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Gauge cluster project

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Keeping the stock color of the needles?

If not, I used a razor to scrape off the paint on the backside of the needles and applied nail polish only on the back side to achieve white needles, looks great in the day! At night they still have a faint amber glow to them but still bright or even brighter than original.

G' luck and very creative:thumb:

Haven't decided yet what to do with the needles but I do at least need to scrape off the orange. Whether or not I will put another color on yet I have not decided. I'll figure that out when I get to that point.

I took pictures of the circuit board so I will know where the traces go. I figured out a few places that will need jumpers but I need to figure out if there are any traces that I do not need to worry about at all. That's for this weekend though if I get some of the parts I need.
 
I just got the other LED strip I need to finish up this job. I'll be working on it tomorrow and hopefully finishing it tomorrow. I completed the HVAC a few days ago and did a quick test in the car. Lights up perfectly and is nice and even. I used a LED strip with adhesive on the back of it and attached it around the inside edges of the HVAC controls (no longer can use the clear plastic piece there now) and then cut out a piece of white paper in the shape of the plastic piece and glued it to the back/bottom of the where the bulbs protrude. Painting may have worked better but it was easy enough to trace/ cut trim etc. Lights up nice and even. I was too excited and forgot to get pictures of it but I'll try to remember to take it apart and get some pictures.

For the main cluster I replaced three of the stock bulbs (ones I still had spots for) with LEDS. Bought some new twist locks and LED’s to fit in them. Those light up fine. The tachometer has two bulbs and is pretty even minus one spot. The speedometer only has one bulb. May have been able to save the second but didn’t think of it when cutting out the back. So, I bought another strip like the one I used in the HVAC. I will run it around the back of the speedometer opposite the bulb. Then I will cut part of that strip off and use the rest of it to fix the one slightly darker spot on the tachometer. Then everything should be good to go. I’ll get pictures of the twist locks, bulbs, strips and the before/ after pictures of the cut up circuit board.

For that, I am going to print off a copy of the picture and then I will draw on it where connections need to be made, where jumpers should go etc. Hopefully I can finish it tomorrow, or if not then on Sunday. Whether or not I will have it in the car though, I am not sure. Depends on the weather.

I'll try to make a write up with pictures once I am finished with it. I will put what part numbers I used etc. This is only for the gauge bulbs. I did not replace any of the idiot lights/ CEL, turn signals etc. Once I have the cluster out of the car I may look into those but I don't care about those being a different color as they usually are on most cars anyway.
 
I'm in the middle of doing this mod and have the fuel gauge still in, but may end up taking it out.

the question I have though is, I'm about to push back the flexi ribbon on the back to make some room for the new gauges. After reading your post you said you cut yours and jumpered the cuts. Can you tell me what you used for wire gauge to go between. I was concerned about using a too heavy gauge of wire and cause resistance. I like your faces and I'm using mix and match but painted to blend in.

Pic's didn't upload first time.
 

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Can you tell me what you used for wire gauge to go between. I was concerned about using a too heavy gauge of wire and cause resistance.

20-22 guage wire should do it. Actually smaller wire has more resistance than larger wire, then again it all depends on your draw. And the more strands the better.
 
Is it necassary to cut the circuit board for this mod? I have been wanting to do this mod but I don't want/feel like cutting the curcuit board, in fear of messing it up then I am screwed.
 
20-22 guage wire should do it. Actually smaller wire has more resistance than larger wire, then again it all depends on your draw. And the more strands the better.

Thanks for the gauge size. Yeah I know smaller wire bigger resistance, harder for the electrons to flow easily, I was half asleep, when I wrote the post. I have had a terrible week flying around the country with all these storms and haven't had much sleep:sosad: But thanks for pointing me in the direction I needed. :thumb:
 
For the gas gauge, well, I currently do not have one. The "Low Fuel" light still works though so it will still come on as needed. Normally, I only fix my cars completely up and I know about how many miles I get on a tank. Regardless, the low level light still works. I do plan to put a Cobalt gas gauge in but it will most likely go down around the radio.

As for cutting the electric board, some companies do make gauges that are not as deep or long. Those may work without having to cut the board. Or maybe some of the gauges that have a connector that plugs into the gauge. I'll have to see if I have any pictures of the circuit board. Mine was baically cut in half. I had a spare one though so I knew where all the traces went so I could rebuild them. Only thing I may change is I may go with smaller wire than I did. The wire I used is kind of thick and stiff. If you scratch too much off to get to the copper, then it can peel up.

Still works though, even after my car sat for a year and was not started.
 
Do you have any pictures of the wiring of the board after it was cut? or pictures of of what it looked like when it was done? im actually doing this now on my spare cluster and would like to see what traces go where and how you tapped them in. Thank you
 
OP looks awesome.... but what are you going to do about not having a fuel gauge?

This is what I did with mine:

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Do not need the factory boost gauge anymore so did some modifications and fit the factory fuel gauge where the old boost gauge was. Had to solder wire connections on the old original fuel gauge circuit board sheet and then ran them to the new location. Works great. EDIT: I should add the fuel gauge looks crooked only because thats the only way the sweep motor would fit in there around the tach and whatnot. I'll live with it being a bit askew for the sake of keeping the factory guage.

Nice work Eagle 5. Looks clean. I did not have to cut as much of my housing as you did. I tried to keep as much of it present as I could by using a hole saw to cut out behind each of the gauges.

Is it necassary to cut the circuit board for this mod? I have been wanting to do this mod but I don't want/feel like cutting the curcuit board, in fear of messing it up then I am screwed.

No need to cut any of the circuit board.
 

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This is what I did with mine:

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Do not need the factory boost gauge anymore so did some modifications and fit the factory fuel gauge where the old boost gauge was. Had to solder wire connections on the old original fuel gauge circuit board sheet and then ran them to the new location. Works great. EDIT: I should add the fuel gauge looks crooked only because thats the only way the sweep motor would fit in there around the tach and whatnot. I'll live with it being a bit askew for the sake of keeping the factory guage.

Nice work Eagle 5. Looks clean. I did not have to cut as much of my housing as you did. I tried to keep as much of it present as I could by using a hole saw to cut out behind each of the gauges.



No need to cut any of the circuit board.



What do you use for oil pressure? i never drive without checking that regularly
 

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What do you use for oil pressure? i never drive without checking that regularly

Oil pressure, Water temp and Trans temp are all down where the radio location is. I've had those down there for years.

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Is that and automatic AWD 1990????????????

Never seen an auto awd 90 or an auto 90 at all LOL.
 
Cobalts can get bright at night. Did this for a friend of mine using all Cobalts. (only shot I have left)
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The gauges come in 3 3/8" and 5" I believe. I'm not sure what the standard opening is on the stock bezel but it would probably have to be modified to fit the gauges. The openings for the 3 gauges I have had to be modified slightly for them to fit. The only thing I worry about removing my stock speedometer is losing the odometer on it.

Car has not been ran in about a year though as I'm about to start stripping her down and re-doing anything and everything on it the way I want. One issue will be when I get to the dash is whether I keep the stock dash and just do modifications to it, or whether I replace and make a custom type dash. I do want to replace the tach and speedometer but it would be nice if I could find a speedo with an odometer. I know some of the larger speedometers have a trip meter on them but that seems to easy to just reset it. Though, if I never decide to sell the car then it doesn't matter how many miles are on it.
 
Here's a full replacement cluster, including putting a compatible fuel sender in the tank
 

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Hal, is that your car.

Looks so good. If i redid my gauges I'd copy the RX7 layout (FD & FC). But i've learned after having a lot of these cars its the stock stuff that is the attraction, well somewhat.
 
It's been so long I don't remember the part number.

But is the one for the Autometer fuel gauge in the dash.

Replace the oem sender and removed the low fuel sensor.
 
Here's a full replacement cluster, including putting a compatible fuel sender in the tank

This is what I'm considering doing when I redo my car. Just haven't decided if I just want to keep the stock dash and just mount everything similar to what you did or if I will be replacing the dsh completely with something else.
 
hal i am curious as to what you had to do to get the aftermarket speedo to work with the 1g. i have been running over this in my head and looking through part to find something compatible with no good result.
 
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