Finally Dyno'd the car 409 AWHP/330AWTQ

[TheDeer]

You can see what the car has in my profile, but its got FPRed, Haltech, DIS-2, built bottom end, etc...

The car made 409 awhp, and 330 awtq. The car was running 21 psi, on pump 93 octane. I will scan the dyno sheet in when I get to a scanner (got to find someone with one first, ), the car dyno'd at turbotrix.

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

Good numbers, I wanna know why your torque split was so low? I mean you have 409 hp which is great and 330 torque which is good, but all the cars I see the torque is higher then the hp on the dyno. I guess it must be the turbo . but still good numbers
Andrew

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Make sure when you start your dyno run, you're starting it in 3rd or 4th gear at the lowest RPM you can. The slower your turbo spools, the less torque you're going to make.

Good numbers, btw

 

[TheDeer]

This car didn't run for about 9 months, then I bought it, it needed a new haltech (among other things, as you can imagine), its got a couple exhaust leaks, broken mani bolts, and I havn't totaly gone over the car. The reason it was tuned for pump, is I need to drive it until I get another car. So its not like the car is completely tuned, it still can use some more, but for now its great to drive my own car to work.

I will be tracking this car, once I get my truck, and then it will totaly be tuned and ready for E-Town.

 

[gritsak]

nice numbers man...im interested to see how it does at the track.

you gonna make the haul to the shootout?

 

[TheDeer]

nice numbers man...im interested to see how it does at the track.

you gonna make the haul to the shootout?

Thanks,

If I get the truck and my trailer by then, I will be there. Until then its just clean up and rewire time, the car came with plenty of work.

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[SpoolnTsi]

You can see what the car has in my profile, but its got FPRed, Haltech, DIS-2, built bottom end, etc...

The car made 409 awhp, and 330 awtq. The car was running 21 psi, on pump 93 octane. I will scan the dyno sheet in when I get to a scanner (got to find someone with one first, ), the car dyno'd at turbotrix.

Your sig. is so true man Anyway nice car and numbers. Bout time for some 1320 numbers isnt it

 

[kpt4321]

The slower your turbo spools, the less torque you're going to make.

As long as you have full boost by ~5000 rpm, you should make more torque than that. A FP Red spools fast enough for that...

 

[BrnOutKing]

Those are impressive HP numbers for being on an AWD Dyno.

My friend John Dyno'd at 516whp on a Dyno Jet 2 Wheel Dyno.

Then went to the AWD dyno a week or 2 later for comparison numbers and put down a low 400whp on the AWD Dyno (wanna say 408 but not possitive)

 

[TheDeer]

As long as you have full boost by ~5000 rpm, you should make more torque than that. A FP Red spools fast enough for that...

Yeah the car still has to be fine tuned, for example driving this car at anything other than full throttle (which on the street means straight to jail, ) is not a pleasant experience. hahah. I know the torque and power is not final yet, even though I am very impressed with that power at 21 psi, knowing the car isn't totally running right. I will go back to the dyno before I hit the track, cause I will either blow it up, or not be happy with the car and waste time and money in the 1320 right now.

The car does make full boost around 5K.

 

[NosLaser]

Judging by the defecit in torque I would say the car is running too lean. What does the graph look like? where is your air fuel? I'd be willing to bet if you add some fuel the torque will start to climb, as will the horsepower.

Regards,

 

[TheDeer]

Judging by the defecit in torque I would say the car is running too lean. What does the graph look like? where is your air fuel? I'd be willing to bet if you add some fuel the torque will start to climb, as will the horsepower.

Regards,

The A/F never went above 12.1 for more than a second, it was in the 10's and 11's. the entire time. I would have to get the dyno chart at home and look for the exacts throughout the band. Once I get someone with a scanner I will scan the dyno for everyone.

 

[kpt4321]

Those are impressive HP numbers for being on an AWD Dyno.

My friend John Dyno'd at 516whp on a Dyno Jet 2 Wheel Dyno.

Then went to the AWD dyno a week or 2 later for comparison numbers and put down a low 400whp on the AWD Dyno (wanna say 408 but not possitive)

You're missing something very important. There are a whole bunch of different kinds of dynos, and therefore your friend probably dyno'd on two different ones. With the same kind of dyno, switching from AWD to FWD should not cause more than a 5-8% change.

The AWD dyno was probably a dyno dynamics dyno.

 

[CanadianTalon]

What's the static compression on your motor?

 

[TheDeer]

What's the static compression on your motor?

Didn't do a comp check yet, but its on the list. There is a lot more work to do, at least I have my truck, now its just findng a trailer.

 

[CanadianTalon]

Didn't do a comp check yet, but its on the list. There is a lot more work to do, at least I have my truck, now its just findng a trailer.

I meant to say compression ratio

 

[mirage20g]

What sheetmetal intake is that?

 

[TheDeer]

What sheetmetal intake is that?

Made by turbo trix, it came on the car.

 

[TheDeer]

I meant to say compression ratio

9:1

 

[TheDeer]

I should have the dyno posted tomorrow. found someone with a scanner.

 

[TheDeer]

Finally got the damn dyno up, notice how the torque just stays flat around 330 from 5K on. Air fuel looks good also. I am going to dyno the car again on the 15th, taking it to 8K this time. Then its time for AEM and Direct Port baby.

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Any ideas on the torque, what do the brains think it should be around?

 

[NosLaser]

Your A/F is all over the board, and is WAY too lean for pump gas. Were you experiencing any sputtering on the dyno at all? Misses, anything? And something really funky is happening between 5-5500rpm. It looks as if the curve has a nice steep climb, then falls off pretty hard and doesn't climb at nearly the same rate. I'd be willing to bet that if you get the pump gas A/F around the 10.8-11.1 range you'll pick up power, and a good amount of torque. It's all really hard to tell just by looking at a graph and guessing, but that is what it looks like to me. Remember, on pump gas, the key to making power is running enough fuel so you can still have aggressive timing.

Regards,

 

[TheDeer]

Your A/F is all over the board, and is WAY too lean for pump gas. Were you experiencing any sputtering on the dyno at all? Misses, anything? And something really funky is happening between 5-5500rpm. It looks as if the curve has a nice steep climb, then falls off pretty hard and doesn't climb at nearly the same rate. I'd be willing to bet that if you get the pump gas A/F around the 10.8-11.1 range you'll pick up power, and a good amount of torque. It's all really hard to tell just by looking at a graph and guessing, but that is what it looks like to me. Remember, on pump gas, the key to making power is running enough fuel so you can still have aggressive timing.

Regards,

The car didn't sputter at all on the dyno, no misses, it actually runs very well. The curve doesn't seem like it. It was the the first time it had been really running in 9 months, I go back on the 15th, and will see how it does with the A/F down, and bump up the timing, the run was done at 21psi. Thanks for the input, BTW the car does hit full boost around 5000, so maybe it started to run out of fuel so the power curve dropped off. I will throw it more fuel from 5000 up for now. I can tell you the car doesn't like to run at all unless its full throttle, it sputters bad during start (I can tell you its probably cold start, which I will find out about).and if you try and drive at part to hold a current RPM, it will sputter like hell. All this will be addressed on the dyno, in a couple days. I do not drive the car really at all, since its not fully tuned, I just needed it to run and move so the other residents wouldn't freek out that long with that pos sitting in the same spot leaking shit. I cleaned all the wires up already, now its time for the rest.

Thanks for the input man.

 

[NosLaser]

I would definately work on getting the part throttle tables right. Even though they are seperate, there is a period of transition which will cause you problems under WOT. You always want to give the car a 'head start' so to speak to allow it to make smooth and useful power from the moment you stab the gas. I know it's hard to do since you don't drive the car often, but you'll be thankful that you did. I would try adding some fuel, and pay attention to your timing. Best case scenario, the ECU will try to add timing on it's own because the mixture is rich enough to allow it. Good luck.

Regards,

 

[TheDeer]

I would definately work on getting the part throttle tables right. Even though they are seperate, there is a period of transition which will cause you problems under WOT. You always want to give the car a 'head start' so to speak to allow it to make smooth and useful power from the moment you stab the gas. I know it's hard to do since you don't drive the car often, but you'll be thankful that you did. I would try adding some fuel, and pay attention to your timing. Best case scenario, the ECU will try to add timing on it's own because the mixture is rich enough to allow it. Good luck.

Regards,

I will see what I can get for data logging when I dyno, I will post the new Dyno after I get it done. Thanks for the help man