fulcrum ball release fork play?

[pitbull419]

Ive been having problems with my clutch.
Well it wont dissengage after i did a clutch job
So ive been looking at stuff that could cause it.
And while looking at the release fork and fulcrum ball
i noticed a bit of play on the fork.
With the fork on the fulcrum ball i could pull the fork forward alittle bit.
It seemed like it was to much to me
Is there supposed to be play between the to.
thanks

 

[steel_3d]

There's usually a bit of play in there. If you're worried about potential wear, add a washer under the pivot ball. Make sure you grease the ball.

 

[GVR4592]

I would replace the ball and fork while you have it apart. Shimming the ball or using a longer slave rod are bad ideas, they are just covering up the worn out parts that will have to be replaced eventually.

 

[pitbull419]

Ya thats what i think im ganna do just replace them.
I also took my flywheel to the machine shop yesturday, and the guy measured it from the
pressure plate mounting surface to the friction surface and got .612. Then he told me its to far gone to resurface is that correct.
Thanks for your help

 

[RoasT BeeF]

What kind of clutch are you going back in with?

.608" to .610" is ideal for DSM performance clutches. Up to .613" will work. Do not try to use anything shallower than .608" Stock is .612"

 

[pitbull419]

Its an oem in my daily driver.
If stock is .612 how can you get to .608 chopp sum of the pressure plate mounting surface off?

 

[Auto RS T]

If the fulcrum ball/clutch fork had play, I would replace the unit. It is possible that the fork may be bent also in conjunction with the parts being worn down.

Other things that you have checked allready would be helpful also.

 

[GVR4592]

What kind of clutch are you going back in with?

.608" to .610" is ideal for DSM performance clutches. Up to .613" will work. Do not try to use anything shallower than .608" Stock is .612"

It's a good idea to give credit where credit is due, that is a direct quote from RRE's site.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

 

[GVR4592]

Its an oem in my daily driver.
If stock is .612 how can you get to .608 chopp sum of the pressure plate mounting surface off?

That is correct. Whatever comes off of the clutch disc surface needs to come off of the pressure plate mounting surface.

 

[Auto RS T]

For some reason I didn't understand this was the issue, Any reliable machine shop should know this, especially if you brought it to him with the pins in. Good call GVR4592

 

[GVR4592]

You're right it is a good idea to give credit so be a nice guy and add to my rep.

Thx

You shouldn't have to ask for rep points, you either earn them or you don't.

 

[pitbull419]

Might be a dumb question,
but if you cut some off the prssure plate mounting surface wouldnt this move the pressure plate farther away from the t.o.b?
What if its to far for the t.o.b to travel and dissengage the clutch all the way?

 

[steel_3d]

Normally you only take off a couple thousandths of an inch, which is nothing in the overall travel of the tob.

The slave also self-adjusts. It always adjusts to where it's putting almost no pressure on the tob. (Unless you take all the freeplay out of the master and get the piston to plug the relief hole, in which case your tob will always be preloaded and something will soon wear out.)

Unless you're pushing the slave far enough to pop the piston out, nothing you do to the length of the slave rod, shimming the pivot ball, or anything like that will help with disengagement. Just thought I'd clear up this common misconception while we're at it. Actual tob travel is controlled by the travel of the master piston. Pretty much the only way to get better disengagement is to minimize the freeplay at the master.