to run like 12psi and not have problems?? my wide band sometimes goes out under full throttle but its around 11 af ratio before it does.. i just hope the balance shaft belt doesnt launh again or im screwed cause i cant find anymore heads or valves around here. ARP head studs also