fittings in valve cover route to exhaust

[420a-t]

I've been having problems with my pcv system and I'm getting a lot of blowby coming out of my dipstick. I was going to weld-on -10an fittings and have them go to a catchcan, but I have another idea afer talking with another member on here.

What if I had the fittings form my valve cover plumed back into my exhaust with a one-way check valve in-line to remove all the excess pressure? It would be below my WBO2 so nothing is worng there. Would it suck out oil too though? I can get the weld-in fittings for pretty cheap, and this sounds like it should work pretty well. What do you guys think?

Josh

 

[turboglenn]

I've been having problems with my pcv system and I'm getting a lot of blowby coming out of my dipstick. I was going to weld-on -10an fittings and have them go to a catchcan, but I have another idea afer talking with another member on here.

What if I had the fittings form my valve cover plumed back into my exhaust with a one-way check valve in-line to remove all the excess pressure? It would be below my WBO2 so nothing is worng there. Would it suck out oil too though? I can get the weld-in fittings for pretty cheap, and this sounds like it should work pretty well. What do you guys think?

Josh

It sounds good in theory but i know from a couple customer cars that it the rest of teh way back from the area where the bung would go in the exhast or your one way valves will never open and it will only lok cool. This is a trick best used on open header cars or track cars with nothing but a DP.

Just get a catch can and use a line from the turbo intake tube to the can to reate a good suction under boost especially. This will work way better and almost 100% of the time the motor is running.

 

[420a-t]

Why wouldn't the check valve open? I don't doubt you, just wondering what made it not open.

 

[turboglenn]

Why wouldn't the check valve open? I don't doubt you, just wondering what made it not open.

Back pressure built up from the muffler and the bends before it to g around the axle would hinder the free flow that's needed to cause the scavenging effect through the tubes.

The "exhaust MAP' sensor my haltech runs shows me 3-5psi of backpressure at 30psi and6500-7k RPM's...that's why it wouldn't open, and that's why i said it would work if the DP was unhooked and the tube was mounted about a foot or more in from the very outlet TIP of the DP since it needs room to get the scavenging effect (this is proven airflow laws, - Bernoulli's principles) you have to have velocity for scavenging

 

[420a-t]

Understandable. If I decided to run a downpipe dumped behind the front tire or downpipe through the bumper, this would work? I'm working on de-clttering my enigne bay and I thought this would be a good idea to do at the same time. Thanks

 

[turboglenn]

Understandable. If I decided to run a downpipe dumped behind the front tire or downpipe through the bumper, this would work? I'm working on de-clttering my enigne bay and I thought this would be a good idea to do at the same time. Thanks

Yes, then it would be very beneficial. When you put the fitting into the dp drill the hole snug and set the fitting almost flush with the inside diameter of teh pipe. The less sticking in the better, but just a little on the side not in the flow path helps speed up the air around the fitting and helps a tad... read that in a hot rod mag techs-n-tips section

 

[JWoodley]

So if you used this technique with an exhaust cutout, it might have a better chance of working?