Fixed Boost leak, Not fuel cut

[Junkyardspecial]

So I had my car checked recently again for boost leaks and I had a massive one on a hard pipe before IC, I tried repairing as well as I could but only slowed the flow of the leak, since It improved boost I readjusted my boost down to stop fuel cut, but it still hits fuel cut, should I keep adding fuel to my ECU? Is there a way to fix this?

Title is meant to be now *** fuel cutting

 

[tcbikerguy6]

How much boost are you running? How did you try to fix the boost leak?

 

[Junkyardspecial]

Im at 18psi and had no issues, We unclamped the pipe and re fit it. It didnt make it disappear but cut the leak in half. Ill need a new pipe for the complete fix.

ALSO this is much more noticable in cooler temps.

 

[steve]

I readjusted my boost down to stop fuel cut, but it still hits fuel cut, should I keep adding fuel to my ECU? Is there a way to fix this?

Fuel cut has nothing to do with fuel except that it cuts fuel when you trigger the condition. It's all about overrunning the airflow limit programmed into the ECU.

So the first step is getting rid of all boost leaks, since they cause the airflow to be higher due to what's leaking out. This also helps keep the car from running richer than stock which slows you down, the ECU is going to add fuel for air that never reached the cylinders.

If you can't eliminate the check in the ECU via new software (DSMLink, reprogrammed chip, etc) then your limited to fooling the ECU with bigger injectors and some way to reduce the airflow seen by the ECU (SAFC, 2G MAF, MAFT, etc).

Adding fuel with an SAFC actually is adding air which causes fuel cut to be hit earlier than it would just off measured airflow from the MAF.

 

[Junkyardspecial]

Fuel cut has nothing to do with fuel except that it cuts fuel when you trigger the condition. It's all about overrunning the airflow limit programmed into the ECU.

So the first step is getting rid of all boost leaks, since they cause the airflow to be higher due to what's leaking out. This also helps keep the car from running richer than stock which slows you down, the ECU is going to add fuel for air that never reached the cylinders.

If you can't eliminate the check in the ECU via new software (DSMLink, reprogrammed chip, etc) then your limited to fooling the ECU with bigger injectors and some way to reduce the airflow seen by the ECU (SAFC, 2G MAF, MAFT, etc).

Adding fuel with an SAFC actually is adding air which causes fuel cut to be hit earlier than it would just off measured airflow from the MAF.

You sir are a genius, I have 550 injectors with the safc ( for now) I have been adding "fuel" on the safc negative percents and its been helping I just want to know if I should dial backthose adjustments? before this I would have a flat sensation on the high rpms with light sputtering, now ill hit fuel cut hard and then possibly accel past fuel cut with out issue. It happens randomly now.

 

[bryanwheat]

Fix the boost leak and it will go away. Do you have a wideband on the car? Are you just making random adjustments with the safc hoping this will help?

 

[steve]

You sir are a genius, I have 550 injectors with the safc ( for now) I have been adding "fuel" on the safc negative percents and its been helping I just want to know if I should dial backthose adjustments?

The SAFC modifies the airflow. Negative corrections remove air from what the ECU sees so that the ECU requests less fuel.

If all you had was the larger injectors all the settings would be negative about the difference between the stock and new injectors (~18% ignoring changes in deadtime between injectors). If your negative settings are > 18% then you have been removing fuel and may have created a lean condition. The factory tune is pretty rich at WOT so leaning that out on the high throttle table is common but without knowing your settings if hard to say if you anywhere close.

Get rid of all leaks first. You can't tune the car correctly with boost leaks.

 

[Junkyardspecial]

Ill be re piping today and seeing where I stand, the a/f for me is around .81v, Thank you for the help.

 

[steve]

The a/f for me is around .81v, Thank you for the help.

Narrowband O2 readings don't really tell us much. They vary by car and age of the sensor. The only thing they are good for is finding 14.7:1 for emissions.

 

[Junkyardspecial]

Narrowband O2 readings don't really tell us much. They vary by car and age of the sensor. The only thing they are good for is finding 14.7:1 for emissions.

My wideband sensor has gone and decided to not work lately so Im relying on a flashy light show. I know I was pig rich up top before and leaner toward middle RPM range.