G4CS Short Block Assembly

[Atuca]

Well yesterday was a fun day!

While I had to wait for a friend with the tools to work on the pistons rings, I contemplated what I could work on. So I just began preparing the block.

First off I tried to get working on the Balance Shafts. The bearings are stuck in the block and I tried to get them out. I was told to use a 32mm socket, but when I used mine it was too small, it just barely fit through the bearing. I don't have any other ideas how I am gonna get it out of there, I am open to ideas folks..

So than I started working on installing the crank. Just to document, for my sake, the oil clearences for the crank, I decided to use some plastic gauge on the crank.

*EDIT*
DO NOT PUT LUBE ON THE BACK OF THE BEARINGS!!! I SPENT THE FOLLOWING NIGHT REDOING MY CRANK BECAUSE OF THIS!!

I liberally applied red line assembly lube on the crank and mains and pressed in the standard bore ACL race bearings. Grooved bearings go into the block, non grooved go into the caps, and the bearing with the raised flanges went on bearing no. 3, or the middle one.

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Once those were put in, I drop the crank in WITHOUT lube, just a small piece of plastic gauge, than put on the caps. I tightened down the ARP main studs in the order the Factory Service Manual called for in 3 increments, 30 lbs, 45 lbs, and 60 lbs.

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I than detorqued the arps nuts in a similar fashion and checked my results...

Perfect!!!ish!! .002 on all 5, with maybe one or two at .00175. On the tight side, but I think that will work for me.

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I than cleaned off all of the plastic gauge and than pulled the crank out. I lubed up the crank, the bearings, spun the crank and lubbed some more. I put the main caps back on with more lubs and made sure they were all level.

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I than tightened everything in the same three torqueing steps: 30 lbs, 45lbs, and 60 lbs. 60 lbs is what the ARP main called for in their instructions, I just followed the Factory Service manual in the order in which to tighten.

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Once everything was together, I spun the crank for the first time with it all together, and like it was supposed to, it spun freely!

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And tonight, I hope to finish up prepping the block for a fresh coat of paint, and hopefully a solution to the BS bearing removal.

Thats all for now, please say something if it looks like or I said I did something wrong, much easier to fix it now than later

Cheers!

 

[BleedingSilver]

In the first pictures showing the plastigauge reading it looks as if the bearing lube was on the crank like it came out from the back side of the bearing surface? I could have just looked at it the wrong way. There is to be NO oil or lube applied to the backside of the bearing when installed in a motor. The back sides of the bearings and the block are to be completly dry and free from foriegn material as it will effect bearing clearence.

 

[Atuca]

Uh oh....

I put lube on the back off all the bearings. I thought I read I was supposed to. I guess this is why its good I post these things. Are you 100% sure? Let me do some research, and than if need be take it off.

Are you sure it needs to be removed? Wouldn't oil get back there anyways?

*edit* http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-rod-bearing-lube-question.html#post152100101

You are 100% correct, no grease back there. Guess I know what I'm doing tonight now...

 

[flawlessTSI]

oh and whal your at it. remove the lube from the mateing surface of the block and main cap because it will change the bearing clearance also.

look at pic to see what im talking about.

 

[Atuca]

Ok ok, I was told to put lube everywhere. Maybe I read into that too much. I really appreciate the feedback, otherwise I be just rolling with it as it sits, not knowing.

Thanks!

 

[snowborder714]

Good catch guys on the lube. I agree - none on the back.

Here's what I used to remove bearings that worked well.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151838055-post4.html

 

[iamtall77]

The easiest way I know to remove the front (exhaust side) BS bearings is to flip the balance shaft around and use it to knock out the inner bearing. In other words use the timing side of the BS to knock out the inside bearing.

The timing side bearing can be knocked out with anything else, including a flat head screwdriver, as long as you don't mess up the block surface too badly.

The new block off bearings can be installed the same way. The timing side bearing can be knocked in with any flat surface as long as you use even pressure all around and don't use anything that can leave debris like wood.

Obviously you don't need to remove the intake side bearing as there is not oil passage to block off. Hope that helps some. You can just check out the VFAQ or do a quick search for anyone who has done this. Pretty easy and doesn't require any special tools.

 

[Atuca]

Alright so last night I went and redid everthing, cleaning off the bearings with brake cleaner, and started over.

As for the bearing.. the screwdriver was doing nothing but denting up the bearing. So I went at it carefully with my dremel.

Another task under the dremel's belt of 1 million uses... As for the inner bearing, I think my 32mm fit that one perfectly. I didn't play with it much because it was 1am when I got to that point, and my fiance was begging me to come to bed.

So one "wasted" night, but at least it was done right this time. I promise you, I'll at least remeber all this the next time it needs a rebuild

 

[tlcoolj]

Have you had your block line honed?? If not you should not be using those ARP main studs.

 

[Atuca]

The block was line honed with the kiggly main girdle and ARP studs installed and torqued to spec.

 

[tlcoolj]

Nice, good luck with the build