G4CS Timing belt Installed!

[Atuca]

To begin I pulled out all of the bolts on the timing side of the engine and put them back in all torqued to spec and using blue loctite. The only bolts that didn't get blue loctite were bolts that got red loctite, like the crank bolt and the oil sprocket nut.

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I was told a new ARP crankshaft bolt was on its way, but the vendor kind of dropped off the side of the earth, issued no tracking number, and I couldn't keep waiting around all month for it to magically show up. I used the original ARP crank bolt I had, cutting the bolt threads til the point I could get the bolt threaded in the crank. It was still very snug, but could now thread in and out of the crankshaft, and the stock bolt still threaded in just as easily as before.

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The crank key was tricky to get into its groove. I spent a good 10-15 mins trying to figure out how to fit the sucker in there, but eventually it slipped in. I got the BS sprocket removed and replaced with a spacer, than the trigger plate, and than the crank sprocket. Got that bad boy tightened down using the shop rag between the crank and block trick.

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I lubed up the head real good, and recoated the camshafts with some assembly lube. I put the cam gear seals with the flat side facing out. Everywhere I could read, forms, haynes, FSM, no where could I find how the seal was supposed to go in, they all just say, it goes in. Hopefully I am right thought; flat side facing away from the engine. I made sure the engine had Piston 1 at TDC, and than with dowel pins on camshafts facing 12:00, I tightened the camshafts down, again with all blue locktite.

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Now onto my first timing belt job. And boy was I in for a surprise. For the first 6 hours of the day, I tried to get my engine's timing belt on and get everything to line up. Everytime it didn't line up, I just tried again from the begining. I thought maybe I had the tensioner wrong, or I had one of the gears wrong, or something. Everytime it seemed to be off by half a tooth or so.

Well after some heavy deliberating, searching the forums on how to do a timing belt, it accured to me that something very important had slipped my mind...

G4CS is a 2.4 and the 2.0 gears have to be remarked!!

Well I am posting this as a statement, but would appreciate this answered as if presented as a question. Based off the ExtremePSI picture, the mark is off by half a tooth further in the clockwise position than it is on a 2.0 gear. (Different color Fidanza than I have, but you get the idea.)

2.4:
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2.0:
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I counted teeth and used that logic. When I set my exhaust camshaft free, it still wanted to rotate one tooth counter clockwise as mentioned in all the timing belt threads. ASSUMING I am right, I got the timing belt done, spun the engine 6 times and everything still lines up, no valves hit, everything is very smooth.

You can see on the close up of the exhaust and intake cam, half a tooth clockwise would be perfectly lined up, and parallel to the head. And the crankshaft and oil pump still line up perfectly as well. (I timed the oil pump just because, the perfectionist in me wouldn't not let it be )

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There is about 4.1mm protruding out on that tensioner, right in the middle of the fsm numbers of 3.8mm and 4.5mm. That took a few tries, I just used my hands, no tensioner pulley tool, to set the tensioner pulley. vfaq said I could, and as I had no way to thread the tensioner tool into the arm anyways, setting the tensioner pulley woulda been double hard even with the tool. Assuming the tensioner protruding the right amount out is verification of being correct tension, I should have everything set right I believe. Again with the blue loctite, keeping that tensioner pulley set for years to come should be locked in place.

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Can someone, PLEASE comment on when remarking the 2.0 timing gears using the 2.4 as a basis, it was half a tooth in the clockwise direction?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-0l-cam-gears-2-4l-engines.html#post152144718

If so, than here is the completed long block.


This doesn't really belong in this blog, but hey look at my 4g63 Oil pump pick up, pretty snazzy eh? I couldn't just cut off and leave half of a arm sticking out, so I did my best to grind it all down, leaving some there as to make sure I didn't put any holes in the pick up tube on accident. I like it though

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Once I get verification on the base timing, I can look into the final steps and preperation for my engine. Wiring harness is at the point of needing the engine in the car to finish, and I got all the cool plugs for blocking up all the holes left from removed components from the vehicle. HUGE thanks goes out to Eric and Brian again for finding OEM plugs to tidy up the look.

The light!!! I CAN SEE THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL!!!!

 

[jjrock5]

Gray RTV on that Balance shaft tensioner pulley bolt/plug!!!

Can you please PM me with which vendor you are having issues with? Im dealing with that same thing and I'd like to cover my bases before I make anymore buys. Thanks.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

We got the same cam gears,.. I just ordered mine from maperformance last week. Still havnt gotten them yet. Good job on the build, im doing a 4g64 tho, and should have the engine back from the machine shop early next week.. Keep up the good work

 

[dacowgod]

You honestly need to degree your cams ..Rather than remarking your cams.. you can also just advance both cam's 3.5 degrees ..HKS are usually pretty consistent when it comes to grind, but if you had your head shaved, or block decked or an other than stock head gasket..the geometry of your engine will be different, so your cam angle will be off.

We just put my buddies engine together this weekend to find that his exhaust cam was off by 5 degrees (thats almost a full tooth!) and the intake was off 2 degrees as well.


Good luck w/ the rest of your build... the g4cs is a beast I love mine

 

[Atuca]

I spent all my car time yesterday getting tools and degreeing cams. I'll go into more detail but with a decked block and decked head for the metal .051" MLS Cometic head gasket, I wasn't surprised to see that I needed to degree 6* retard on the intake.

I need to get the exhaust lined up and see where to go from there. If I find that I need to retard the exhaust 6* as well, I think I will probably just put the intake at 3* and the exhaust around 5*. for a net of 2* exhaust retard.

Not sure if that is how you are supposed to do it, but it looks to me more retard on exhaust than intake = more mid range without top or bottom end loss AND advance on intake and exhaust will give more bottom end.

I am assuming degreeing such small increments without a dyno shouldn't hurt anything, and maybe help? I just need to get the car started really. I will document exactly what "stock" degrees were and when I can get to the dyno, do a real tune and degree there.

 

[gyd23]

interesting! good stuff!
how did you get to figure out the degree'ing of the cams?

 

[teddyninja13]

What timing belt do you use for this build?

 

[Atuca]

used a 2.4 4G64 OEM mitsubishi belt.