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Fuel, Camshafts, and Cam Gears

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redeclipse7782

15+ Year Contributor
463
7
Oct 20, 2004
Worcester, Massachusetts
I just have a couple questions i was hoping you guys could help me with. I have a 1997 Eclipse 420a GS with super 16g turbo, front mount intercooler, hks blow off valve, turbo xs boost controller, missing link, and apexi safc2. I am installing, crower stage 2, aem cam gears, sfmu, 440cc injectors, walbro 255 lph. I was wondering what i should set my aem cam gears to i heard exhaust 0 intake 4 degrees is this correct?? Also if they are the old cam gears does anyone know how many teeth it is so they are correct on our cars. Also what should my fuel pressure be around at idle??
Thanks In Advance,
-Brian
 
You have all those mods and don't know that to tune cam gears you have to get upto the dyno and test some settings out see which yields best results?
 
I have also heard that retarding the exhaust cam a couple degrees will help improve top end power. But he is right, the only way to maximize your results is to get your car on a dyno and play will all of your settings until you find what works best. :talon:
 
I'm going to have it dyno'd but the dyno shop isnt installing the parts so i need to be able to drive it there without blowing it up. Look if you dont have anything to say except for sarcasm then dont say anything because i dont want to hear how u think u are so smart and rag on people for asking questions and trying to make them look dumb. UHHH you have all that stuff and dont know u need to dyno it>?? Did I ask a dyno question?? Did i say do i need to dyno?? I wanted to be able to get a good foundation for them to work on and for me to drive the car until i bring it to them. Plus i want to learn on my own so thanks for your reply but no thanks. Atleast 1bad92awd made an attempt to help and i appreciate that.
 
redeclipse7782 said:
I just have a couple questions i was hoping you guys could help me with. I have a 1997 Eclipse 420a GS with super 16g turbo, front mount intercooler, hks blow off valve, turbo xs boost controller, missing link, and apexi safc2. I am installing, crower stage 2, aem cam gears, sfmu, 440cc injectors, walbro 255 lph. I was wondering what i should set my aem cam gears to i heard exhaust 0 intake 4 degrees is this correct?? Also if they are the old cam gears does anyone know how many teeth it is so they are correct on our cars. Also what should my fuel pressure be around at idle??
Thanks In Advance,
-Brian

o intake and 4 exhaust is where a lot of people go to, however.. i think you should start at 1 degree and slowly work your way up.

no clue how many teeth.

with 440cc injectors, your fp at idle should be around 20psi. you can use the afc to tune the fuel so you can turn the fp up some, but not much. honestly, the afc is not needed. i never used one.
 
DO NOT MESS WITH TIMING WITHOUT A DYNO.... Don't follow someone elses settings. Run 0 - 0 until you dyon tune. Trust me, its not worth screwing up your new motor.
 
SnoopySLR said:
DO NOT MESS WITH TIMING WITHOUT A DYNO.... Don't follow someone elses settings. Run 0 - 0 until you dyon tune. Trust me, its not worth screwing up your new motor.


actually.. i don't dyno tune anymore. i road tune only. there is a big difference between the two. ive seen many people blow their motor after having a good tune off a dyno..
 
siueclipse said:
actually.. i don't dyno tune anymore. i road tune only. there is a big difference between the two. ive seen many people blow their motor after having a good tune off a dyno..


That makes no sense. Those people must have been morons or just tuning too recklessly to blow thier cars up on a dyno tune. If dyno's were too risky to use then all of the race teams out there wouldn't spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on dyno time every season.

A solid dyno tune is still one of the best ways to tune a car. Like they said don't screw with your cam gear timing if you don't know what your doing. Leave it at 0-0 and work from there.
 
2fast420a said:
That makes no sense. Those people must have been morons or just tuning too recklessly to blow thier cars up on a dyno tune. If dyno's were too risky to use then all of the race teams out there wouldn't spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on dyno time every season.

A solid dyno tune is still one of the best ways to tune a car. Like they said don't screw with your cam gear timing if you don't know what your doing. Leave it at 0-0 and work from there.
Actually I would have thought that too if it were not for what happened about 6 months ago. My friend put a supercharger/aftercooler on his 4.6l Mustang. He had it dyno tuned and bought all the tuning devices and such, set him back about 800 dollars. His second pass a week after dyno tuning he blew his motor all over the ground. I'm still not sure exactly what happened but, the dyno tuning was done at a conservative level by a nationaly known shop. I would still say that dyno tuning is 99% the best way to go when tuning a car though, sometimes things go wrong. As for this post, it is pretty simple to guess that you should zero the cam gears and then go to the dyno. You have no reason to even try changing them, and no reason why they wouldn't be fine at 0-0 until you dyno. Good luck with it and post what you end up with afterwards.
 
There are too many factors that can go into why a engine will blow. They dyno would be the least likely suspect. There are guys who go to dyno's and then drop thier trannys on the way home. Not being smart alecky here but you see what I mean.
 
2fast420a said:
I see what your saying but there are too many factors that can go into why a engine will blow. They dyno would be the least likely suspect. There are guys who go to dyno's and then drop thier trannys on the way home. Not being smart alecky here but you see what I mean.
Ohh I have no doubt the dyno was not the problem, a dyno should only be at fault if they lean it out and blow it up, or something around those lines. But it was something mechanical, I suspect that the motor 4.6l could not hold the 398 it put down at the wheels, but that is just my opinion. I do not doubt though that the dyno weakend the motor, it took at look of the motor doing several dyno pulls, since it destroyed itself on only the second pass since the sc install. Either way I still trust a good dyno over my own street tuning, especially with wideband and other tuning tools.
 
miamieclipse said:
You have all those mods and don't know that to tune cam gears you have to get upto the dyno and test some settings out see which yields best results?
Dont make me bust out a can of whoop ass on you! :p Be nice to Brian, he's a good kid. Now say your sorry... or else! :cool:

Sorry I couldnt help with the cam thing. Mine were installed and tuned when the motor was rebuilt and tested... so I dont have much more than a clue. Have you done a search or posted over at 2gnt? You might get more straight ass answers there... unless you want me to make a post for you... :D :p

I gotta see this car when your through... I'll race ya for slips :p
 
siueclipse said:
All I ment by the dyno tuning post was that many people lean out their cars too much, then get on the road and its even leaner because of outside factors you dont find on a dyno.
Exactly right, if a dyno tunes your car for maximum power inside a garage with a fan and the temp is about 79 degrees that is all good, but when you race into the night even in the summer temps can drop to 50-60 range and not many people know to put a little fuel back in because of the temp. That possibly could have been my friends problem as his runs were both at night before the car blew and the day he dyno tuned was very warm. I do all my tuning at the track, and the only reason I have ever thought about going to a dyno is for hp/tq numbers.
 
siueclipse said:
All I ment by the dyno tuning post was that many people lean out their cars too much, then get on the road and its even leaner because of outside factors you dont find on a dyno.


Many people make the mistake of doing that ragged edge tune on the dyno when there are clear meathods for safe dyno tuning that allow compensation for outside conditions. Many people think that after one dyno tune they are done forever and that is not the case.
 
#### it just leave everything STOCK....Tuning sucks any ways :p...No I kinda dyno and road tune. I had my car Dyno tuned and then kinda retuned it for the road. It seems to me a car the runs great on a dyno, well its harder on the motor on the road..IMO that just my thoughts
 
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