Forge BOV issue

[SoNew]

So I recently got a 1g flanged recirc Forge bov, I love the sound and the operation of the bov but I'm having a few issues and cant seem to pinpoint what it is. I used to run a 1g bov and liked it but it just looked ugly under my hood and I kinda wanted to experiment with something new. My first issue is that on steady acceleration from a dead stop I do NOT get into boost my gauge will read 0 or less and as I get up and almost shift into 2nd the bov releases prior to shifting. So at about -3 to -5 Hg it blows off without me pushing the clutch in. So its blowing off early. I have tried a few different springs with no solution. My second issue is when I'm using cruise control on the high way; when ever it tries to accelerate on its own itll hit hard to about 5-8 psi then blow off, then accel hard again, then blow off, and it does this repeatedly. Its extremely annoying and KILLS my MPG. Any idea if this is an issue, or if this is just how the valve is operates?

 

[SoNew]

Nope, vacuum source is the same as the original, no T's in the line. Obviously its on the charge pipe in the original location of my hard pipes. There really isn't a way i could hook it up incorrectly haha

The VACUUM source is after the throttle body and is the factory line.

The BOV is in the stock location on the CHARGE PIPE.

 

[Robzone0911]

The BOV nipple is supposed to be connected after the throttle body. Not on the charge pipe. I actually just learned this .

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/452415-hks-ssqv-not-working.html#post153147944

 

[SoNew]

Im talking about the bov itself. Im not new to these cars, It is hooked up correctly. As stated before, Its vacuum source is the same as original, the location is the same as the original. The BOV is hooked up correctly.

So I just took it apart, lubed the O rings, checked for tears in them and so forth. Everything looks to be fine... STUMPED

 

[JusMX141]

Make sure you have the correct spring installed in the valve. They're color-coded by the amount of vacuum your car draws at idle.

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The yellow spring will be correct for about 90% of the population. Do NOT think you're doing yourself a favor by running a lighter or heavier spring- choose only the spring that corresponds with the amount of vacuum your car draws at idle or you'll screw up the entire function of the valve. I know Forge tells you to choose the spring based on your boost pressure, but that's B.S.- the design of the valve means it should hold boost pressure at a 1:1 ratio (or close to it)....the spring is just there to regulate how quickly the valve opens, and for how long. TiAL explains it a little better.

http://www.tialmedia.com/documents/BOVspc.png


Other than that, it's as simple as running a dedicated vacuum line from your intake manifold to the valve, and it should operate as intended. If it continues to act goofy, you may have a hole in the diaphragm.

 

[SoNew]

Thanks man! I'm in class right now so as soon as I go home ill check it out! Ill let you know what happens.

 

[SoNew]

Yellow spring fixed it! Thanks!

 

[JusMX141]

No problem. I knew it would be something simple like spring a spring adjustment....it's just that getting some guys to understand the importance of having the correct spring installed can be difficult.