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Fuel Pump Install?

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Hybucci

Probationary Member
21
0
Sep 27, 2006
Holland, Michigan
Ok Ive been looking around for the better part of an hour now and cant find anything to help me a little bit with the install of a Walbro 255 pump. I was looking for a guide with pictures or something at least. I think that I could do it but I just want a little reassurance.
 
When you get to the part where you have to trim the sheetmetal on the car, you can forgo that if you take two flare wrenches and just completely remove the fuel line. Just be sure to put as little possible force as possible on the fuel pump assembly. I preferred this method to hacking my car.
 
When you get to the part where you have to trim the sheetmetal on the car, you can forgo that if you take two flare wrenches and just completely remove the fuel line. Just be sure to put as little possible force as possible on the fuel pump assembly. I preferred this method to hacking my car.

To add to the post above:
The vfaq doesn't say it, but you HAVE to go under the car and disconnect the hose from underneath BEFORE you disconnect the hose up top next to the vent line. So whether you hack your car or not, you need to get under it and disconnect it from there first. The reason is because the rubber hose will twist A LOT. So much so that you can't continue unscrewing it from the sending unit.

I didn't hack my car either because I didn't want to do it to my car. In order to make sure you don't break your sending unit, prop the 14mm flare with some bricks. Set it up so that there is a few degrees of pressure in the opposite direction. This way when you are trying to crack loose the 19mm, you don't have to worry about keeping the 14mm from moving because the bricks are doing the work for you (and better than you will ever be able to).

:thumb:

EDIT : When undoing the lower fittings, don't worry about keeping either of them rotationally stationary. Just do what you can to break them loose. Once free, go ahead and rotate the 14mm off of the 19mm because the 19mm will twist if you keep rotating it.
 
No_Skillz said:
When you get to the part where you have to trim the sheetmetal on the car, you can forgo that if you take two flare wrenches and just completely remove the fuel line. Just be sure to put as little possible force as possible on the fuel pump assembly. I preferred this method to hacking my car.





I found it much easier to have someone else help you out when uninstalling (and re-installing) this particular fuel line. The line is basically in an "L" shape. After so many years without a whole lot of flexing, the line wants to keep this form in place.

After the fuel line is disconnected from under the car, have someone under the car to keep the fuel line steady and to help the fuel line turn when you're un the backseat turning the 19mm wrench. It just makes it so much easier.





DSMvroom said:
The reason is because the rubber hose will twist A LOT. So much so that you can't continue unscrewing it from the sending unit.





Actually, you could keep unscrewing the screw from the flare fitting. But you'd end up severely damaging the fuel line. ;)





In order to make sure you don't break your sending unit, prop the 14mm flare with some bricks. Set it up so that there is a few degrees of pressure in the opposite direction. This way when you are trying to crack loose the 19mm, you don't have to worry about keeping the 14mm from moving because the bricks are doing the work for you (and better than you will ever be able to).





I had to use a lot of force just to break the 19mm fitting loose. After that, I used two 19mm wrenches on that one fitting; one to turn the fitting, the other to hold the fitting in place (because it likes to screw itself back on when you stop applying force - this is why having someone else under the car to hold the feed line steady and make sure it doesn't turn is beneficial).





EDIT : When undoing the lower fittings, don't worry about keeping either of them rotationally stationary. Just do what you can to break them loose. Once free, go ahead and rotate the 14mm off of the 19mm because the 19mm will twist if you keep rotating it.





You also shouldn't have your face directly under the fitting placement while under the car. Fuel will spill down. Not a ton, but enough to F-up your eyes. Just don't lay directly beneath it and you'll be fine. Have a couple extra dirty rags ready to clean up the spill. Also be conscious of splatter when the fuel hits the ground.
 
So many different tips to do this. VFAQ says if you can't get the top fitting loose then you have to go underneath and snip the metal. What if you do get it loose, can you just skip all the extra stuff and just pull it out?
 
So many different tips to do this. VFAQ says if you can't get the top fitting loose then you have to go underneath and snip the metal. What if you do get it loose, can you just skip all the extra stuff and just pull it out?

As I posted above, no matter what you do, you have to go underneath the car and disconnect that fitting. So, may as well do that first before anything else.

Once that is sorted out, hop back in the back seat and see if you can break the top fitting loose. Use my 'brick trick' so that you don't end up breaking your sending unit. If you can break it loose, then just continue and completely disconnect it.

If you can't break it loose or you would simply prefer not even trying, then you'll have to start cutting per vfaq's instructions.
 
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