Failed inspection...

[Kod]

Well here my scenario...

Left front upper ball joint, wheel bearing, and lower control arm (didn't specify upper or lower on the control arm but guessing that it's the upper since the ball joint comes with it?)

Only wondering do you need any special tools for doing that?

Need a cheap 2 inch down pipe... nobody will just put a new flex pipe on it without charging 2 - 3 hrs of labor.. So still looking at 150 for that.

Horn isn't working either, checked the small fuse and that's fine, guessing it may be the 12v fuse in the engine compartment.

Oil leak at the turbo, this is new... hoping just maybe one of the rubber lines.

Thanks for any help.

Edit:

Something weird... lights always flickered have no idea, jumped it 2 days ago now that went away??

MPI Relay I know should be changed because every so often when going to start the car you get a buzzing noise instead of it cranking...

 

[gar187er]

Wow you need all that for inspection?!?!? thats insane. around here so long as the check engine light isnt on, and the brake power is distributed evenly, you pass.

I doubt you will find a 2" DP unless you buy a stock one from an online site, but even then it wont be cheap compared to an ebay 3" pipe; maybe hit a junk yard.

 

[Kod]

Well I have a catalytic and need to keep it ..

 

[TSicktalon]

Let me check the junkyard tomorrow and see if they have a stock dp.

 

[Kod]

Can anybody at least let me know if you need any special tools to do the ball joints on these cars?

Also, any not that bad priced full exhaust systems?

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

You'll probably need a ball joint separator. You can rent these at your local auto parts store

 

[03GS-T]

I'm not sure about a 2g but on my 3g my ball joints are pressed into the control arm. I would look into it. As its cheaper for me to buy a control arm with ball joint rarher than just the ball joint and having it pressed,

Cheers,

03GS-T

 

[Bluefire16]

Gotta love Michigan.... no inspections required Sorry to hear about the troubles

 

[Joethefallen23]

I'm not sure about a 2g but on my 3g my ball joints are pressed into the control arm. I would look into it. As its cheaper for me to buy a control arm with ball joint rarher than just the ball joint and having it pressed,

Cheers,

03GS-T

2G front lowers can't be pressed out. You have to replace the entire arm.

 

[Blu92]

Since you have a 2g you should be able to find an oem equivalent down pipe on the internet. I have a 1g and those stock downpipes are pretty rare so I just cut the flexpipe out, bought a new longer flexpipe, cleaned all the rust off where it slipped on the exhaust, put some clamps on it and drove it to my buddy's house for him to weld it. If you don't have a friend who can weld I'm sure doing the prep work will make it cheaper when you go to get it welded.

 

[Kod]

Yea I am doing the control arm with ball joint, didn't know if I would still need a separator or not.

 

[Kirkamus]

Ive got my stock converter with a full 3inch exhaust. Just had flanges put on mine.

 

[2slow4now]

If your going to replace the lower control arms just order a knuckle kit from one of the supporting vendors on here that sell OEM parts. Knukle kit numbers are mr325009 left side and mr325010 right side. About $80-100 each kit.
If you get aftermarket like dorman you will spend about $70 on one side for both lower arms and not get a new knuckle.

The upper control arm ball joint is a press fit into the arm. Basically all you need is a large socket or piece of pipe big enough to go around the ball joint but still support the control arm. I did mine with a socket and hammer on a concrete floor before I got my hydraulic press.

To get it loose from the taper fit in the knuckle just give it a whack with a hammer after you get the nut off. Use your favorite lube on all the bolts and nuts. It will help.

 

[ryztriumph]

When I replaced my ball joints I got both front lower control arms with the ball joints in them for $37 a piece at fisher auto. They had them in stock as well!

 

[Kod]

Ok so for the lower control arm with ball joint, (which I replaced 2 years ago now but didn't do myself), it's not bad as long as you buy it with the control arm I am assuming + gotta do the same bearing which really sucks without a air hammer..

Only see extremepsi has it mr325009 knuckle kit @ 129.99 and I'm assuming anything that would require press work is done? Lol

 

[Cox Abele]

If you need a stock downpipe for a FWD, pm me. I have one sitting around.

As for the ball joints, you will need a pickle fork and a socket set. It is easier to replace the entire upper arm than it is to press it out. For the uppers, pop the hood, unbolt the strut from the mount. Closer to the fenders, you'll see two more bolts sticking through the strut tower. I believe these are 17mm. Remove these two bolts and the whole knuckle/hub assembly will drop down. You can then pickle fork the upper ball joint from the knuckle. The hardest part may be removing the ball joint nut if the ball joint wants to spin in it's socket and isn't slightly frozen in the knuckle assembly.

If you are lowered, now would be a good time to install a front camber kit. It replaces those two 17mm bolt/bushings I'd previously mentioned. If you aren't lowered or don't have foreseeable camber issues, the bushings can be replaced with poly pretty easily, or if you are fine with rubber, then the whole bushing/bolt assembly can be replaced for cheap.

The lower ball joints are a bolt in affair. Again, a pickle fork comes in handy to separate the balljoint from the knuckle.

 

[boostront]

Pickle fork... Rent it for like 24 dollars or buy it for 10.... 17 mm wrench and a 17 mm socket and ratchet... 15 20 minute job... for the lower control arm anyway


Oh,, And a I think 22mm wrench for the nut on the ball joint if I'm not mistaken

 

[TX D22A]

Hammers, sockets, and pickle forks work if you aren't reusing the ball joint.

I highly recommend one of these: 3/4" Forged Ball Point Joint Separator

It's a lot easier to pop them out, and it's handy to have around for later when you need to separate joints that you don't want to replace. I don't even use my pickle fork anymore (except as a pry bar).

 

[Mello]

You can separate ball joint really quick with a hammer, 5lbs short handle sledge. One really quick whack on the knuckle where the ball joint taper goes thru and the vibration shock will rattle the joint loose. Upper control arm ball joints are replaceable. You can get the ball joints from RockAuto (Precision/Moog are USA and make OEM quality suspension parts) & AZ rent-a-tool rents the ball joint press that press both out & in. Been there, done that, got that merit badge.

 

[iiNFAMOUSCHRiS]

Well,I understand the car needs some work, but there are PLENTY of lick and stick places in PA that will pass your car without needing to fix the unncessary items.

Gotta love Michigan.... no inspections required Sorry to hear about the troubles

yeah, it's a HUGE difference here than when I lived in Pennsylvania

 

[stephen_gst]

you can rent a pickle fork like said above for your ball joints to seperate them, i bought a whole new set of control arms and ball joints for both sides and they were done yesterday, all 6 control arms and all ball joints in the kit was 150 on ebay

 

[Kod]

All that i am trying to say is, I am not separating the ball joint I am doing the whole arm with ball joint.

Just is it worth changing the knuckle at all?

 

[Mello]

You can not change the arm without separating the ball joint(s).

 

[Kod]

Ok thanks mello, so looks like im buying a a separtor.

By the way what size is the exhaust manifold stud where you just screw the nut on because evidently mine fell off...

 

[Mello]

Like I mentioned earlier, I use a short handled 5lb sledge hammer as my separator. Harbor Freight special for about 5 bucks. Separates ball joints in seconds, just don't miss. There are YouTube videos showing the hammer method if you aren't sure.