First time starting a fresh motor check list

[1995gsx20g]

i would like to make a check list of things to check before starting a motor up on a fresh build. and then things to check once the motor is running since we all know the first hour or so is a very crucial time period for proper engine break-in. it would also be a good thing to print out so you can physically check things off one at a time and run down the list to prevent mistakes from occurring during a time where 2k can easily go down the drain.
-lets make two charts one for pre start-up check list and the other for post start-up
-lets keep the post start-up list in order by priority of most important at the top of the list

i know there will be opinions on which is more important to check first and how to break in a motor properly ex. beat the snot out of it within the first hour with little to no boost or baby it, but the main objective is to make a check list.

ill start just keep adding on to the lists

Pre Start-Up
-Check for Boost leaks
-Set Base Fuel Pressure
-Check All Fluid levels
-Check Torque of Head Studs
-Good GAS

Post Start-UP
-Oil Pressure
-Coolant Temp
-RPM if breaking in new cam

 

[Benshooter]

In my experience (V8s, aircooled VW, 2-stroke motorcycle engines) I was taught and practice the "break them in fast and they'll be fast" method.

Heat is a huge concern when doing this since your break in clearances will probably be very tight and therefor be creating more friction heat.

Normally what I do is idle it up to operating temp or a little cooler and make sure it's running as rich as possible without it stalling or falling on it's face. I try to do this on a cool day or early morning. Heat is the enemy when you're choosing this break in method, remember this. I also use watter wetter too when I do this for the same reasons. I don't use synthetics for the break in, I was taught they were too slick to let the ring seat properly. Once it's warmed up I drive around with some enthusiasm for 20 or 30 minutes or so to make sure the oil pressure, temperature, and whatever else is in check.

After the first 20-30 minutes of actual driving I'll start putting a good load on the engine considering everything is going well. Taking it through the gears at 1/2 and 3/4 throttle, but not hitting the rev limiter just yet. Usually that's when things usually start to get hot and I'll let it cool down completely. After that, I'll run the engine like I was going to die in an hour. WOT, rev limiter, load, etc. It will get hot and when it does, cool it down and then go at it again. Gradually it heats up less and less until fully broken in.

I usually run an engine harder in it's first 1000 miles than it will ever see on such a constant basis, minus motorcycles/quads since I always ride those hard. I've had good luck with this method and I'm anxious to see how it will apply to a 4g63 once I do my build.

If at anytime you notice a spike in temperature or it climbs too high, shut it down and let it cool completely.

 

[1995gsx20g]

even with the motor being so rich why do you suspect it overheats? friction from the rings seating?

 

[Benshooter]

Not all engines run hot off the bat, but most engines I've rebuilt with upgraded internals try to run a little hot at first. I was always told it was the tighter initial clearances.

 

[92tsiawdguy]

you dont want them to run rich on start up. the extra fuel will wash down the cylinder walls and destroy the pistons walls and ruin the oil, The gas will go past the rings into the oil pan. ask anyone who builds fast engines. lots of gas will ruin the engine.

ask stm's engine builder, magnus, ams...... ask any of them

 

[95burgundyesi]

Change oil often, and oil filter. I like putting a filter on the ss turbo line too for extra insurance.

 

[1995gsx20g]

you dont want them to run rich on start up. the extra fuel will wash down the cylinder walls and destroy the pistons walls and ruin the oil, The gas will go past the rings into the oil pan. ask anyone who builds fast engines. lots of gas will ruin the engine.

ask stm's engine builder, magnus, ams...... ask any of them

this is what i always thought about fuel

 

[keltalon]

As far as pistons and after the ton ton of internet reading I have done CP Pistons seems to be holding their own as far as reputation is concerned. I remember when you could get a set of cp pistons for relative cheap but no more The reason is they have gotten a reputation of being able to hold up especially in the rally all night driving torture, this is when cp realized just how good their piston was and raised the price But anyway , from what i have read, they are one of the best pistons on the market. Oh by the way the owner of cp pistons at one time worked for JE really don't know what position but anyway he decided to capitalize on their weakness and started a company (cp) that can offer a better piston at a better price and so far he has my vote

 

[EclipticalGS]

*put fluids in, BLT
*crank the car over with no spark/fuel oil circulated
*Let the car idle
*Adjust base timing, "skip this step"
*shut the car down, check under ground, no leaking fluids??
*start back up, let it reach full operating temp
*pull out of your drive way and by the end of the corner take it to 3000rpms @ 9-10 psi.
*Drive around varying load on/off WOT in 2nd/3rd gear which seats the ring
*take it up to about 5000 rpms in 2nd gear, and let it engine brake all the way to a stop. (clears ring shavings)
*make sure your PCV doesnt blow your dipstick out
*cheange oil after 50 miles, then another 500, then another 3000, so on.
*Pull back into garage, let the car cool down, top off rad. and other fluids, tighten anything loose, usually after a first drive my clamps needed retightening.

Enjoy.

Yeah when i was precranking the car before startup, i completely forgot to take out my fuel relay, so I was drowning my cylinders in gas for like 3 mins straight. Then I started it up and after 62 miles my compression is 185 185 185 185

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

I 100% agree with the aggressive break in method. I wouldn't necessarily run it rich, but I'd get a safe AFR, or some base tune and low boost at first. MAKE SURE you prime your oil system before your first startup! This should have been done before you put the timing components on, but there are ways to do it with the engine all together as well. Start it up, check for leaks, overheating, oil pressure, etc. Once it's good, take it out and drive it HARD! Make sure you accelerate hard and decelerate as well. Don't hit it hard and let off the gas and put it in neutral. Both accel and decel will help seal the rings.

 

[Benshooter]

you dont want them to run rich on start up. the extra fuel will wash down the cylinder walls and destroy the pistons walls and ruin the oil, The gas will go past the rings into the oil pan. ask anyone who builds fast engines. lots of gas will ruin the engine.

ask stm's engine builder, magnus, ams...... ask any of them

First off like I said this is all in my experience and I have yet to see what does or doesn't transcend into 4G motors. Second I grew up in Las Vegas, where things that should never overheat find a way to overheat. If I were to doing a break in in Utah winter I wouldn't run very rich or use water wetter. How do you support the claim that running a motor rich on a break in will ruin it? It would happen if you didn't change the oil in the first few hundred miles like you should. Even then I've never seen huge amounts of fuel mixed in my engine oil using this method and to me I'd rather take the chance than let the cylinder walls become glazed with oil. Maybe you think I'm running so rich that enough raw fuel is actually dumping down past the rings, overwhelming the lubrication properties of the oil, and eating the cylinder walls... If thats the other thought, then no, I'm not. I've never seen any engine do that, even with excessive fuel.

I'm no proffesional, I don't have any certifications or degrees in this stuff. I'm just a shadetree mechanic, but I can say most of the engines i've built have lasted and some have even helped win races.

 

[1995gsx20g]

First off like I said this is all in my experience and I have yet to see what does or doesn't transcend into 4G motors. Second I grew up in Las Vegas, where things that should never overheat find a way to overheat. If I were to doing a break in in Utah winter I wouldn't run very rich or use water wetter. How do you support the claim that running a motor rich on a break in will ruin it? It would happen if you didn't change the oil in the first few hundred miles like you should. Even then I've never seen huge amounts of fuel mixed in my engine oil using this method and to me I'd rather take the chance than let the cylinder walls become glazed with oil. Maybe you think I'm running so rich that enough raw fuel is actually dumping down past the rings, overwhelming the lubrication properties of the oil, and eating the cylinder walls... If thats the other thought, then no, I'm not. I've never seen any engine do that, even with excessive fuel.

I'm no proffesional, I don't have any certifications or degrees in this stuff. I'm just a shadetree mechanic, but I can say most of the engines i've built have lasted and some have even helped win races.

i didn't know you were out in vegas, so yea that's a big difference from me. but what would a typical afr be?
this is part of the reason i made this thread. i would like to entertain all ideas and maby change some of my own methods. some peoples opinions are a bit stronger than others..

 

[Benshooter]

I've only ever had the pleasure of a wideband once, and it was in a ranger that was being turned into a pre-runner. The AFRs would be low 13s at cruise and low 10s at WOT. My experience with fuel injected engines is very limited. Most of my builds are from a time period where "engine management" was your jetting and a few mixture screws on the carb(s). On older engines it's about reading plugs, temperature guns, smells, sounds, stuff like that.

 

[1995gsx20g]

yea.. a lot less hard data and more of a "feel" for it.