ECMlink first dsmlink log

[IgoVroom]

I plan to search and read first as I have very limited knowledge of what I am doing here, but here is my first log without any settings changed. Could someone please look at it and give me some suggestions?

Mods in profile should be pretty up to date. Thanks!

 

[scottsee]

Before you go off and start making WOT pulls you need to set your Idle & LTFT.

Log, and post the following values not seen in your previous log and post datalog when the car's Cooltmp has reached at least 195.


ThrotPos
TPSvolts
ISCPostion
LrndIdleAdj
IdleSW
RawThrotPos



You want the the TPS volts to show as close to .63v as passable and a RawThroPos of 32. If they are significantly off you will need to loosen up the two 8mm bolts and rotate it until you it is reached. I highly recommended log this while the engine is off. You might also need to loosen the two 10mm throttle cable adjusting bolts on the intake manny if your RawThrotPos & TpsVolts raise up past their set values when the car becomes warm. You only need to touch the Throttle cable if this happens or the TpsVolts are above 3% at idle. If it is needed, loosen and adjust while the car is running and release only a very little amount of tension. If the idle drops then you know if was needed. To make sure you haven't over tightened, or over loosened the Throttle cable you can turn the car off and stream the TpsPos. 92% is when WOT is seen, anything over that is fine, mine is at 97%. If you can't get it to 0% just go into the ECU/Logfile>TPS and adjust the offset -1 per 1%.

Your LrndIdleAdj and ISCPost should be as close to 140/30 as you can. Adjust Biss screw as needed. If you are significantly off I would advised you to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery making ecu go into learn idle mode much faster. Setting the learned idle and can take a long time (30m to 1 hour). Be patient, make minor adjustments, take for a 5 min spin and adjust accordingly.

Once you have set those values, Add:

LTFTlow
LTFTmid
MAF


And take the car on a nice long 20min cuise on the freeway maintaing a steady RPM with as little boost as possible. This will stabilize your LTFTmid. Pull over and let your car idle for at least 5 mins. That will stabilize your LTFTlow. That stuff should be covered in your Users manual. If you need to make adjustments we will go from their.

 

[scottsee]

Is your Profile up to date?

 

[IgoVroom]

Thanks for the reply, Yes the profile is up to date as I can remember.

Few questions though, according to the VFAQ adjusting the TPS usually requres a voltmeter and the throttlebody to be off of the car. So you are saying with the DSMLINK I can leave it on the car and adjust it with the engine off?

Also to adjust the idle via the BISS screw am I corect that I should select ground diagnostic under misc with dsmlink?

When I am logging these things how long do I need to keep the log running for the idle and for the LTFT's? You said go driving for 20 miniutes, do I need to log this whole time or just near the end?

When I get off work I will attempt to do all this.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Subscribe...setting fuel trims tomorrow.

 

[scottsee]

Thanks for the reply, Yes the profile is up to date as I can remember.

Few questions though, according to the VFAQ adjusting the TPS usually requires a voltmeter and the throttlebody to be off of the car. So you are saying with the DSMLINK I can leave it on the car and adjust it with the engine off?

Thats correct. Unloosen the two 8mm bolts on the TPS, twist while the car is "streaming" and adjust for RawThrotPos of 32 & TPSvolt of .63v. Using a voltmeter is a quick way of testing the fucntionalitly of your TPS. Ajusting for .9 volts when grounded and 5v while WOT. It's less work doing it with Dsmlink

Also to adjust the idle via the BISS screw am I correct that I should select ground diagnostic under misc with dsmlink?

Grounding the Diag/Timing is not needed when using the ISCPostion, LrndIdleAdj method. When adjusting the BISS keep in mind the LrndIdleAdj and ISCPostion always come up in values MUCH faster then going down. Shoot for 140/30. Agian, if your values are significantly off, reset the ecu to force the learned idle to speed up..

When I am logging these things how long do I need to keep the log running for the idle and for the LTFT's? You said go driving for 20 minutes, do I need to log this whole time or just near the end?

300sec of Freeway cruse & at least 120sec of idle. Make sure your capture the above values from my last post... You don't need to capture the log the entire time if you want. You are just getting the LTFT to stabilize so you can acquire the information you need to make adequate adjustments. Lots of people only recommended you drive on the freeway for 10mins to stabilize the LTFTmid, but some cars (including mine) do take a little longer, so I always just play it safe and log 20mins.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I just set my TPS using DSMLINK and It might have made the 800 some I spend on everything here worth it haha. It was very easy. I love this program....cant wait to get the clutch and motor mounts installed and then go tuning. Thanks for the help guys. Matt

 

[IgoVroom]

ok stupid question. When adjusting the TPS all I see is the two 8mm bolts that look like they are what's holding it to the throttle body. Is this what I am supposed to loosen? I have rawthrotpos of 33 and tpsvolts of .65v.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

ok stupid question. When adjusting the TPS all I see is the two 8mm bolts that look like they are what's holding it to the throttle body. Is this what I am supposed to loosen? I have rawthrotpos of 33 and tpsvolts of .65v.

Yes thats what you have to losen just enough to beable to turn the TPS tightly back and forth.

I could not get a rachet in there so what I did was got one of those screw drivers that is 4 pieces where you can switch to a big or small flat/philips head. Know what I mean? well anyway the rod that holds the 2 and slides in to the handle is 8mm on one side. So you strip the whole driver down to just that rod and slide it on the nut then use a set of plyers to grab it and losen. If you want pics let me know...its the only was I could get to either of the nuts with out taking off the TB. Goodluck

 

[IgoVroom]

Thanks. I know what you mean about the screwdriver thing, but what do you mean by turn the tps back and forth?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Thanks. I know what you mean about the screwdriver thing, but what do you mean by turn the tps back and forth?

If you look at the TPS you will see where the bolts go, its more of a track the TPS can rotait on so far in either direction If your TPS is set like it is now you are only going to want to go about 1mm if that clockwise. Ill try to get a good pic for you.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

See how where the bolt goes in there is space on each side? well both are like that and you can twist the whole TPS to get it where its optimum setting for your specific one is. This guy marked his with white stuff so he remembers where exactly to adjust it to if he ever takes it off.

 

[IgoVroom]

Ahh I understand now. For some reason I was thinking tightning the screws adjusted it, not moving the actual TPS. Which of course didn't make sense...it's the simple things that confuse me

Thanks!

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

no problem and only takes about 10 miuntes. Your almoat on so dont turn to far. goodluck.

 

[IgoVroom]

Ok it’s hot out right now so I got the idle the best I could for now, I know it’s still not perfect. I drove the car on the freeway for about 25 minutes and made a log of the last 5, I then pulled off into a gas station at my exit and made another log at idle.

So besides fixing the idle and tps, what else should I do?

The car seems to die whenever I try to stop. Pushing the clutch in and hitting the breaks will usually kill the engine if I don’t give it some gas at the same time. It’s done this for awhile but it’s worse now that I have been messing with the BISS. Thanks again guys for all the help.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Hey hows is your battery/alternator? My buddy is having the same problem and we notices his voltage drops really low when the light turn on or brake is pressed or basically when theres a draw on the power system. Check that.

 

[scottsee]

Couple things. I was almost positive from your bob.dat log you had a faulty 02 sensor. but it seems to be working just fine in your last 2 logs. Your AirFlowPerRev is low for your intake temp. You should expect .27 g/rev at 70F, .24 g/rev at 114F. Your LTFTlow is also significantly off. The ecu is only capable of compensating LTFT tables by +/-12.9%, so they are almost maxed. I suspect a pretty good post-MAS leak, high LTFT values are common when unmetered air is entering the system during closed loop operation. I would also do a VAC & Boost leak-down check. Do you happen to have your PCV, or Valve cover breather valve vented? Your highway.dat looks good except the same problem with your LTFTmid at 10.5%. We need to find out why your fuel trims are so off before moving on. Is your 190 rewired? When I was troubleshooting my hight LTFT I narrowed it down to my FPR being over run by my rewired stock pump. Switching to an 13109 Aeromotive FPR verified my indication. Do you have low Vac readings?

As for your Cost Fuel Cut problem, it can be caused by a few things. I need to see a log of whats going on. This sort of stalling is usually due to abnormally high airflow reading just after the throttle closes. It's typical assocated with larger pressure systems, BB Turbos, 3-4in Intakes, large FMIC's exc. The theory is when the throttle plate closes, the BOV vents back into the intake causing a higher pressure in the intake that pushes air reversed though the MAF distorting the MAF signal. These high airflow readings (.3ish g/rev when the actual airflow is around .19-20 g/rev) cause momentarily rich mixture flooding the cylinder, stalling the engine. If you had a wideband you could verify these results. I've heard people switching to blow-through setups, GM MAFT systems with 3in+ MAF have effectively eliminated this problem.

A quicker fix would be to add an offset into the Coast FC box in the TPS box. Your idle is set at 750, so I suggest adding 250 to start and going from their. The rpm you stick in that box will be added to the rpm at which fuel would be re-enabled on coast down.

There are other things that can cause/contribute to Coast stalls. We will look further into that if needed.

 

[IgoVroom]

I just did a boost leak test Friday and couldn't find any major leaks. I admit I did it in a hurry so i might have missed some small leaks. My valve cover breather is vented, it just has a little filter on it. My fuel pump isn't re-wired. I can't really afford a new fpr I was hoping to get by without one for awhile at least. What is considered a low vac reading?

What is a good easy to install and CHEAP wideband? Something I could put in the stock area that can do narrowband simulation is kind of what I’m looking for. I would also like to be able to eventually add a gauge to it, but I won't need one right away because I can use dsm link to view it right? I don't want to have to make any new holes in my exhaust. I'll try to get a log of the engine stalling later. Thanks again for the help. I am learning more everyday.

 

[scottsee]

Your valve cover breather is part of your low airflow at idle. I would suggest taking if off untill you can properly vent both your PCV an valve cover breather the correct way. Their are a slue of widbands to choose from. I have the PLXM300. Very simple... I would check for air leaks after your MAS, I don't see why else your LTFT are so off unless your pump is over pressurising your stock FPR... Can you barrow a fuel pressure gage to test the functionality of your stock regulator?

 

[IgoVroom]

I would probably have to buy one to do it. I'll try to do another boost leak test later first and spend more time on it this time, it was just too hot out the other day.

Another question though, if the LTFT's are in the positive like they are on my car, that means the ECU is adding fuel right? So to get it to zero I would want to add more fuel? But of course I can't do that with dsmlink because the global slider only goes in the negative? Or does a positive value mean it is taking away fuel? Sorry I read the manual about 20x and I am still confused. I have stock injectors so I shouldn't mess with dead time right?

Also does LTFTLow = STFT? LTFTMid= LTFT? Because I don't see a STFT like I did on my data logger, and I thought 2g's only had two fuel trim settings anyway?

I can't get my idle right either. I got it to 147/34 for awhile and then it dropped to like 150/10 after i drove it for awhile and it keeps moving. Could that mean my isc is bad? Would that explain the engine dying when I hit the breaks suddenly and push in the clutch? I bought my isc on eBay used a few weeks ago. The resistance on it tests fine, but so did my old one.

Thanks again for the help and answering my questions. If you lived locally I’d have to buy you a case of beer or something. (both of you)

 

[scottsee]

Your STFT constantly changing to maintain stoic A/F at idle. It's the little fuel adjustments used in closed loop mode before making adjustments to your LTFT tables. You can find it in the ecu/logfile>capture values. It's very passable your o2 may be dieing, or your hot wire is contaminated... That bob.dat shows inaccurate 02 readings, do you ever see abnormal 02 values like that when your logging WOT, idle, cruise? You will need to adjust the airflow sliders to manipulate the seen airflow (like Safc2) to get your LTFTlow (50hz) & LTFTmid (150hz) down once you have gone through all airleak tests. Adding airflow to the slider will bring your LTFT down and bring idle airflow up. You obviously have something else going on right now that is causing low airflow readings from the MAS.

When you adjusted your BISS was the car fully warm? After driving around did you try and re-adjusted the BISS to bring it back to 140/30? Have your tried the Coast FC box?
The IdleSw is the logged value indicating 1 (on) 0 (off) of the stepper motor. It's not a very sophisticated sensor. If your RawThrotPos values are above 36-37 the stepper motor will turn off its idle control. I don't see any indication in your logs that would lead me to suspect your ISC not working. Your LTFTmid file shows a few times when you let off the accelator and the IdleSW turning on the stepper motor right when it's suppose to.

 

[IgoVroom]

My o2 has been working as far as I have noticed all except in that one log. Once I figure out what wideband kit I want I will be ordering that anyway.

I adjusted the biss while the car was warm, i spent about 45 min on it and drove it around the block after every change because I was bored. I'll keep messing with it though, I had to adjust the throttle cable like you said in the middle of it so I may have just gave up to soon. The coast FC box just made it idle higher when I stopped slowly, but if I stopped suddenly it would still try to die on me so I just set it back to normal.

My plan right now when I get time is to check for boost leaks again and if that doesn’t work I’ll get a hold of a fuel pressure guage and check that. I will also flush the radiator to clean out sludge and hope it fix’s the high temps. When I installed the 190 the little o ring around the pump cracked on me and now the car takes awhile to start after it sits so I’ll try to get that fixed too incase it’s causing other problems as well. It might be a few days before I can get around to it but I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

[iiiwildfireiii]

Scotsee, I've given you some rep points here because I'm having nearly the EXACT same issues here (but i'm auto) and you've given some really useful information. Example: These high airflow readings (.3ish g/rev when the actual airflow is around .19-20 g/rev) cause momentarily rich mixture flooding the cylinder, stalling the engine. EXACTLY what I'm reading with my 3" intake.

Also, the stalling when coming to a sudden stop. Man, I hope this can fix my issues!

Same with my fuel trims! I'm +6.1 on LTFT Mid and +5.2 on LTFT Lo despite deadtime and global adjustments!

I'm going to try some of the things you've suggested here and see what happens. Keep the useful information coming!