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Fresh motor no start

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mchustle

15+ Year Contributor
800
2
Aug 8, 2009
johnson city, Tennessee
Ok well I was hoping to say she is running again, but not the case. Finally went for the start up and just cranks and cranks every now and then it will catch for a second like it is going to start but then just goes back to cranking. I went into link and made sure my map and iat were specified and sd was maf type. I locked the coolant temp incase the cts was bad no help, and it was ready 68*. Isc is showing 120 whether it is plugged in or not so that may be bad but I didn't think it could cause a no start. Dead time is set for my 1200cc's. I'm getting fuel for sure and I'm pretty sure I'm getting spark since it acts like it going to start every now and then. I tried flipping the cad just incase. It is a 6bolt but everything is still setup for it because my last motor was a 6bolt.

I'm at a loss maybe it is too low on gas LOL, at this point I have no idea. Any help will be appreciated. Sorry if this is the wrong section I wasn't sure where to post it.
 
Things to check:

1. Spark plug wires- make sure theyre plugged in correctly on the coil.
2. Coil pack and igniter are plugged in
3. Fuel Injector resistor pack are plugged in
4. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, make sure youve got it adjusted enough to make pressure- just have someone look at the pressure gauge when you crank the motor and that its making at least 35- 40+ psi, you can adjust it to the proper 43 psi after you get the motor running.

5. Regarding the CAS, put the motor to TDC with the cam gears and crank pulley mark all lined up, pull the CAS off, and make sure that the notch on the part that is spun by the camshaft is lined up with the mark on the base where the oring goes on the CAS. This is the proper way to install the CAS, and if its 180 degrees out of phase, the car may run, but the injectors will be firing out of time so you will run lean, I have confirmed this with a wideband.
 
Things to check:

1. Spark plug wires- make sure theyre plugged in correctly on the coil.
2. Coil pack and igniter are plugged in
3. Fuel Injector resistor pack are plugged in
4. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, make sure youve got it adjusted enough to make pressure- just have someone look at the pressure gauge when you crank the motor and that its making at least 35- 40+ psi, you can adjust it to the proper 43 psi after you get the motor running.

5. Regarding the CAS, put the motor to TDC with the cam gears and crank pulley mark all lined up, pull the CAS off, and make sure that the notch on the part that is spun by the camshaft is lined up with the mark on the base where the oring goes on the CAS. This is the proper way to install the CAS, and if its 180 degrees out of phase, the car may run, but the injectors will be firing out of time so you will run lean, I have confirmed this with a wideband.

1-I'm running coil on plugs so that's right.
2- doubled checked plugs and they are both plugged in tight.
3-resistor pack was never unplugged.
4-I activated my fuel pump via link and my afpr is set right.
5-I pulled the Cas and turned it 180* twice to be sure. No change either way.
 
Run a quick compression test/leak down, if the HLAs are pumped up and have the valves cracked off the seat that may cause a no start.
 
Run a quick compression test/leak down, if the HLAs are pumped up and have the valves cracked off the seat that may cause a no start.

Ok I planned on doing a compression test tomorrow afternoon. If there is valve damage I will be forced to cry like a school girl getting stood up for prom.
 
Regarding the CAS, it definitely isnt the cause of your no start situation, I was just telling ya how to be sure it is installed correctly so as to avoid the issues causes by a CAS that is out of phase. What COP kit do you have? If it uses an aftermarket ignition module, is everything wired properly? Just trying to cover everything.
 
Self made cop no aftermarket ignition system, and it worked on the last motor. I'm still not ruining it out though I'm gonna throw a coil pack on tomorrow to make sure
 
Any new info? get it sorted out yet?
 
Any new info? get it sorted out yet?

Yes actually. I went to do a compression test and the plugs were covered in Unburnt fuel and fouled out. I cleaned the plugs up and tried to start it and it tried hard to start. So I ended up going and grabbing a new set of cheap plugs and threw them in, fired right up and sounded great. Then the puddle of oil under my car lead me to finding the factory oil pressure sensor had brakem off inside and was spraying out oil. I'm gonna order a new ofh tonight and a few other little things.

Side note compression test showed ~165 in each cylinder. What should the compression show on 8.5-1 weisco pistons with 272s? I'm assuming the compression will change once the rings start breaking in also??

Forgot to mention this was also with the throttle closed and obviously the motor had never been started just cranks so it was cold.
 
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