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Game Plan needed: Misfire issue

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GSXSixteenG

15+ Year Contributor
1,558
12
Jun 29, 2007
Buffalo, New York
Ok guys, I need help putting a game plan together to tackle a misfire issue. I've been away from my car for approximately 6 months and was having a no start problem. I sent (friend towed it for me) it to a shop to figure out the no start problem in which they did. Now it is running, everything from here on I have not seen or touched or heard. The car has a misfire issue, I would assume at idle and all rpms. I will give you all the information my mechanic gave me from tests he ran. I would have him look further into it, but I don't like to pay to have something done unless I can not figure it out.

"Car is currently running on stock injectors, one of my 750s wouldn't stop dumping fuel.

Compression test= (4)160, (3)163, (2)168, (1)170. Attempted to adjust fuel with dsmlink but did not affect misfire issue. Pulled plugs after running for a period of time, found:

Cyl 4- no fuel on plug
Cyl 3- fouled
Cyl 2- good
Cyl 1-starting to foul

Bought new plugs and switched ignition wires to rule out those possible issues, no difference in misfire. Adjusted fuel pressure up and down, still made no differences."

Ok, the car has sat for about a year since the rebuild, engine has no miles except idle and short drive to increase oil pressure to lube lifters. Cam inversion box on dsmlink made no difference.

So first on my list to check coils but that still leaves the fuel issue. Next would be look into the injectors to see if all are pulsing.

The car sits about 6 hours away in my mother's heated garage. Since I live and Buffalo and have a full-time job, I want to try and tackle this issue in a weekend. Once tax season is done, I will be making my voyage.

Sorry for the long write-up, this is as much as I know. Help me get a game plan together, I may know more or can email my mechanic. I did send him an email together with questions so I will add what he says when I find out. All my mods are in my profile. The quotes on this page is exactly from my invoice except simplified slightly.
 
What color was each plug? That could indicate a fuel issue depending on the coloration. It could be an issue of something as simple as a dirty fuel filter or incorrect plugs for your setup.
 
What color was each plug? That could indicate a fuel issue depending on the coloration. It could be an issue of something as simple as a dirty fuel filter or incorrect plugs for your setup.

Brand new NGKs. The invoice doesn't say which ones. It had the bpr7s at first that were brand new but sat in the car for about a year. He said cyl4 looked like the only cylinder not getting fuel.

I will have to look into the fuel filter. Could possibly be it because the car sat for a year and had half a tank of gas. And I know they tried to start it with the old gas.

I was actually thinking earlier that he may have forgotten that it had 272s but that still wouldn't explain the fouled plugs really.

Glad someone chimed in to keep this thread alive. Thanks!

So game plan so far in order would be:

Step 1: Fuel Filter
Step 2: Injector Pulse
Step 3: Test Coils
 
Yeah, starting a DSM with old gas isn't like starting an old pickup. You need about the same octane in the fuel to make the tune any good. After a year and a half, it was probably equivalent to regular unleaded. Replacing the fuel filter is only $20 so just do that. Also, properly check timing using a timing light. Compare it with what dsmlink shows. An issue like a timing belt being off a notch or two could cause those symptoms. Just some ideas.
 
Everything BTS said sounds good. The only thing I'd add is that old gas turns to 'varnish' and will clog everything, not just the fuel filter (which seems the most likely culprit right now). I'd recommend running some seafoam through the gas tank and vacuum line method (Suck some in through the brake booster vac line) to clean out the fuel lines and top end. You can run it through the oil as well to help blast out the sludge but remember to change the oil after a couple hundred miles if you do. You won't have to change oil if you just run it through the gas and vac though. The seafoam won't hurt any seals or anything, it just cleans all the deposits. It's amazing at the difference and it's cheaper and more effective than the almost non-helping fuel injector cleaner in a bottle. The only fuel injector system cleaner I've seen work runs between $50-100 and gets put on your car like an IV drip! It's expensive but it works but it's hard to do a comparison between it and seafoam since seafoam cures the same problem for $5 a can (and you get multiple applications from it...) but you choose.
 
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