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gas in my oil

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775TSI

10+ Year Contributor
148
0
Nov 8, 2009
Carson City, Nevada
Can a faulty intake manifold gasket cause gas to leak in my oil? I did a comp check we are 155 150 161 150. So pretty clean across the board. Couldn't access my injectors today to see if i have a cracked cap or broken injector. So i ask you, can a faulty / broken intake manifold gasket cause gas in my oil. I have read about 12 topics regarding this and have done just about everything suggested i could access today. What makes me lean towards IM gasket is the fact i have a small idle surge 1500 to 2000 on and off doesn't do it consistent, and on top of that my car wont boost past 9 PSI and if i boost 2nd n 3rd gear by 4th the psi drops to about 6-7.

Any suggestions would be great and ill keep reading on.
 
One thing I wonder about is if you already have a Walbro 255 in the tank, you chould check that out.
 
Shouldnt he be able to tell that from the humming?

I have a 255 Walbro in my Thunderbird, I do not hear it humm.... I would say of you can hear it humm ot may be a clue that you have one....

I have heard cheap auto parts store pumps humm too.

So I would say pull the pump and look and see .. then you know

And knowing is half the battle!
 
I'm having a similar issues right now.

I was leaving my friends house so I turned my car around in his drive way and drove to the end. While waiting for the traffic to clear it started to idle weird and the exhaust was pure white. When I opened my hood there was raw gas leaking out of every gasket on the exhaust side.

I ordered a FueLab AFPR but my stock was was fine after checking it so I never put it on. I tried My friends brand new injectors and swapped out my COP for his regular coil and wires, but still the same issue. The oil smelled with a strong gas odor now and was broken down to be pretty watery.I pulled the head off and the pistons had black gunk from the fuel that was puddling (assumption). I cleaned it off and cleaned the valves while at it and now the head is back on. Right now I'm going to make sure that there is no boost leaks and change the spark plugs. Might as well toss the new FPR on and I'm going to make sure the exhaust side is tightly sealed as well.

I'm looking forward to this thread possibly helping me out. I hope it isn't anything electrical. From what I read so far I might be replacing my TB since it's a mess and checking the sensors just to be safe. I might as well replace the PCV since thats cheap and the ECU seems to be fine. Going to check my o2 and fuel pump, and possibly buy a new turbo if I still can't figure it out.
 
Ok so. I read Calan's post and i 100% agree. I did back off with the upgrade path in mind and started to restore everything to factory and have looked into port tuners and data loggers. Right now with upgrades still in mind i am getting everything OEM or as close as possible and going to get the car into shape before even buying an upgrade. Also to your o2 sensor post, i have taken it to the shop and both my o2 sensors are acting up, my up and down stream. My up stream i was told is too close to the turbo and should be on the lower port not the one next to the turbo. I bought this car in this shape and it has been my project to restore it to its former glory before it was riced and messed with. I do how ever understand these are money pits after someone or yourself has attempted to do upgrades or hacks in which screwed with the motor.

So i replaced my TPS sensor and the idle cleared it self up alot but still crappy. My ECU temp sensor is bad and is going to be replaced soon. The shop told me that is a HUGE reason why it is running the way it is because the ECU is reading the engine is still in "warm up". Also another thing he stated was my aftermarket BOV leaking alot of my air the MAF has already told the ECU is in the system. So i am putting the BOV system back to OEM. My current turbo is blown so i am trading my 16G for a factory T25 which has been done. So in short after some gaskets new injectors and new sensors i feel i am very close because its almost to normal running. Since my car does drive around 13.8 i am confident i am close to solving the issues.

I am running NGK OE plugs and wires. Plugs gap .028
 
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Got my car tuned today. Still running pig rich, Mechanic says my MAF may be bad its not getting a signal. My TPS was adjusted from 14.4 to 2.7% and idle is around 900-1000. He wants me to get a FPR and adjust it down manually. Then he wants me to try and see if i can get my car to convert to E85
 
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Got my car tuned today. Still running pig rich, Mechanic says my MAF may be bad its not getting a signal. My TPS was adjusted from 14.4 to 2.7% and idle is around 900-1000. He wants me to get a FPR and adjust it down manually. Then he wants me to try and see if i can get my car to convert to E85

I think I'd look for another mechanic, or just keep learning and do this stuff yourself.

You don't need to be worrying about E85 until you can get the car running nicely on pump gas in stock condition.
 
well i found out today my boost gauge is bad and is leaking. Always heard a funny little noise when i was driving. Also some kind of murky liquid came from my gauges and spilled all down the inside of my door and pillar. Any ideas? Had to send my ECU temp sensor back was the wrong plug getting a new one by next week. Car boost really hard since i swapped out the BOV and took out the boost controller. For some reason tho my car runs / and idles around 14.5 to 15.5 but barely stays running. When i come to stops or as soon as i pull the gears to neutral the car dies and wont start back up unless i pump the gas pedal. I smacked my MAF a couple times when the car was running and the idle picked up and ran decent then dropped back to shit after about 30 seconds.

Quick info here. I did just do some reading on MAF and well all my honey combs are missing out of mine and it looks like the calibration screws has been tampered with. Is this something i should be concerned about?

Ran a BLT today. Results, Had a leak at the BOV flange, Fixed. My TB where the cable goes that hole spindle is leaking i can make the air change sounds when i move it around, So new TB will be ordered very soon. Back of throttle body there is a T for 3 vacuum lines, the one that goes to the TB leaked, Fixed. Those were the only leaks i found and could only fix two.

Shot in the dark here. Could my TPS % be affecting more of my problems? I read up that a typical % for a TPS should be around .5% and WOT should be around 4.5%. Mines around 3% and 10%
 
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Ok, replaced TB with a new rebuilt one. Ordered a new MAS and IACV. Car runs very bad and is pegged in the A/F wideband i would guess some where around 18.5+. Car almost seems like its got a vacuum leak but my BLT doesnt detect any. So confused on where to go.
 
Ok so ran a BLT today. The new TB i got was leaking alittle at the gasket, fixed it. Had 2 leaks at the UIC piping, fixed. My BOV is leaking, so im ordering a new one. I think there is more leaks my car wont hold the PSI i put in it so im going to keep testing.

haha update: Found several more boost leaks. One at the BOV, one at the turbo outlet to intercooler, and possibly one at the intercooler itself. Got a feeling im getting really close to being done with the boost leak test, just have to make sure after i fix them all i dont touch anything hahah
 
Hey
Check your fuel pressure regualator with a mighty vac testor. Does it hold Vac? Or Is the car sucking fuel into the manifold? Ha....Did you put on your AFPR yet? With your mods just run the factory FPR, I Do.
 
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replaced a bunch of sensors and CEL light went away for a week now its back.... This is getting old fast.

What CEL code is it? Go to local auto parts store and have them scan it. 95+ up ecu are OBDII. Also, you should check your o2 sensor & your ECU. Good possibility that your ECU is damaged (only basing this on the fact that you have replaced a fair amount of parts)
 
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