Finally a blown engine??

[jasoncitrano]

k guys did a cylinder leak down test today at school and found some frightening news... cylinders 1 and 2 (when cold) are leaking by 60% basically my rings are toast!! i have a 1991 awd and need to just replace the rings if possible but i will do the bearings/pistons if u guys think its nessasary. I was looking at the oil pan and can't figure out how to get it off. Does the block need to come out to do internal work? or can i get the pistons out through the top?? car is still driveable as when it heats up its fine but i need to get this done asap thanks in advance guys

 

[igopoopy]

you need to take it out
you cant compress the rings from the bottom

 

[jasoncitrano]

well obviously i wouldnt' compress the rings from the bottom i'd use a ring compressor and slide them in from the top then bolt them in from the bottom is what im asking

 

[trbotaln]

you don't need to take out the block to remove the pistons and rods. The only problem is that if you are going to be putting new rings in your car then you really want to have a good hone so the rings will seat properly. They have hones that you can do when your motor is in the car but my teacher said that they suck compared to a real torque plate hone.

 

[Defiant]

Oh god, please stop.

The pistons are wider than the space between the bearing webs. They come out only through the top.

Before you take another step, get a manual and start reading.

 

[jasoncitrano]

Defiant, what are you talking about?

I'm talking about taking the head off and pulling the oil pan off and pushing the pistons out from the top, I'm not quite sure what your talking about. I didn't want to have to pull the whole block becuase this is my daily driver and i have to only have it down for a weekend. I know I should hone it with the better ones but I'm afraid I won't have time!!

 

[90CherryTSI]

so I seriously hope with all the hope I can muster you are not daring to attempt swapping pistons/rings w/o a manual. You have to take off 1 or 2 of the lower cross member braces, then drop the transfer case (not literally please). Once this is done you can see the other 3-4 bolts that won't come off the oil pan with the transfer case on. Drop the pan, drop the strainer, unbolt the rod caps, pop the pistons out the top and viola. Check for the ridges from the pistons on the cylinder walls. Get a telescoping multimeter to measure the bore in at least 4-5 places down each cylinder. If it is out of spec, you need to have it rebored. If not, lucky you (I got lucky as mine still had some good cross hatching so I just cleaned it up) and then get a hone on a drill and follow the instructions. Make SURE you have a nice even good looking cross hatch. Make sure when you hone you have the crank covered because little metal slivers will fall down so keep it covered and keep the cylinder walls oiled lightly to help collect the shavings. clean thoroughly and do yourself a favor, swap the pistons, rings, and put in new rod bearings and get ARP rod bolts while you're at it. Buy a piston ring compressor and put on the rings then CAREFULLY I mean CAREFULLY after oiling the cylinder walls pop them back down and make sure the rod bolts dont nick the sides of the cylinders or the crank. Get new rod bearings also while you are it. From this point, put it back together like you took it apart. Hope this helps but I hope more that you're already out buying a manual if you don't have one. If you do, not sure why you're asking something that is very well outlined in the manual.

 

[jasoncitrano]

i have 60% leakage in cylinders 1 and 2, 3 and 4 were bad, but not nearly 60%. there is 122,000 original miles on the motor and all maintance and oil changes were done at 3,000 miles. checked in coolant, no bubbles when compression and CLT testing. There is some white smoke on start up and runs like there is a major boost leak somewhere but theres not!! Basically what I'm asking is how can i tell if it's the rings or not? Once the head is off then what can i do to the head to determine if thats the culprit?

What else should i look for next?!

I have done this before, just not with the block in the car. I am not the newbie mechanic. Looking for answers from people who have done this before, not just people reading the manual.