First dyno on my RS49T, need advice/help.

[PSIcho]

Finally had my first dyno. Numbers don't look too appealing but again this is with very little attempt on tuning. I'm running on 680's, SAFC on -31 across the board on the first run and -35 on the second at 19.5lbs boost. Looking at the AFR its seems to be running extremely rich so maybe that's whats killing me. Other info... walbro 255's with 43lbs fuel, DNP tubular, tubular O2, Junior FMIC and 2.5 turboback.

What do you guys think my next step should be? Should I lean it out to -38 from 4k-7K? And increase it to about -21 from 1-3K? Or turn down my fuel pressure a little? Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.

 

[RavenX]

Theres a few things you forgot to mention so i'll ask them:

1- Did you do a boost leak test before the dyno to make sure you have no leaks whatsoever?

2- Do you have some sort of logger(Pocketlogger,MMCD) to record timing, rpm, etc etc?

3- What psi was this run done on?

4- What octane was this? Pump? Race Gas?

Lets just say you were on pump gas. For that you want the air fuels to be around 10.5-11.0:1 every car is different so find what your car likes best. You do need some sort of logger so you can watch out for knock through the timing. Leave the fuel pressure stock you only touch it when you are running close to 100% IDC's. Other than that theres really not much to say until you answer back.

 

[PSIcho]

Thanks Raven. To answer your questions...

1. Just fixed a boost leak on my TB and Comp. housing (RS49T thing) prior to dyno so it should be good.

2. I've done some logging but only went as far as -35 before which I thought was lean even though the O2 was showing .96-.98v so I was off there. I haven't done any logs yet after the dyno nor during the dyno run so we'll see how timing is now that I have a better idea how I'm doing AFR wise.

3. Both was done at around 19.5lbs boost.

4. Just pump gas, don't really want to do Race gas since its purely a street car.

Two things I'm really concern with now is the fact that the graph is really jagged unlike some of the ones that attended the dyno day (Dyno Extreme), which most had a flat progressive result with AFRs that were flat as well. It seems that I'm getting knock all over but I guess thats due to rich knock more than anything. The other is the AFR on the 2k -3.5k looks really lean. Is that something I need to richen out or be concerned with?

 

[GeosTalon]

It's too bad you can't adjust your timing. I'd advance the timing a bit. I've always seen more power from a couple of degrees of timing than adding boost.

Looking at your two runs, you are going in the right direction with leaning it out. Your second run your horsepower stayed the same, but you picked up 15 on torque. I'd bump it down to -38 on the high end, definitely. You've got some wiggle room up there as you are still running really rich.

I agree with Raven; you absolutely need to get something to monitor the engine vitals. I'm curious if the car is hearing knock and pulling timing out. If needed, get some 550's instead of the 680's.

 

[PSIcho]

It's too bad you can't adjust your timing. I'd advance the timing a bit. I've always seen more power from a couple of degrees of timing than adding boost.

Are you talking about base timing? I got a 1G CAS which is set to 5degrees base timing. Or do you mean adjusting it via DSM link? Thx.

 

[GeosTalon]

Adjustment via DSM link, although you could give yourself another few degrees base timing but it could make it more lean down low. If you have access to a wideband, I'd recommend trying it.

 

[kelvinb]

the first pull was super rich (blue right) the 2nd pull looks like your getting there. what you need to do is a get a print out of the afr numbers between 4k and the end of the pull. we can then help you out alittle more.

 

[PSIcho]

the first pull was super rich (blue right) the 2nd pull looks like your getting there. what you need to do is a get a print out of the afr numbers between 4k and the end of the pull. we can then help you out alittle more.

Unfortunately, the AFR numbers aren't available. I just have to go with the graph. I may have to do another dyno session to get my tuning a bit better. What do you guys think I should be getting HP wise with my setup?

 

[CanadianTSi]

2nd pull doesn't look that bad AFR wise, you don't wanna go to lean on pump gas.

I think you should turn up the boost, at 20psi that turbo is just getting started. 22-24psi will feel alot better

 

[GeosTalon]

Well, front wheel drive, manual, with a RS49T and supporting mods? 300 or more. Your setup seems pretty well done. You've got plenty of injector.

 

[RavenX]

HP wise you should be in the 300-330whp because thats where i was when i had my 50trim except i did it at 20psi. Bump up the psi to 20-21 and see what that does. So wait do you have DSMLINK? Leave the base timing at 5.

 

[GeosTalon]

HP wise you should be in the 300-330whp because thats where i was when i had my 50trim except i did it at 20psi. Bump up the psi to 20-21 and see what that does. So wait do you have DSMLINK? Leave the base timing at 5.

I don't think he'd be using an SAFC if he had DSMLink. I just mentioned it because of my experiences.

 

[PSIcho]

Thanks all. I did have my profec bII set at 21 and its been always rock solid at 21lbs except during the dyno run, go figure. Now, I'm wonderig whether I should go DSMlink or some Cams, in addition to more tuning.

 

[GeosTalon]

I think many people would tell you to go with DSMLink before the cams. The cams will put you further into a tuning nightmare. Give yourself a tool that'll help you get more power right now.

 

[SCdsmer]

The reason the dyno graph is jagged is because they were having trouble getting a clean tach signal from your car. I was the guy that was talking to you right before you dynoed . I would definately suggest getting dsmlink. Being able to control timing will help out your tuning quite a bit.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Thanks all. I did have my profec bII set at 21 and its been always rock solid at 21lbs except during the dyno run, go figure. Now, I'm wonderig whether I should go DSMlink or some Cams, in addition to more tuning.

Less load on the Dyno...

 

[RavenX]

Get dsmlink first and then go for the cams and whatever else you want. You won't regret it being able to control everything.

 

[PSIcho]

Thanks again guys. One other thing, just wondering if I need to be concerned with the <36k settings. Wouldn't I need to richen that up?

 

[GeosTalon]

Yes, you should richen it up for now. Better safe than sorry. Perhaps +5 would be good.

 

[240kid]

what did you do to your comp housing?? I have an RS49T and was wondering if they had some issue I was unaware of

 

[dsm-onster]

2nd pull doesn't look that bad AFR wise, you don't wanna go to lean on pump gas.

I think you should turn up the boost, at 20psi that turbo is just getting started. 22-24psi will feel alot better

Yup. You need more boost. It's a good thing you just so happen to have a 50 trim. Which does great on up to what 30 psi or something. Take a stab at a little more boost and see where it takes you.

 

[BaddAssGst]

I would actually recommend burning a chip for an e-prom ECU if you have one. It is by far the best, cheapest tuning tool out there. Imagine not telling the computer your seeing that much less air flow. You can have it compensated for 680s and then your not screwing with your timing at all.

I've seen nightmares trying to tune 680s with an AFC. I think you would see a world of a difference just by being able to zero out that AFC, especially on a 11.5:1 / 11.7:1 a/f ratio.

 

[PSIcho]

what did you do to your comp housing?? I have an RS49T and was wondering if they had some issue I was unaware of

I just RTV'd it since it had a boost leak on there.

 

[PSIcho]

I would actually recommend burning a chip for an e-prom ECU if you have one. It is by far the best, cheapest tuning tool out there. Imagine not telling the computer your seeing that much less air flow. You can have it compensated for 680s and then your not screwing with your timing at all.

I've seen nightmares trying to tune 680s with an AFC. I think you would see a world of a difference just by being able to zero out that AFC, especially on a 11.5:1 / 11.7:1 a/f ratio.

I'm hoping to find a nice deal on a DSMLink right now. Anybody in CALI has one?