Full alcohol fuel conversion, what hardware is needed?

[definitiveno]

I know you need computers that would reset staic at 9:1 but what about hardware, lines, pump etc. I understand you also would run much larger injectors than you would with alcohol, possibly 2 sets depending on how much power you made. I am just wondering because there trying to develope gas stations alll around now the offer ethanol, if there's a way to be able to fill up with straight ethenal I can only imagine the timing maps I could setup. Any thing is better than 91 octane. Please, any one experienced, lay it down for me.

 

[SpoOLxExO]

Methanol? Or Eythl-Alcohol?

I know with either you must use a dedicated tank, pump, lines, and fittings that are meth/alky approved.

I also know that after you are finished burning through a tank of straight meth, you must "Clean" the system thereafter with gasoline before you put it away.

If any Methanol gets into any gasoline fuel system, it will eat the seals and sometimes the lines if it sits there long enough. Very Caustic stuff.

This is why you will need seperate components if you still plan on running Gasoline as well.

Are you converting, or Adapting?

Power potential is rediculous with this type of fuel!

 

[slugsgomoo]

i think he's speaking of ethanol (like E85) and not methanol. It's more of a cost issue, than performance.

That being said, I have no idea.

 

[ZmanIV]

E85 is the stuff that is being used 85% ethanol. One guy I know of is using 1/2 tank E85 and the other 91 octane. Drawback is you have to burn more of it to get the same amount of power. Therefore you need larger injectors and some type of adjustable computer to compensate for the new fuel requirements.
Go to sddsm.org and search E85.

 

[definitiveno]

This is why you will need seperate components if you still plan on running Gasoline as well.

Why can't I run gasoline through a car setup for alcohol, a/f aside.

 

[SpoOLxExO]

I just figured out you were talking about E85.

I thought you were going for methanol conversion before. Sorry.

 

[definitiveno]

It's more of a cost issue, than performance.

No, it's definatly performance. Turns out to be cheaper by the gallon but you use alot more of it so it breaks even or is more costly in the long run. However, it is rated 105 octane and above depending on the batch.

 

[definitiveno]

I just figured out you were talking about E85.

I thought you were going for methanol conversion before. Sorry.

No problem man, I use the "I just figured out what every one was talking about" smilie ( ) atleast once a day

 

[gixrman]

There have been a couple of threads on this search under E85. As far as equipment you will need anodized aluminum or stainless steel with the proper o-rings. Its a lot of work for the gain.

 

[Talesin]

Classic requirements for running a pure denatured ethanol system (not E85) is 20-25% richer fuel ratio (classic carbuerated vehicles simply bore out their jet). Specifically, gasoline burns well at a 14:1 ratio, while alcohol burns more effectively at a 9:1. If you have a tuning tool, you should be able to arrange for this. You most likely will need to step up your injectors. Old gaskets will need replacing... ethanol is a much cleaner fuel than gasoline, and will strip the deposits currently keeping your fuel system from leaking after all these years, much like adding synthetic oil to an older vehicle.

Naturally-aspirated vehicles also tend to go with higher compression pistons. Also, if you live in a cold climate (aka: ever see snow) you will want to hook up a professional fuel line heating element to pre-warm the alcohol during cold starts on winter days.

Making E85 yourself is a stone b*tch. You need literal 200-proof ethanol, which no still will produce.. you have to run the (upward max) 194-proof through a molecular sieve. Otherwise, the water in the alcohol will seperate out when you add in the gasoline. Water settles, boom, water in your fuel line. Bad thing, if it wasn't obvious. You can, however, run the 194 ethanol.. without the gasoline, the water is perfectly happy to stay in the alky.


Safety notes. Alcohol of course burns with a clear flame, so make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you triple and quadruple-check for fuel leaks! If you aren't meticulous to the extremes, you could end up burning your car to cinders without even noticing.


The up sides:
-Renewable energy source for tree-huggers.
-Burns cooler (less knock, more boost, more potential power!)
-Burns slower, transferring more of its potential energy to the piston (gasoline only transfers 15-25%, the rest is wasted as heat)
-MUCH cheaper (make it yourself even, but remember to denature and label it or you could get a police visit for moonshining!)

A spare fuel tank and a selector T-fitting (and a secondary fuel pump) is recommended if you want to switch between alky and gasoline... especially possible if you have something like DSMLink where you can store one profile for alky and one for petrol, and easily switch between them. If you're running alky-only, make sure you carry a spare fuel can. It's not the easiest thing to find when you're cruising down the freeway.


For an extensive write-up of how to do it to an NA carb engine, check the link below.
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_drane.html

The same underlying theory applies.